How do you get rid of rats in a chicken coop,trapping rats under ice,thief ants,how do i kill fruit flies in my drain - Easy Way

Category: Pest Control Tips | 01.01.2014
Before we head right into how to get rid of these little buggers, it’s important to know some basic facts about your problem.
A pair of rats can produce up to 2,000 descendants per year, which means a couple of rats around your chicken coop can quickly lead to a rat infestation if it goes unchecked. Rats are known to be carriers of a number of horrific things such as fleas, mites, plague, salmonella, hantavirus and hemorrhagic fever.
Rats can go a longer time without water than a camel can, and they can survive a long time in water- they’ve been known to be able to tread water for three days and swim a quarter of a mile.
First off, you’ll need to take several steps to make your property as unappealing as possible to a couple of rats looking to eat, sleep, and mate. Make an effort to keep grass trim around the coop as well, don’t give those rats anywhere to hide. If your floor is wood or dirt, cover it with hardware cloth and be sure to cover corners and edges well.
If rats have chewed holes into your coop or underneath it, fill the holes with steel wool and cover them with hardware cloth. You can still compost yard trimmings, leaves, straw, and livestock poo in an open pile, but keep in mind, it’s the perfect place for a rat to nest. Rats don’t love raw eggs, they prefer for you to cook them first, but they will steal and eat them if they have nothing else to eat. Rats will chew through plastic trash bins and fatten themselves up on your garbage every night.
If the chicken feeder and fount are sitting out all night, that means there are rats eating and drinking from them all night. Figure out exactly how much food your chickens need and only feed them that amount every day.
The final step to getting rid of rats in the chicken coop is to flat-out go to war on any rats that are sticking around after the previous steps.
Rats love to travel along the edges of walls as it feels safer, so this is the best place to put your traps. Make sure you only put the bait inside the little cup, not on the plate and not anywhere around the outside of the trap.
Please be careful not to leave traps anywhere that other unsuspecting animals could get to them, such as your dog or the neighborhood cat.
If you’re willing to shell out a little more cash for a more humane method of rat extermination, try out the Rat Zapper to take care of your problem.
If you can’t handle the idea of cleaning up dead rats at all, you can always get a Havahart Trap. Another downside to poison is that over the years rats have developed immunity to many poisons, and others they’ve just learned not to eat it. Even if you do manage to get the rats to eat the poison and they do die from it, they will likely die in a very hard to reach place, such as underneath the coop or within its walls, and you’ll be reminded daily of this horrible mistake by the stench. If you do decide to use poisons, I highly suggest getting a Rat Bait Station to dispense the poison so you don’t have to worry about your chickens or any other animal accidentally getting poisoned.
One alternative to poison that many chicken keepers have found to work is to mix up corn meal with plaster of paris.
If you still have a rat problem after all of the previous steps, you need more help than I can give you. This is second on the list because it's the method I have used ever since the infestation of rats I had was brought under control.These traps are powered by battery. Here are some examples of the types of disease which can be carried by infected rats and mice. Or perhaps you have downloaded my free checklist to help you manage rodents in your chicken coop.Please - feel free to leave your comments in the box below.
We saw the first rat around our coop about a week after we moved our teenaged birds into it.
When the rats dug right around them, he spent an entire weekend rat proofing the run and coop. Our chickens have killed and eaten mice before, and if they happened to eat a freshly poisoned rat, they would die as well. We decided to try chicken feed as bait, because they obviously like it enough to spend an entire night burrowing two feet into the Earth and chewing through wood planks for it.

I do believe that these traps would be a tremendous help to anyone who’s dealing with a smaller population of rats than we were, but here in the city, more rats were replacing the dead ones every day. It wasn’t just the chicken food that was drawing rats to our backyard, but the open air compost pile as well. About a month ago i walked out to collect the eggs in my coop and came face to face with a rat. Anywhoo…thank you for linking up with The Clever Chicks- the story about your husband’s students cracked me up! Hi Vanesa, you can feel free to post an excerpt of this article on your blog with a link back to my website, but I don’t allow people to re-post an article in its entirety. Quite entertaining, Meredith, and I’m glad in the end you found a simple, common sense approach that worked! Great advice but I’ve tried all of these things already, including the bait that you can buy from the country store.
It's scattered over a number of pagesIt's long and detailedIt's not easy to remember all you need to do. As a bonus, you'll receive my free newsletter with information and scoops about backyard chickens. Chicken wire is very good for keeping chickens in - but it won't keep anything much out of your run, and it's certainly no deterrent to rats.
Ferrets may look cuddly but they will kill chickens - and their urine does not deter rodents! As a bonus, you'll also receive my free newsletters which contain the latest information about hatching, brooding and raising back yard chickens including up-to-date reviews of equipment and an "Ask Claudia Chicken"  question and answer slot.Now that's something you don't want to miss! They are also expert climbers and can access your coop or run from above if it’s not protected. You’ll need to take away their home, starve them out, and go to war on any rats that are left. If you have piles of tools, bricks, wood, or junk on your property, you can bet the rats are living in it. If you can, fold the hardware cloth where it meets the wall and staple it into the wall a few inches up as well. You can trap and poison them by the thousands, but more will come if there’s still food.
Either store your outdoor trash in a steel garbage can with a tight lid, in a garage or shed, or wait until garbage day to take it outside.
This is not only providing sustenance to the rats, but risking the health of your flock if the rats pass on their diseases and parasites through food and water. We’ve had rats steal six week old chicks right out from under their mom at night and by the time Momma hen noticed, it was too late. Not only do cats hunt and kill rats, but the scent of cats on your property will help to convince rodents not to make a home there. If a rat accidentally sets it off by eating food spilled next to the trap and doesn’t get caught in it, it will remember not to go near it again. Then of course, you have the problem of handling a live rat, and finding somewhere else for it to go.
Tunnels had been dug right underneath our fencing and into the chicken run where we kept an endless supply of delightful chicken feed for them to feast on, and boy were they feasting. He covered the entire floor of the run with chicken wire to keep them from burrowing in.  Then installed a chicken wire roof to the run, painstakingly wrapping the wire around every branch of our trumpet vine. We filled the holes with rocks and covered them with more chicken wire.  The next day they just made more.
It cost $25 to ship the stupid thing.  I was so excited to get it all set up and watch my brilliant birds use their new feeder. Poisoning rats puts the wildlife in your area at risk too, as owls and cats will readily eat a slowly moving poisoned rodent. This was not a risk we were willing to take. At first I felt like we were finally going to get rid of them for good, but this war was far from over. We either had to find a new way to get rid of the rats, or live with them for the rest of eternity. Really getting rid of any access to food was the only thing that worked for us, I hope you can get rid of yours!

When you said you saw the silhouette of a rat at night, it made me think of a terrible horror flick! Ferment your chicken feed and they won’t leave a crumb for any other creature to steal.
You may want to read this other article I wrote for backyard chicken project, it has a few more tips in it. Follow this step-by-step guide and you’ll get rid of rats for good within a few weeks! Either you’re looking at an infestation or they’re starving and so desperate for food they’ll do anything to get it. This will not eliminate every last rat, but it will help to get them out in the open and discourage them from nesting and making thousands of rat babies in and around your coop.
Get everything up off the ground and put it on shelves or hang it from walls to discourage rats from making a home there.
If your coop is made of wood or has a dirt floor, you’re likely to get rats chewing or digging their way into your coop at night. Rats are most likely to enter through corners or places where the walls meet the floor or ceiling. If you don’t want rats living in your compost you’ll have to make it as uncomfortable for them as possible. This will allow the matter to compost until it’s sufficiently broken down without rodents being able to get to it. A friend of mine was wondering why her eggs were disappearing from her nesting boxes every day and was just about to blame the chickens when she dug around in the box and found a whole nest of baby rats living there.
This doesn’t have to be a forever thing, but until you get this situation under control you have to starve the rats out in every way possible. The point of this step is to leave absolutely no trace of anything edible on your property at night.
Now, if you’re like us, and your lazy good-for-nothing cat would rather play with rats than hunt them, move onto the next step. It’s what they’re after anyway, and when we realized they had no interest in peanut butter or meat, we tried chicken feed. I know it seems like an easy fix to a big problem, but using poison to get rid of rodents could lead to bigger problems down the road. Again, this may result in rats dying in hard to reach places, but it does eliminate the possibility of your animals or wildlife getting poisoned if they find and eat the rat.
Our spaniel is driven mad by the possibility of actually catching something and it sickens me to think that i shall need to resort to professional strength poison unless you can think of anything else to try. If nothing is working for you, you may have to resort to poisons or calling an exterminator.
If you have the option to build the coop from scratch, build it up off the ground at least a foot to make it harder for rats to hide and enter the coop. When we were dealing with rats we read over and over that rats only go after cooked food in the compost. If a poisoned rodent were to die anywhere out in the open, it could be eaten by your chickens, your cat, your dog, or neighborhood wildlife.
Personally, I think treadle feeders are the key to keeping them from getting a free meal in the coop or run. The lid is made of plastic so if comes down, it won’t hurt them, but heavy enough to stay down and keep out rats and wild birds. There is something that seems to work for a lot of farmers that isn’t poison per say, but does kill the rats.
When we had a rat problem we would set ten traps per night and usually catch 2-6 rats every night.
You mix corn meal with plaster of paris, and when the rats eat it, they can’t digest it and die. It seems a bit cruel to me, but if it comes down to rats dying or your chickens dying, I’d chose the rats.

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