Kitchen Island Plans From Stock Cabinets,Do It Yourself Antique Furniture Restoration,Big Wood Vise Screws - Plans On 2016

This kitchen island is made from a surprisingly simple frame built around two stock cabinets, and can be sized to fit ANY base cabinets by changing only ONE measurement.
This island is built to house two 36-inch base cabinets, but can easily be modified by simply adjusting the width of the center wall. Apply glue to the ends of each stud, lay them back in place, and drive two 2?-inch wood screws through the horizontal 2x4s and into the ends of each vertical stud. Using the Board Planning Sheet below, cut a piece of plywood to the total height and width of the side wall. To create a larger nailer for installing the cabinets, place two 2×4 boards on edge against the back for the center wall, flush with its top and bottom edges. Using a block plane (the mini one I’m using cost under $10 at Home Depot) trim the edges of the end caps until they sit perfectly flush with the faces of the stiles and rails and the inside panels. To further pad the thickness of the island’s footprint, I used an additional board behind the baseboard.
To mimic the look of the surrounding cabinets, I had the paint store color-match a cabinet door.
Once the paint is dry, set all the parts back in place and use a measuring tape, framing square, and 4-foot level to adjust each piece until it sits level, plumb, and square to the remaining parts.
Clamp the parts in place, remove the cabinets, and screw through the center wall’s framing and into the side wall studs on each side. Miter both ends of the baseboard pieces that fit along the end caps on the cabinet side of the island. Turn stock boards, unfinished cabinets, and a countertop of your choice into a multifunction kitchen island.

Building a kitchen island can be pretty straightforward if you use stock cabinets for the cabinets and doors. Lightly sand the entire cabinet with 220-grit sandpaper and fill any nail holes with wood filler.
Set the island in position in your kitchen and install the base shoe to conceal any gap between the island and an uneven floor. From style to tile, find tons of inspirational photos, ideas, and how-tos for brand-new rooms, quick upgrades, and big and small fixes, plus special offers.
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When we started our kitchen remodel, this exact island was quoted to cost just over $4,000 (not including the countertop…yikes!). Using the Board Planning Sheet, cut the 2×4 boards to create the structural framing for the center and side walls. The drawing below shows the center wall from the backside so you can more clearly see the 2×4 padding placement. Either set the cabinets in place, and then position the walls around them, or stand the walls in place, and then slide the cabinets into the opening. Depending of the overlay of your cabinets, use a handsaw to notch the top edge of the baseboard so that the cabinet can open without obstruction. And yes, we made the island 34?” tall and installed a 1? inch-thick countertop to create a working height of 36 inches.

Apply glue to the back of the cabinet and to the edge of the face frame that fits behind the corner stiles and against the ends. These spacers support a panel (K) centered vertically in an end opening while you glue and nail it in place. This includes sanding a 10-foot-long piece of base shoe that will be installed after the project is installed in your kitchen.
Secure each stile in place tight between the rails and pressed against the edge of the adjacent end cap.
Using a framing square, ensure that the side walls are square to the center wall, and they fit tight to the cabinets. The slight overhang of the corner stile will conceal any gap between the cabinet and the side of the island. This will allow the shelves and cabinet to be painted separately and the shelves to be installed later.
When securing the top portion of the end to the back, verify that the back is standing vertical and not bowed, this may cause the cabinets to not fit properly.
On the stool side, cut a piece to the width of end cap leaving a 45-degree miter on both ends. Using a nail gun and 1 inch finish nails, secure the cabinets’ toekick against the back of the recessed foot of each cabinet.

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