Wood Speaker Stands Diy,furniture planner online free,Wood Carving Tutorials Free,4 X 4 Loft Bed Plans - You Shoud Know

07.05.2014
We listen to a lot of music in my family, there are a vast array of speakers and stereos and mp3 players in this house.
I was just about ready to cut wood at this point, so I drew up a cut sheet and got started. Anyway, I cut the wood, built the boxes, sanded the boxes, painted the boxes, built the crossovers, tweaked the crossovers, measured the responses, installed the drivers, added some polyfill the port and the terminal cup and alas I was finally done. You close your eyes and listen and you can’t really tell where the speakers are located. I know there are lots of different ways to get bass into a room but this one was simple, elegant, affordable, tune-able and in the end matched extremely well with the rest of the speakers in the system. The slight dip near the crossover freq is mainly due to the close proximity of the microphone in between the drivers which actually shows up in the PCD model as you move the listening position closer to the speaker.
Even without BSC, the speakers sound fantastic in-room, but if I were to implement it, I wouldn’t do more than 3 dB and I would shoot for a corner of about 655 Hz. For sure, don't forget some rubber pads of some sort on the top to ensure the speakers don't migrate to the floor. Sounds like you just want something to hold up your speakers (and not necessarily be a piece of furniture).
30 inches is the ideal height from the floor to the base so that the tweeters are at ear level which is critical for the highs,those stands look like car jack stands lol ,all you need to do is raise the speaker to ear level and you should be fine. As part of my upcoming speaker comparison articles (about ten pairs), I decided that I needed some decent speaker stands. We started talking and he began asking me about speaker cables, interconnects and eventually the conversation led to speaker stands.
For the platforms, I chose solid Red Oak primarily for its looks, though it is one of the stiffer woods. For the vertical riser of the stand, I wanted to add as much sand weight (damping material) as I could without throwing off it's aesthetics.


While we were at it, we sanded the PVC piping, then painted it with a Satin black to give the stands some contrast. Over all, these stands do a great job and at a far lesser cost than the commercially available ones.
As my oldest daughter’s birthday was approaching, I decided I wanted to build her a small pair of bookshelf speakers for her room. I like the fact that I could tailor the sound a little knowing what type of music will be played on these speakers. Basically if you make something anf it holds the speakers up where you want them, you good. While we were looking around the different sites at speaker stand designs, I brought him back to the TNT site and showed him the Akropolis.
We planned on getting together the weekend following Christmas to build a bunch of speaker stands. The typical speaker grille and driver(s) are black which makes the stand match really well.
I used Unibox to model the speaker response and ended up going with the Standard Design model which yields an f3 of 59 Hz in a 5.4L cabinet tuned to 56 Hz with no hump or dip in the response. Notice that these speakers do not have baffle step compensation as is evidenced in the plots below. They weigh about 70lbs each & are solid as a rock & they look alot better than 90% of the stands out there. The top and bottom plates are marble, as are the slabs in the middle, but you can substitute a dense wood or MDF. Ultimately, you want the speaker height at the mid point between the tweeter and the mid-bass (or woofer) to be at ear level.
George was trying to match his entertainment stand so he opted for the Cherry stain and I went for a nice Pecan.


Just the great craftsmanship of the woodwork throughout the room and that massive 160″ screen. I decided not to incorporate it since these speakers will almost always be backed against a wall in a very small space, I didn’t want the bass and lower-midrange region to be too aggressive. We wanted to get all of the wood sanded, square up the ends of the PVC, paint the risers and stain the wood. The type of wood in the pic is not appealing IMO, but you can choose any kind of wood you like and paint them whatever color suits your decor.
I obviously didn't do a very good job because we ended up on the Audio Advisor website looking for a pair of stands that were comparable to what I wanted to build. In the end, I found a speaker stand that was pretty similar looking and everybody seemed happy with it. I've got a bunch of bookshelf speakers sitting here for review so I took some quick measurements of the speakers and decided that an 8" square piece of oak would work quite well.
Then we tamped the sand down by picking up the stand about two or three inches and gently bashing it on the ground (vertically) about twenty times.
PVC's much lower resonant frequency coupled with sand filling as a damping material and now we're talking about a good sounding speaker stand.
Reason, we didn't want to fight to hold the AT rod in place as we assembled the rest of the stand. He was amazed that a speaker stand played so big a part in the sound of a pair of speakers. And since they are real wood, I decided not to paint them and instead finished them with a couple coats of a satin polyacrylic just to bring out the natural colors in the wood and make it look nicer.



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