Rit Dye Wood Stock,Wood Step Stools For Adults,Cherry Tree Toys Com Whirligigs,Toy Wood Plans - Tips For You

12.05.2014
Kilz2 Latex has a rougher, flatter finish and takes the Rit Liquid dye and Dye-na-flow better. The tunnel portal is wood timbers and styrene sheet primered with Kilz2 acrylic primer and stained with Dye-na-flow fabric paint. A Bachmann On30 plastic flatcar painted with flat white acrylic craft paint and stained with black Dye-na-flow fabric paint.
I picked up a WASR-10 a few weeks ago at the Oaks Gun Show in Pennsylvania and decided to refinish the Romanian wood furniture that came with the rifle.
I was woefully unprepared for just how hard removing the rifle’s butt stock would be.
So the recommended approach is to insert the screwdriver into the hole on the right, in between the front of the stock and the receiver. After whacking the stock with a rubber mallet, it eventually wiggled out enough to be able to be pulled out manually. So while the furniture has significant finish wear, it is still a good idea to bathe the stock and hand guards in acetone.
After sanding it down a little and letting the wood dry overnight, I got ready to bleach the wood the following morning.
I left the wood soaking in the solution, with the plan to pull the furniture out after an hour or so and check on it.
I think that the bleach did a good job at getting rid of the grime left behind by the acetone bath and lightening up the wood significantly.
I sat the wood furniture outside in a little bit of sun in order for the pieces to dry quicker. With the wood sanded down to my liking, I decided to start the process of staining the furniture.
As I mentioned, be sure to use a clamp on the butt stock, it makes the process a lot easier. For whatever reason, whether it was the hot temperature or the high humidity or just me rushing this entire process, after letting the wood sit overnight, I realized that it was actually sweating out the Scarlet dye I had applied first. I decided to start the polyurethane application on the hand guards since I anticipated that the butt stock (standing up vertically) would dry quicker.
After adding a thin, even coat of the poly to the hand guards, I moved on to the butt stock.


Once the first coat of polyurethane has dried, the number of subsequent coats you apply will depend on your taste and how perfect you want the wood to look. With the wood furniture refinished, the next step is to reattach the stock and hand guards to the rifle. After a few whacks with the rubber mallet, the wood furniture was reattached to the gun and I finally got to see the fruits of my labor.
Once you field strip the rifle and remove the screws connecting the stock to the receiver, the next step (advocated by many on the internet) is to use a screwdriver as a wedge to loosen the stock. On a side note, I was legitimately surprised to find a cleaning kit when I removed the metal butt plate from the stock. The acetone did a good job of removing most of the excess red finish and did an exceptional job removing the Cosmoline from inside the butt stock. I went into this whole project with the understanding that while I would love to have an absolutely pristine AK-47, I am working with imperfect laminate wood furniture. If I wanted to be a perfectionist, I could have used wood putty to fill in some of the gouges. A sponge brush (reserved for the stain), Minwax Semi-Gloss polyurethane, Minwax Red Oak stain, and Scarlet Rit dye.
I would apply the dye onto the wood with a paper towel (in order to save my $.88 sponge brush for later) and then immediately wipe away any excess dye to stop it from hardening and making the process more complicated. Notice how even just one or two coats of stain can darken the wood significantly and make the grain pop a lot more. Yea, its cheap, but the grain is pretty nice and there aren’t any large dings or gouges, so I decided to refinish instead of replacing the stock.
While few people, if any, will ever see the front of the stock, it didn’t sit right with me to gouge the wood. So I used a little plastic container and tilted it in order to submerge each piece of wood. It almost seems like it was requisite part of the manufacturing process to drag each WASR-10 stock down a Romanian gravel road before export. I decided to apply multiple layers of the liquid dye to the wood and letting it dry before I added the stain. When you finish the last coat of the Rit dye, be sure to wipe the wood clean of excess liquid and sit it out for a bit to dry.


Just remember that you might need to add a different amount of stain to the hand guards since they are rarely from the same piece of wood as the butt stock. I’ve read that the Russians used Tung Oil to finish Mosin Nagant, SKS, and AK-47 stocks.
After each coat dried, I rubbed the furniture down with a tack rag (not entirely sure if that was necessary) and on the second to last coat, I gently buffed the wood with #0000 steel wool.
I took this opportunity to sand the end of the butt stock a tiny bit in order to make it a little easier to remove it in the future. I was lucky to find a bucket with a diameter just slightly smaller than the length of the butt stock.
More often than not, if you are refinishing the wood on an AK you just bought, you’re doing so because the wood looks horrible. Just be sure to look at the samples available at Home Depot or Loew’s and remember that those samples show what it looks like if the stain is applied to a normal piece of wood. I have the feeling that these stocks were inserted into the receivers when they were still wet from finishing, because it was an ungodly tight fit. This allowed me to wedge the stock in and keep it submerged without having to hold it down.
If you go into the project understanding that your piece of wood will be imperfect, you’ll save yourself a lot of angst. I also found that as I sanded it down, I found myself sanding below the metal rivets that reinforce the wood. I set the wood pieces under a fan and in about an hour, they seemed dry enough to move to the next step.
Like the hand guards, I am going to add painters tape to the end of the stock when I begin adding the stain and polyurethane because I don’t think it would fit into the receiver if it was even a micrometer thicker. The upper hand guard (made from a different wood) was significantly more buoyant and floated at the top. I don’t think that these laminate stocks were really made with the intention of being sanded down and restored.



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