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Garage workbench free woodworking plans and information at, This is your woodworking search result for garage workbench free woodworking plans and information at woodworkersworkshop®. Antique Italian industrial steel and wood bakers’ work table with two wide drawers and reduced shelf.
Products 1 877 Shop a variety of prize Work Benches and Tools that are available for purchase BLACK & DECKER 30.125 Indiana 0 Drawer Wood run Bench. Are you looking at for the best piece of furniture for kids Tables and chairs that are made exceptional sized just for kids are available inwards many styles including wood.
Huge savings on this 60 woodwind instrument workbench atomic number 85 harbour This hardwood work workbench features a 60 crown and quatern store drawers from each one mat up lined to help. Inward this video series I read you how to make axerophthol solid Roubo workbench on a budget using promptly usable tone and hardware. See how to build this massive, maple workbench from start to finish in our six-part video workshop. My woodworking schedule being what it is (optional and discretionary), I just completed my first plane, a smoother made from red oak, following the directions in your book.
I made the plane body from a Tinglewood log I’ve had in my workshop for a couple of years. I was in the garage last night, practicing with my new jack plane, on a triangular scrap from its construction. I built the plane for a woodworking competition-the competition was to build a project that includes man made materials.
I purchased your book several years ago, and I have to say that it is the best book on woodworking that I have ever read.
I needed a jointer plane with lots of clearance in front of the blade to do breadboard jointing with hideglue of violin plates. I am an amateur woodworker in Boston and just wanted to let you know that your book has helped me immensely reach another level of craftsmanship.
Thank you very much for writing the book, and thank you for making it so accessible and thorough, even for less experienced woodworkers! I want to thank you for writing a book that forever changed the way I think about and approach woodworking. Only a few hours of work in and I was tuning the final wedge – I had it to a reasonably snug fit and just had to give it a go.
I recently received and read your plane making book and found it the best I have read on woodworking–along with Tage Frid.
Your book Making and Mastering Wood Planes is a treasure and sits rarely idle amongst my Krenov and native Australian tree guides. Many years ago, I received a copy of your book “Making and Mastering Wooden Planes”, as a Christmas present from my sister-in-law. Not having done any wood working for too many years I have learnt so much from making these planes.
I’m a woodworker in southern Ontario and wanted to say a quick hello and thanks for a wonderful book on making planes. Over the past few years I’ve started teaching a bit of woodworking myself and recently Lee Valley Tools here in Toronto asked me to do a seminar on planes. Aside from a little more shaping, I just completed a plane with your book and DVD, attached a picture.
I didn’t bother with a brass head on the adjusting hammer I just used maple but it works well enough.
This proved to be motivation to build a drawer unit under the bench top — another strategy I had been mulling for quite some time. I used doubled up hardware on each side as the heavy-duty rated ones where rather pricey.  They are working out nicely. Gluing the top and back went smoothly.  I approached this with some trepidation given my inexperience using hot hide glue, but it went smoothly. With the crest rail dry-fit to the posts the spacing between the posts is set so the back splat rail is cut to length and tenoned.
With the plywood template held against the front seat-rung and the torpedo level resting on the template the front assembly is angled until leveled and then clamped in place. I dry-fit the back panel with the crest and back splat rail, then drilled for the seat- and lower-rung of the back assembly, and finally glued up the back assembly. With the side-rung mortices drilled in the front and back assemblies I fit a dummy side seat-rung of correct length to each side so I could get a length measurement for the lower side-rungs.

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I really enjoy hearing from people who have found the information useful in their own woodworking journeys.  Frequently there are photos too.
I never thought I would be able to construct such a fine and useful tool with my own hands. As you know, he discusses the wooden plane and gives some basic directions on how to make one, but leaves many details as an exercise for the student.
I’m still tuning it a bit but I was really so astonished and pleased by the first shaving results that I want to honor you with my acknowledgments. I believe that the mark of an outstanding teacher is the ability to begin with a single subject, and without deviating from that subject, to impart a huge body of knowledge to the student. I greatly admire the thoroughness of your work, answering and anticipating problems at every stage, as well as the excellent photographs. My grandfather was a carpenter his whole life, and I’ve always been in awe of his hand-made brass spokeshaves, his massive collection of antique Stanley planes all fettled to perfection, and his smaller collection of wooden ones. Even if I never make a wooden plane, it will have helped me greatly in other ways too. I really hope the book makes it back into print!
Few have described woodworking techniques in such a clear, detailed, insightful fashion (and I have read hundreds of books and articles over the years).
You not only cover wood plane making but include all the necessary details on the use of the tools and materials necessary to do so. What I very much like about your book are the detailed descriptions and information that you provide on peripheral techniques required to make your plane (and do accurate woodwork in general). I was inspired by the recent death of my grandfather – at the ripe old age of 90, completely senile and with severe dementia, not even recognising his wife or daughters, he still knew his way around planes and could quote amazing facts about the planes he started out with.
I think I spent the next hour and a half making shavings for the heck of it, getting used to how wood planes handle, adjusting the blade, etc. I have plans on building several more wooden planes ranging from a smoother to some block planes. I’ll be 73 years old soon and I have a good library of wood working books and DVDS but you have done a master job. This blog has been silent for many months. Since making my first violin a little over a year ago, the majority of my woodworking time has gone into studying violin-making and making violins. Having made an instrument for one violin-playing daughter, without question I  had to build another for her violin-playing sister. I wanted the drawers to be durable and look decent but I did not want to make this into an involved project so I decided to simply miter the corners, then reinforce  them with 2-3 splines and glue plywood bottoms into rabbets to add further strength and rigidity.  I left a space between the bottom of the bench-top and the top of the drawer unit to provide a shelf and set the unit back enough to be out of the way of the bench-dogs. The drawers now hold, chisels, marking tools, saws, and all kinds of miscellanea.  I like it! When working on furniture I am seldom tempted to scrape softwoods, but it is the best way to go when smoothing the compound curves of the top and graduating its thickness to the tenth of a millimeter. Ledah was so pleased with my effort that she has chosen to play it over the other violin.  Listening to both played side by side in a large room it was clearly the more resonant and powerful violin. I locate the mortices in the back posts with the aid of a dummy armrest to indicate where the armrest should be joined. The drilling is done with the aid of a level as well and since the side-rungs are not perpendicular to the front assembly, that tilt angle is also incorporated in the drilling.
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I showed them to my wife and friends here at work, who all were dumbfounded when I told them no sandpaper was involved. I am currently finishing off my set with a jointer plane, utilizing one of your irons, made from an old growth Douglas Fir beam I salvaged from a barn I am renovating here in New England.
I love the in-depth nature of the attention paid to each subject, without going too far and getting boring. I can’t tell you how much your book has changed the way I work, and even think about the process of woodworking.
It leaves a great finish on hardwoods–no sanding needed, just a little burnishing with the shavings.

I have made a small Krenov-style plane from bits of information found on the internet, it has a steel rod holding the blade and wedge, with a Hock blade.
I ended attending Rosewood Studio in Ottawa with Ted Brown and also taking lessons from Robert Van Norman and Adrian Ferrazzutti. Trouble was, my wall-mounted tool racks sometimes became inconvenient to reach with the bench in certain positions. This challenge required upping my scraper sharpening game a bit, so  I put on my thinking cap and came up with the solution pictured here, which tells almost the entire story. It is captured in my tail-vise along with a fine grit diamond sharpening plate.  The wooden block on top of the curved scraper is attached to the scraper with very thin double sticky tape, creating a handle to maneuver the scraper easily. Whoremonger Boos JNB08 Maple Wood tiptop Stallion Work Table Galvanized Legs Adjustable Bracing 1 ace 2 Thick 48 Length x 30 Width Industrial. I’ve been using metal planes for many years in my wood working, and recently someone gave me an old antique wooden Jack plane. I was delighted to find your book at my local Woodcraft this fall, noticing the connection to Mr. Your book is in the top 3 in my woodworking library for practical, well written fun to read, helpful teaching. It truly is a treasure, and one of the best books on planes and planemaking- indeed one of the best on woodworking,that I’ve ever seen.
This book is written with a clear and understandable level but shows that the author is well versed in the art of woodworking.
Its easily the best book I have purchased so far to further my woodworking abilities – I was expecting lots of good info about building planes, but the sheer amount of information in there on the whole host of related topics just staggered me.
I have always loved handplanes, but twelve months ago, had never used a wooden plane, let alone considered making one.
Even though the iron was not fully honed (I could shave hairs, but only with some force), the wedge was not fully tuned, and the iron was cheap nasty Stanley junk without a cap iron, it cuts great. It is unfortunate that new woodworkers are unlikely to use wooden hand planes, I was taught by a cabinet maker at school. I just built my first wood plane (I bought your book in 2007) and just recently decided to start building all the different planes I will need.
Thank you so very much for making such a great instruction manual, I just made my first shavings with my first plane, I will remember this moment for the rest of my life.
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It excels at heavy shavings, and I think with some more tuning it’ll to a reasonable job of finer shavings. But I never used a wooden hand plane until recently, I am now fifty one!, using wooden planes allows you to feel the cut as you plane wood. My metal planes just don’t satisfy me and I think the wooden plane helps me connect with the wood better, if that makes sense. These were most of the comments I had read on the message boards that it was a woodworking guide of sorts.
A superb book, I will be reading it from front too back avidly and my workshop will be buzzing to the contented sound of a happy woodworker. This thing works better than my eBay special (refurb 1930’s Stanley jack that I over paid for). To draw the burr I did most of the work with the burnisher flat on the surface, followed by a very light burnishing on the edge itself to raise a slight burr.
I even took a course on plane making from a frequent contributor to Fine Woodworking magazine.
Finally, although you say that a finish is not necessary, after simply burnishing with some some shavings to soft sheen, I could not overcome the temptation the next day to stop myself from applying several coats of butcher block conditioner. Both planes work very well — particularly after I learned to sharpen the blades and to align the blades properly them in the plane body. Once I had made the 2 planes based on your book, I now understand what was wrong with the others, and I was able to correct the errors and make them into respectable planes. There are tons of books out there on how to make this or that project but few approach these projects with the philosophy, precision, clarity and detail you did.

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