Wood Floor Scraping Tools,Plans For A Desk Hutch,Doll Dresser Plans,woodworking class irving tx - Downloads 2016

Now if you are a amateur and have never done a stained floor before, and you think you are going to simply rent a floor sanding machine and sand the floor yourself, please consider this.
This way you can be sure that all the proper steps were taken to prepare your floor for the wood stain.
A well sanded floor will be a breeze to stain and finish, and this article will save you from hiring the wrong contractor. And speaking of the drum rubber, if it's too old or worn down, it may not have the cushioning effect that is needed to keep the drum riding smoothly. I have for the last 5 years used anti-vibration pulley belts on my floor sander, instead of the standard ones that come with the machine.
The drum sander is a bit trickier, if you cinch the sandpaper too tightly it will easily create a flat and chatter prone spot on the drum. On old floor I want to remove ALL the old finish, down to the clean white wood, no exceptions.
Oh, and I might add that when resanding those prefinished floors it might be best to use the zircon-alo sandpaper. On the latest generation of prefinished wood flooring these should be quite shallow and you should be able to remove the beveled edges but not take too much wood off. If I have to sand a floor at an angle, I later straighten out the sanding lines with the same somewhat worn 36-grit sandpaper still on the machine. I will fill any gaps (not holes) at this point, and it would be best to use dark filler if the floor will be darkly stained. If you want to start with 40-grit (good idea on cherry and maple) on new floors, that's fine. But on a old floor I will have to use at least 36-grit disks to remove ALL the old finish at the edge, then very carefully finish up with the 80. It is SO important to remove all these edger marks if you are intending to stain the floor with a pigmented type of stain. But when I do stair treads I can hand sand even the small vibrator sander marks out, again with a dulled 80 or 100-grit silicone carbide floor sanding paper.
Once you are sure that you have removed all the edger marks, vacuum the floor again to get rid of any stray-grits. Now, if you are simply going to clear finish (no stain) the floor, you could have skipped some of these steps.
If you are sanding a floor with the intention of applying water based finish, you will have to use the more lengthy method I described in sanding for a stain. And that fact that the water in the finish raises the grain on the first few coats, means starting out with a very smooth floor is essential.
Some parquet installers use a special flat aluminum-sanding disk on their buffer that removes these sanding lines a little quicker, but this is a rather specialized and expensive tool.
Whether the floor is parquet or strip now is the time to take a look at the floor surface in the afternoon light to see if there are any chatter marks in the floor. Let me just review one more time the drum sand-grits I always use on new or old floors in prep for a stain. You will learn how to prepare your drum sander so that it won't leave those dreadful chatter marks all over your living room floor. I do have another article on how to stain a floor, and another on how to apply polyurethane to a floor. These will show up as stripes across the grain of the boards once you stain, and by then it's too late. You have to accomplish two things with the coarse sandpaper, one is to level the prefinished floor for the first time. But if the floor is more than 300 square feet I will change to a fresh sheet of 36-grit, and just dull it a little with a piece of fine sandpaper pressed to the drum as it is running on the machine. Wood filler in any gaps will crack out eventually, and the floor will look better in the future if the filler is dark all the way through. You might at this point consider using Aluminum Oxide (ALO) sandpaper for this-grit, as the ALO-grits are a bit more rounded (than silicone carbide), so the wood will be less grooved. If you find that wax is glazing even the 36-grit edger disks, you can switch up to 24 or simply clean off the wax with naphtha, before you start sanding the floor. Learn how to use a 10" mill bastard file to sharpen a wood scraper meant for wood floors. Then you should buff the whole floor with a floor maintenance machine with a 100-grit screen on it. If your final drum sanding has revealed severe chatter marks and you spend hours with the buffer and sharp screens to take the chatters out, you may over screen the floor and cause a dished out grain effect. And if you really think you know all about how to stain a floor you need NOT get my companion article on what stains to buy and how to use them.

I may find at this point that the floor is just too thin or damaged to handle the extensive sanding process that a stained floor needs.
You will know exactly what to look for after a floor is sanded, (before you pay) so as to avoid even this contractor leaving machine marks. I can see this as the pink drum rubber is just a bit thicker on one side of the sandpaper I'm holding to the floor. Almost anything out of balance on this fast spinning machine can build up a vibration, which is then transferred to the floor. The installers of these varieties of floor rarely do any prep of the subfloor, so it will be really critical that these floors be sanded at a 30-degree angle to flatten out the entire floor surface. The V groove was just too deep, and I would have removed far too much of the wood, if I had tried to sand them out. New floors should have few if any gaps, and an older floor to be stained should be in quite good shape also, so this would be a minor filling. You may find that too light a drum tension will start to make the drum skip across the floor or create chatter marks. Don't do the edges any finer than 80 at this point as finer paper will tend to burn the floor and the paper wears out too fast.
And if you are a real perfectionist, you can sand these vibrator marks out by hand on your floor's edges also, but I rarely find this necessary.
You can see now, I have not sanded the floor too finely, but it will feel very smooth to touch, and will be really free of any coarse sanding lines. Again use a piece of fine sandpaper for this burnishing, and you will have easily (and cheaply) created a fine paper for polishing the floor.
I just saw this on a finished floor last weekend, and it was so bad that the flooring contractor, who made the mistake, was terminated from the contract, and lost about $4,000.
When pulling around that heavy floor sander, you need to think about gouging or sanding your floor unevenly, I will teach you how to make a perfectly flat floor. And it does take months of training to use a floor sander without gouging your fine wood floor. Be sure to use the silicone carbide (SiC) or for really hard finishes (or really dense wood like hickory) try the new zirconia-alo variety. On new floors I want to remove all the over wood efficiently and quickly, so this coarse 36-grit paper does it's work quite well.
On dense closed grain woods like cherry or maple you must remove all the coarse grain sanding lines. These slight marks across the whole width of the floor will show up only when you stain the floor, and by then it will be too late. The rest of the floor has been perfectly sanded with the drum sander, so I have no wide feathered edge that has to be corrected. Some really resinous woods like pine and a lot of exotic species will continually clog up the fine sandpaper on the edger and sometimes even on the big drum sander. It's quite an art to sharpen these scrapers so they pull smooth ribbons of wood off the floor.
Put the light just ahead where you are fine vibrator sanding, and after you think you are done, brush the floor edge with a horse hair hand brush, and look toward the light.
When you sand a floor past 120-grit sandpaper and then stain it, the stain may not be able to penetrate the slick surface of the wood.
In fact you will find the floor so smooth that the no final buffing of the wood will be needed. These marks will be at the minimum if you follow this advice : When you sand a parquet floor you need to change the sanding direction each time you change to a finer-grit sandpaper.
If they are really obvious, you either haven't tuned your machine properly or there is a sympathetic vibration between the machine and the floor. After you have stained the floor be sure and purchase my article on how to apply the oil modified polyurethane finish, without those annoying bubbles and pits. Then I will take any sandpaper off the drum, and place a new sheet of 60-grit sandpaper on the floor below the drum. When you have it running favoring one side this will always dictate the direction your floor machine will travel across the floor.
Smoothly sanded floors wear better, because there are no high spots (sanding ridges) to wear off first.
This saves you from having to buy a roll of this very fine sandpaper, and in my opinion will do a better job of polishing the wood. I'm sure you won't find this in any floor sanding instructions, but I have used this method for 25 years, and I get better and quicker results that most floor mechanics.
It will be an alarming mistake when the stain and one coat of finish is on, by then you have to sand the whole floor over again.

Pigment stains (the easiest to use) need the pores of the wood to lodge in, otherwise the stain color will not take.
Any sanding marks will be so fine that a clear finish (any lacquer, OMP, but not water based) will flow out smoothly.
The original floor guy could have avoided this by using the flat aluminum disk with minimal padding on the buffer.
If you want to have a beautiful wood floor, you need to know how to sand extraordinarily well. Just remember in all the small claims court cases that I have served as an expert witness, it was assumed that the floor mechanic alone had the expertise to determine if a floor could be sanded with good results. I stand on both edges of the sandpaper to keep the paper tight to a level floor (or have a trusting assistant do this), turn on the sander and lower the drum slowly down to the floor. When you wipe these stains on a floor that is too smooth, most of the color will come out too. They thicken quickly on the bottom of the finish layer after they are applied and will not fill up the fine scratch lines in a poorly sanded floor. I'm sorry I had to separate all the articles like that, but doing it one big article would have been too long a read.
For instance if the sanding drum is tilted down slightly to the left (as viewed standing behind the machine), you will always sand the floor starting on the right side of the room and work you way row by row to the left. And you may find that you have to use different colors in early and late wood, like oak, to get a good match. I commonly have to sand the newly laid hardwood floor at a 30-degree angle at first to help level the new wood. Now if you have done a good job of tuning up your floor sander, you will see almost no chatter marks in the floor. Open coat sandpapers (that are only 50-70% covered in abrasive-grits) are better for these sorts of wood. The final buffing of the floor should be done just before you are ready to stain, or else the grain might rise if the weather is humid at all. You could either try buffing the floor one more time, or you could sponge (as I described before) the whole floor with distilled water, allow it to dry over night and begin the buffing all over again. These double-sided disks will stay flat even if used with just the rubber pad that is on your wooden buffer disk. You can see that the feathered (high) edge of the drum will sand the floor last in this case and will leave less of a drum mark.
And having an edger that sands at a slower speed helps prevent the heat that causes this paper glazing on woods like pine, teak and other tropical oily woods. The buffer should be worked slowly back and forth against the grain of the floor and then using the same screen (by now quite dull) with the grain of the wood. Some floor mechanics take the extra step and hand buff the areas that the machine couldn't reach.
If they don't know that, they leave you with a poorly finished wood surface, for these less than forgiving water borne finishes. If you don't see this before you stain the floor, this will create a defect in your stain, as it will be apparent that these boards didn't get sanded.
It would be a good idea if you have a really chattered floor to use a flat metal sanding disk on your buffer. Keep the buffer handle low in this case to prevent the long swirls marks of too aggressive buffer marks. Some people claim that scraping a floor makes it more interesting to the eye or complements certain styles. There is a fine line between a beautifully scraped floor and floor that looks like an accident. If I need to scrape a floor before installation, to save time, I will do it while it is acclimating on-site.
If you do the scraping alone or with another person, it is always nice taking a break to dress the scrapers.You need to scrape the entire face of the plank. It is hard to see where you missed a spot, so to help you can stain the floor dark or wipe the wood with a damp cloth before scraping. After hand-scraping the floor, I run my buffer with two maroon pads on it just to knock off the rough spots. And, yes, I did say "hand-sand".I will write about finishing these floors in a separate post soon.

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