Tung Oil For Wood Furniture,fine woodworking jointer planer,Wooden Valet Stand Plans - Plans On 2016

12.08.2015
I love to create, whether it's furniture or just making my world or someone else' a little more beautiful. Conventional paints, stains, sealers and epoxies are some of the greatest sources of indoor chemicals - they are filled with VOCs, including formaldehyde, toluene and more1. Let's revisit some of the natural and effective finishes we have used for centuries before the days of chemical finishes. Linseed Oil and Tung Oil, the later usually cut with a Citrus Solvent, are the most widely used natural finishing oils for wood. Each oil on its own will tint the wood to a varying degree, so you should test for the look you want to achieve - you might find that you don't need a stain at all.
Non-toxic milk paint pigments can be used as a stain applied to the raw wood before finishing with oil and wax. I have used ECOS sealer on the wood in the kitchen as it is a little more durable and waterproof than hemp. If you are buying new wood-framed windows, the wood will likely have been treated with fungicides. Plywood and MDF should also be sealed with one of the above sealers if you must use it (it gives off formaldehyde).
To protect exterior wood against the elements, you could use something a little stronger (as the VOCs will not be within the building envelope) like: AFM Naturals Clear Penetrating Oil. Paula Baker-Laport's: Prescriptions for a Healthy Home has been indispensable in informing this post.
A pure or polymerized tung oil finish is easy to use and will produce beautiful results on any type of wood, inside or out.
Other types of existing finishes, such as varnish, must be removed, as tung oil is a penetrating oil. Exterior wood surfaces should be cleaned with water and a scrub brush to remove any residual stains or finishes. Providing all the desired qualities of a finish, the oil's of an unassuming nut penetrate through the surface of wood, bonding within the cellular structures to form a protective barrier. The bond becomes permanent without loosing flexibility, unlike many modern finishes this elastic nature allow a piece to expand, twist, and contract without shattering the bond of the finish - causing the well known flaking and peeling found throughout the mass production furniture industries.
Draft Format Article on Tung Oil Padding Techniques, we're developing this article to present some of our finishing practices. There is an old saying that says there is more then one way to skin a cat; ergo the methods one uses in the application of tung oil varnish vary from artist to artist.


We use the padding method to apply all our oil finishes, especially Waterlox a high-grade tung oil varnish. Shellac also raises the grain better, penetrating the wood pores deeper better then oil sealers, which do not raise grain. Let the final coat cure for the recommended 24 hours, then rub with 0000 grade steal wool between coats and you have a world-class satin finish any museum would be proud to display. The strong headachy smell of scented oils comes from their naturally occurring terpenes and or tannins, which are actually natural VOCs; for the chemically sensitive, these two strong scented oils will probably be intolerable but the smell does fade a bit with time. They do have a scent, which I would consider pleasant, but I would test for your own sensitivities (and allergies!) by buying samples from Vitacost. They all penetrate, harden and preserve wood and provide a long-lasting finish that does not turn rancid.
I don't know how long it takes to dry, but I found that it was sticky for a while and attracted dust and grime. Tung oil finishes are usually applied to unfinished wood, but they can be used over oil based stains. This finish does not build a film like varnish, so you need to do most of the sanding before any tung oil finish is applied. Remove light scratches with a light sanding and the addition of another coat of tung oil finish. Other oils attempting the same, linseed, olive, danish, etc never truly dry and although they provide some color and protection form the elements they act as dust magnets always having a damp feel to the surface. Family protected recopies for hand mixed variants of tung oil products and various dryers and solvents offer sealing, satin, and gloss finishes matched to any interior or exterior need, even marine applications. Raw Tung Oil and Danish Oil - Waterlox dries better and forms a film that's strong enough to walk on.
Linseed Oil - Waterlox provides deeper penetration to seal wood fibers beneath the surface.
Shellac - Shellac is the standard finish on Early American furniture, providing a penetrating seal and flexible finish that can be polished and refreshed for touch ups or revitalization However shellac is easily damaged by water or alcohol. However, the rules for reproductions and collectable furniture restoration are far more flexible allowing a tung oil finish option to provide a functional alternative to shellac often applied over a two thin coats of dewaxed shellac to maintain the distinct finish appearance. Preparation is a key factor; sand, or better yet scrape, the wood surface as you normally would before finishing.
Two thin coats serve to seal the piece and raise the grain of the wood as it's exposed to the solvents in the sealer.


Deep penetration and higher rise in the grain results in more sanding; but here is the kicker, shellac takes to wood like no other substance. You can use Waterlox gloss to save time with the amount of coats but will have to rub harder to take the gloss down for a proper antique satin.
A drying oil is preferable for wood floors and is defined as: an oil with an iodine number greater than 130. Application at this phase is usually bushed on, as the grain of many woods will catch the tiny fibers of a cotton pad as they rise.
It is a processed natural substance, a secretion of the tropical lac bug, an aphid like insect that sucks the sap from trees and excretes it; forming piles at the base of the trees. Clean off the wax, steel wool down the surface and apply one or two more thin coats of tung oil.
A non-drying oil will not penetrate and harden like a drying oil and will likely smell rancid with time. We at Artisans of the Valley are formally trained eighteenth furniture makers and finishers, so the "old time techniques" prevail in our shop.
With shellac, you can get your seal coats on in about an hour, while oil sealers take 24 hours to dry.
This wonderful product of nature being digested tree sap is what makes it so compatible with wood fibers. Use refined hemp oil (made for floors) as opposed to the edible oil from the grocery store. Tung oil does not change the appearance of the shellac antique look, and Waterlox's formula dries very well over shellac.
You can apply another two coats and be done with your finishing or you can use a tung oil varnish to finish.
Many formulations forced by the EPA air pollution standards act do not allow tung oils and varnishes to properly cure over a shellac sealer. The thinner the better; you will need three to six coats depending on the density of the wood.



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