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If you’re using an inverter that has its own power, you might need to wire a lead from HVGND (the right Inverter Output pin) to GND. Pull out the two black wires from the jack of your inverter and swap them if you’re getting the symptoms above. Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for electronics and electrical engineering professionals, students, and enthusiasts.
As three answers state that it would be the safest way supplying the Arduino with regulated 5V though USB, let I should clarify my question a bit: I'd like to fit the setup within a small case, so I want to avoid plugging in a USB cable if possible.
I am planning to do the same thing, so I ask: in the end did you use the 5V pin or the USBVCC pin, or something else?
I came across a situation where my circuit works using external power, but stops working correctly with the USB hooked up.
Here's a less formal way to look at it: Providing power directly to the +5V pin is (almost) exactly what happens when the Uno is powered over USB. External regulated +5V can be supplied to the USBVCC net just as well, for example by using an USB-B cable. After comparing the answers, I think your answer matches my question best, so I've accepted your answer. That being said, supplying regulated 5 Volts to the VUSB connector (not broken out as a pin, AFAIK) should be the way to go: This is how the board is normally powered when running off an USB cable, so evidently the voltage drop is acceptable. For a simple way to power VUSB, just liberate an USB cable by cutting it open, and apply the 5 Volts across the VUSB and ground pins. Thanks for the citation, I must have overlooked it because I was looking for this on that page too.
It's part of the mosfet construction, internal, and functions as reverse voltage protection, preventing the 5V power rail from back flowing to the USBVCC. DO NOT SHORT 5V to VIN!The 5 volt regulator in any case, will be just dandy, as long as VIN is not used. But I do concur that connecting a 5V supply to the Arduino shield +5V will work, but as Passerby emphasizes, the user has to be sure not to connect that supply AND USB at the same time. From the sound of the datasheet, the regulator has internal protection diodes that should easily be able to handle the capacitive loading present on VIN (from the look of it (and screw you, net labels and non-searchable schematic), the total capacitance across VIN is 47 uF).
As such, even if all the capacitors on the board are fully discharged, the only current that will flow through the regulator's protection diodes is the current required to charge that single 47 uF capacitor. If you're really concerned, or want to be extra cautious, you can put a Schottky diode between the 5V pin and the Vin pin. You could also simply jump the Vin pin to the 5V pin, and just feed 5V into the DC-in jack. The datasheet excerpt I posted clearly says the part has an internal protection diode from the output to the input.
Another idea might be to connect a 2.2k resistor from +5v to the point labeled "CMP" which is the non inverting input to the op amp pin 3. Of course a SPST switch to turn 'off' the resistor would be nice too so you could disable this new feature. Whatever you do test to make sure it works by measuring the output of the LM358 when you connect the external +5v supply. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged arduino power-supply power voltage-regulator ldo or ask your own question. Intro: Powering Arduino with a BatteryMake your Arduino projects portable by using a battery for power.
When you are realy in such a hurry, you could attach the wires of the battery with some tape to the spots I marked in the picture. After taking a look at the schematic I would mean, that connecting the battery to VIN is save.
In the comments you asked, whether you could use an additional external diode to increase safety. Get two colored wires (black, red) and connect them to the battery, so you can immediately see whats GND.
Vin is not the correct pin, it is related to the reference Voltage of the ADC's only.I stand corrected. I've used the +5V and GND pins before which worked for me with a 5VDC power supply, but I don't think the normal voltage regulator likes being reverse powered and will eventually die from it. The Arduino VIN pin is connected after the Barrel Jack and Reverse Protection Diode, and before the 5v regulator. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged arduino power voltage or ask your own question.
Would it be rude to ask a famous professor who doesn't know me personally for a recommendation letter if I have published in a high ranking journal? Did Hillary Clinton refuse to designate Boko Haram a terrorist organisation when the FBI, CIA and the Justice Department asked?
Is there an objective answer to whether or not taking a multi-vitamin dietary supplement is beneficial to health? Ik vind Ambilight van Philips erg mooi, dus waarom koop ik niet gewoon een Philips AmbiLight TV? Laten we eerst eens kijken wat de verschillen zijn tussen de model nummers die we over het hele Internet zien rond dwalen. De meeste projecten en de meeste strip verkopers gebruiken deze model nummers een beetje door elkaar en soms is het niet helemaal duidelijk wat nu wat is, en voor we een LED strip gaan kopen moeten we natuurlij eerst weten waar we ons geld aan gaan besteden. De model nummers WS2801, WS2811 en WS2812 zijn eigenlijk niet vergelijkbaar omdat ze naar verschillende zaken refereren.
Links zien we een 5050 RGB LED, en rechts een WS2812 welke 5050 RGB LED en WS2811 controller combineert.
Jouw keuze (op dit moment) hangt sterk af van de microcontroller die je gaat gebruiken en of er een functie bibliotheek bestaat voor de strip die je wilt gaan beruiken. Arduino gebaseerde projecten werken prima met beide typen, omdat een Arduino best vlot is en real-time werkt. Op dit soort strips zie je vaak een wit blokje je voor de LED(s) gevolgd door een klein zwart blokje, een SMD weerstand. Dit zijn de strips die we willen gebruiken omdat we de kleur van iedere individuele LED kunnen aansturen. De achtergrond kleur van een strip is verkrijgbaar in verschilende kleuren (vaak wit of zwart). Deze eenheden vormen een keten waarbij de input (ingang) kant van de ene eenheid aangesloten is op de output (uitgang) kant van de volgende eenheid. Het is belangrijk om de pijltjes in de gaten te houden, als je de richting verkeerd gebruikt dan werken de LEDs NIET.
Als eerste even opletten dat een aantal fabrikanten en aanbieders de strips aanbieden met verschillende namen.
Bijvoorbeeld een WS2812 kan aangeboden worden als WS2811, en sommige verkopers trekken aandacht door alle nummers in de titel van het product te zetten. Nu dat we een WS2812 strip hebben Arduino (ik gebruik zelf een Arduino UNO voor deze toepassing).
Een strip met LEDs kan veel te veel stroom (A) trekken voor een Arduino en je kunt de Arduino hiermee dus beschadigen. Vuistregel : Iedere RGB LED eenheid kan tot 60 mA nodig hebben (3x 20 mA, een voor Rood, Groen en Blauw). Je kunt natuurlijk ook batterijen gebruiken, hoewel ik zelf liever geen batterijen gebruik. Zoals eerder vermeld trekt iedere RGB LED maximaal 60 mA, bereken dus eerst hoeveel Ampere je nodig hebt. Overcapaciteit wat Ampere betreft is aan te raden en doet het project geen kwaad, een 10A 5 Volt Voeding werkt dus prima (en blijft koeler) voor een project dat 3.6A trekt bij 5 Volt. Met de basis aansluitingen hebben we 2 situaties … de Arduino aangesloten op de computer (via USB) en de Arduino alleen staand en NIET aangesloten op de computer. Tijdens het testen en programeren hebben we de Arduino normaal gesproken verbonden met de PC via een USB kabel.
De DIN (data input) aansluiting van de LED strip gaat naar de Arduino PIN 6 met een optionele 470? weerstand. GND of Aarde gaat naar de aarde van de extra voeding (GND of de min) en naar de aarde (GND) van de Arduino.

Als we de Arduino willen laten draaien ZONDER computer dan kunnen we handig gebruik maken van de extra voeding.
GND of Aarde van de LED strip gaat naar Aarde (GND of min) van de voeding en naar de Aarde (GND) van de Arduino. Let’s deal with the problems of the various powering modes for the most famous Arduino boards, in order to overcome doubts users may have and to provide useful advices. When you want to use an Arduino board in stand-alone mode, the first problem to face is the one of how to power it, once it is disconnected from the computer’s USB port. In the premise it is good to point out that the article will deal with the powering modes of the Arduino boards operating at 5 V (UNO, MEGA, Duemilanove); a short, specific note will be dedicated to Arduino YU?N, that is still a 5 V board, but with features that are different from the other ones. Basically, in addition to the computer’s USB port, the external power sources for Arduino are: linear and switching power supplies, or having a specific USB output (that most likely is of the switching kind) and batteries of various types. Amongst the many mistakes that are made, there is surely the one of recycling power supplies kept in a drawer, and by treating them as if they were all the same. As it can be noticed from the symbols found on the respective tags, it is quite simple to distinguish the two models, even though they are physically similar.
In the course of this article we will talk about direct current only, having already clearly ruled out the alternating one for our purposes. Unregulated linear power supplies: an unregulated linear power supply always takes into account an AC transformer converting from 230 Vac to a definitely lower value (usually from 3 to 24 Vac), a diode bridge rectifier (that has the task of converting the alternating current into direct current) and an electrolytic capacitor for filter and levelling. Regulated linear power supplies: this kind of power supply is characterized by the presence of further electronic components, in comparison with unregulated models, such as a voltage regulator and other capacitors with filter and anti-self-oscillating functions. A particular type of switching power supplies is the one of mobile phone chargers; in general their usage is inadvisable since they have been designed for the exclusive purpose of recharging the battery, and thus often paying little attention to the noise filtering.
It is important to deal briefly with the problems connected with battery powering, since the need to make a circuit independent from the home electric network is not rarely felt. Identical batteries, connected in parallel (all the positive poles between them and all the negative poles between them, see in figure) keep the same nominal voltage of a single one and sum up the capacities: e.
Identical batteries, connected in series between them (the negative pole of the first one goes to the positive pole of the second one, and so on), keep the capacity of the single battery and sum up the voltages: e. Of course, it is possible to combine the two types of packs, when in need to increase both the voltage and the current. Hermetic Lead-Acid batteries are packs made up by 2 V elements that are connected in series; usually they are used alone, since they exist in various “sizes” as for voltage and capacity, but they still can be used in series or in parallel. It is quite a complex thing to create Li-Ion or LiPo battery packs (the single cells must be “balanced”) therefore it is definitely more convenient to resort to commercial products. As regards autonomy, the calculation is quite a simple one, even though the thing gets complicated in the cases of “multi voltage”; in general it is enough to operate a division between the global capacity of the battery (expressed in mAh) and the circuit power consumption (expressed in mA) so to obtain the autonomy time (expressed in hours). In these cases, the most suitable batteries are Lead-Acid ones, while NiMh or, worse, the older NiCd, suffer from the so called memory effect, thus it is better to use them until they are fully discharged to recharge them again. For the usage as buffer, the Lead-acid batteries are definitely advisable, since they can be left constantly under charge, thus lending themselves to the task. There are however recharge control circuits, very sophisticated ones, that in some cases allow some exceptions to what has been stated above. Now that we have quite a clear idea of the possible external power sources, we may see how to apply them to Arduino.
1 – USB Port: 5 V have to reach this socket (different voltages are not allowed, absolutely!), coming from a computer’s USB port, or from any power supply that is provided with a USB port (in general, they are small size power supplies, suitable to power devices that are provided with a USB cable).
3b: output from which to draw the voltage applied to the JACK socket, detracting the protection diode’s fall.
4 – 5 V socket: it is directly connected to the regulator’s output, thus the 5 V to power external loads to Arduino can be drawn from it. Therefore it is clear that if you apply the voltage to the USB port and an external source to the JACK socket at the same time, it will be this last one to power the circuit, while the USB connection will keep working for the data exchange with the computer and no longer as a power source. Having now a clearer picture on the subject of the power sources and the various inputs offered by Arduino, it is necessary to decide which of the latter should be used for each specific project. On the other hand, it is extremely dangerous not to take the voltage into account, since it has never to exceed the limits provided or allowed; for example for no reason it will be possible to apply voltages exceeding the 5 V socket even by a single Volt, since the board’s integrated circuits would burn immediately! Let’s start by remembering that you cannot pretend to power a load requiring a certain current, without the source being capable of delivering it, and that any load draws the power it needs and not the available one. In the case in which there are no peripherals requiring a voltage greater than 5 V, for example 12 V, it is needed to resort to an external power supply, applied to the JACK socket, but to understand how to draw the two voltages one must always assess the currents drawn by Arduino and the 5 V and 12 V loads. These calculations do not take into account the fall on the input diode, but are however based on a power that is greater than the advised one, thus we may consider them to be reasonable. In the previous “b” example, in which 600mA were needed, it can be well understood h now how voltages greater than 8V cannot be applied to the JACK, while in the “c” example we are definitely at the limits, even applying 7 V at the input, thus in this case we cannot think to make all the current flow through the regulator, but a different system has to be thought of; the same goes for the “e” example, while we have seen that the “d” example lends itself to the usage of a single internal power. In the previously seen examples, we verified possibilities that go beyond the limits of the internal regulator and even of Arduino’s tracks; in these cases a possible solution is the one to create an external board that makes available a series of outputs to power both Arduino and the external peripherals operating at 5 V or other voltages (typically 9 V or 12 V). In conclusion of this article, let’s leave a particular note concerning Arduino YUN, given that, even if requiring 5 V, it has a powering system that differentiates it from all the other boards. Finally, we have to keep in mind that, on the contrary of other Arduino boards, YUN cannot be powered by the 5 V pin on the lateral header. I recently purchased the EL Escudo shield for driving EL wire with a microcontroller, and woe be upon anybody who doesn’t do hours and hours of Internet research before plugging the thing in.
Using that code, the provided blink program works, although I am still having trouble getting all_on() and all_off() to work. This is hearsay from the EL Escudo page, but you can simply check with a multimeter whether you need to do this or not. If you still can’t get it to work, my advice would be to get a degree in Electrical Engineering. I want do supply it directly with a Step-Up regulated 5V rechargable battery powersource at power pin 5V. To allow USB connection and still have proper behavior, I used hot air to lift the fuse off the Uno. NCP1117's output may then become an alternative, competing power-source and this is best to be avoided.
Alternatively, a power supply that outputs a regulated voltage in this range, can be used to power an USB device (as long as it can supply enough current). For typical operations which do not involve driving high currents off the Uno, a current demand of 100 mA would result in a voltage drop of 11 mV, by a rough estimation. You can just as easily connect your 5 volt in to the USB connector, or between the USB connector and the USB PTC fuse, but that will cause you to have a 500mA limit.
A possible result of connecting both would be to damage either the USB host, the external supply, or preferably, blowing of fuse F1. This will prevent any reverse-current from flowing through the regulator (basically, this is the same as D1 in the above diagram). A multimeter can measure the resistance between 2 and GND (should be near 0 if I am right). One of my Arduino's has a little jumper link on it especialy for this purpose, being powered from USB, directly powered or through a higher voltage on the jack. I am sure you are able to wire it up, but I am also absolutely sure that you will regret it.
So be careful not to connect the wires the wrong way, because this could actually fry your Arduino. You may find it hard to insert a wire into the VIN pin socket, AND have the shield plugged in at the same time, but due to the design of the Arduino shields using pass through extended lead headers, you can plug in the 9v battery to the Wifi shield's VIN pin header and it will work for both. Deze LEDs zijn vaak erg dicht bij elkaar geplaatst zodat ons oog slechts 1 lichtje ziet waarvan de kleur bepaald is door de combinatie van de 3 LED kleuren. De bovenste strip heeft slechts 1 kleur, vaak wit, en is in verschillende kleuren verkrijgbaar. Ik heb zelf een stip succesvol met een 2A 5V voeding laten draaien maar er zijn geen garanties dat elke voeding dit kan doen. Ik heb ook voor elk een demo video toegveogd, en mocht je de indruk hebben dat de ene langzamer is dan de andere: ben gerust, beide bibliotheken werken even goed en vergelijkbaar in snelheid. Zoals gebruikelijk adviseer ik sterk om op de originele pagina te kijken omdat de bestanden op Tweaking4All verouderd kunnen zijn en alleen maar als back-up optie functie gebruikt wordt. Unfortunately, a faulty knowledge of the theme of powering sometimes leads people to make unforgivable mistakes, since the first result is often that of seeing the board go up in smoke and almost always irremediably, since from that moment it will not work any more. Let’s start immediately by making it clear that those of the alternating current kind have to be absolutely excluded (they were used a lot by the analog modems of some years ago).

In some cases, in the place of the AC abbreviation, the symbol “~” may be found, and it still means “alternating current”. We may still notice the presence of the “~” symbol on the tag, but it is clearly referred to the power supply input that, obviously, must be connected to the alternating current network. There are the so-called “multiple winding” models that have a transformer with a single primary winding for 230 Vac and many different secondary windings, and it is capable of supplying different alternating current voltages that, by means of a commutator, are connected (only one per time) to the diode bridge and to the capacitor, and therefore to the output. In the greatest majority of cases they are single voltage tools, and very reliable ones, of dimensions that are proportional to the deliverable power; the voltage is very stable (typical variations of ±0,1V in respect to the nominal value), regardless of the current (always within the limits of the nominal value). The design of these systems is much more complex than the linear ones, but recently many integrated circuits have been put on the market, and with the help of a few external components, whose values can be calculated with the help of the data-sheet, and that make their creation quite easy. Some models even incorporate the control system of the battery charge power, for example the ones for LiPo or Li-Ion batteries, thus making them totally unsuitable to power circuits that are different from the ones of a mobile phone. When deciding to resort to battery powering, the ratios between their capacity (usually expressed in mAh) and the power required by the Arduino board and the peripheral circuitry connected to it are often neglected, thus leading to results that are often disappointing (autonomy is very low or the system does not turn on at all).
As a premise it must be very clear that all the batteries that will create a “pack” must be absolutely identical and possibly coming from the same batch; in the case of alkaline batteries they must strictly be new, in the case of rechargeable batteries all of them must be either fully charged or discharged. There are, however, specific battery chargers for these models’ packs, since each cell of the pack must be charged individually.
On the other hand, they do not lend themselves for the creation of the so called “buffer” applications, that is to say, when a circuit is normally powered by the electric network and the batteries, constantly kept under charge, are used only when the power goes out (for example, in domotic installations), since they would get damaged in a very short time. Everything we will describe in this paragraph can be applied to all the kind of sources previously described, thus both power supplies and batteries. It might prove useful to power small loads, requiring a voltage higher than 5 V and equal to the one applied to the JACK socket (always considering the diode’s voltage fall). In the case voltages are not applied to the USB Port or to the JACK socket, the 5 V socket can be even used to power Arduino directly, if having an external stabilized 5 V source. The choice must obviously be made on the basis of the source available, but also on the basis of the external peripherals to be powered.
For example, if you have to power a 12 V relay, Arduino’s pin alone is not enough, but it can be used to pilot a transistor that will bring, as a conductor, the 12 V needed by the relay. Going back to the relay example, if having the availability of a model operating at 5 V, but that requires a greater power than the one delivered by one of Arduino’s pins (that cannot exceed 30-35 mA), even here the problem would be solved very well with a transistor and by drawing 5 V from this socket.
It can be clearly inferred how it can be definitely preferable to apply the lowest power possible to the regulator. There were 3 years of questions from poor customers with only a few answers, and the few answers that were there were often contradictory. Somebody else figured this out for the EL sequencer, but it wasn’t anywhere on the EL Escudo page. Bypassing might really damage U2, but as you, DimKo and Passerby say, bypassing 5V via T1 is what a USB-powered Arduino does. USB has a 500mA PTC fuse on the line, and has a p-channel mosfet, which by themselves do not offer any protection. So my only concern now how to connect the wires to the 9V jack in a stable way without soldering. What you normally should not do is provide power directly to the 5v pin, unless you are sure of what you are doing. De onderstaande strip is een multicolor strip (RGB pinnen geven dat al aan) waarbij men de kleur kan bepalen van de strip in z’n geheel.
In the figure  we can see the comparison between the two power supplies that are very similar, from a physical point of view: one operates on alternating current (AC) and the other one on direct current (DC). By measuring the behaviour of an unregulated power supply (regardless of the fact it is a single or multiple winding model) with a normal multimeter, it is possible to immediately notice how the voltage, in the absence of load, may be definitely higher than the nominal one, while in the presence of a load it proportionally decreases, depending on the current draw of the last one, decreasing even under the level of the nominal voltage.
In addition to an excellent stability, they have a very low ripple value (the residual variation of alternating current over direct current), but their performance is quite low (between 40% and 60%) since much power is dissipated by the regulator that, for this reason, may require a dissipation system that can even be quite bulky. The dimensions are very limited, because of the high efficiency of such technology (80-90%) and even the stabilization is excellent. We point out again the need to pay maximum attention to the polarities: it is very important to connect properly the positive and the negative poles to the Arduino board, otherwise there is the risk to see nothing work or even to make irreparable damages. One has to consider that, in general, regulators do not like voltages being applied to their output, but in this particular case this situation turns out to happen even when powering Arduino from the USB port, therefore we may assume that the designers judged this problem as harmless.
In figure you can see Arduino powered via the Vin socket on the left, while on the right it is powered by means of the JAPAN JACK socket and from the Vin the voltage to light a LED is drawn. As already seen, however, the USB connection may be kept for the programming of the micro or for the usage of the serial monitor. 5) on the 5 V pin, Arduino YUN has a diode (D9) that allows the current to flow only as an output. Here are my conclusions from my Internet research, and the amazing Will Byrd helped me finally get it to work. Supplying voltage via the 5V or 3.3V pins bypasses the regulator, and can damage your board.
Each option has pros and cons and the method used depends on the project the Arduino is a part of.USB Powering an Arduino from a USB is the way used by most people. May leave residue afterwards, but it should give enough contact (over the oxides formed) to work. Productie van een WS2812 is echter goedkoper, en het maken van strips is aanzienlijk eenvoudiger en ieder RGB LED gebruikt aanzienlijk minder ruimte.
These power supplies do not offer any reliability and are often even harmful for the machineries that, if absorbing little, are powered at voltages that are much higher than the required ones. The power dissipation is directly proportional both to the drop-out (the difference between input voltage at the regulator and output voltage from the same) and to the deliverable power.
On the other hand, in respect to the regulated linear models, these power supplies have high ripple levels in addition to high frequency noise, which makes them not suitable to power circuits that suffer from such residual presences on powering. One resorts to this system when the voltage of the single battery is enough to power the circuit but a greater autonomy is needed. In fact, while in some cases there are some intrinsic protections on the board, in other cases the polarity inversion might cause immediate damages!
Even in this case there is no form of protection, since both the diode and the PTC fuse are found above this socket and thus they do not have any active function. When an Arduino is connected to a computer to load code, it also provides power for testing.
Moreover, the greater is the dissipated power, the greater is the temperature reached by the regulator’s case and, consequently, the lesser is the deliverable power.
In general, they operate with a wide range of input voltages (100-240 Vac) and have dimensions that are definitely much smaller than their counterpart of the linear kind.
As in the case of the Vin socket, the voltage negative pole can be found on the board’s GND sockets.
If VIN is detected, and higher than 3.3 volts, the opamp drives the line low, disabling the mosfet, cutting the USBVCC off from the 5V line. If a project involves interaction with the USB port, in order to send or receive serial data for example, the USB is an easy, no hassle method. For such reasons the input voltage should always have a slightly higher value than the nominal one of the regulator. These power supplies are ideal for applications whose noise (ripple or high frequency) may prove harmful to the proper functioning of the circuit, typically when dealing with very low voltages.
Otherwise you would have two power sources competing on the same rail (USB and the 5 volt regulator). In general, they require an input voltage corresponding to the one of the electric network (230 Vac) or with quite a narrow range (220-240 Vac), moreover they are quite bulky. I tried this with a robot design, and it began chattering because the two drive servos were drawing too much. Accidentally fried the Vin trace from the regulator, over to the Vin header pin, when the board fell and shorted on some metal pieces.

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