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This site answers questions related to home electrical wiring, home wiring, general electrical help,and other electrical questions related to aleternating current (AC). 3w MR16 Low voltage Bathroom and Shower fire rated downlight, IP65 suitable for Zone 1, recessed down light with Twist and lock bezel front face and easy changing bulb holder, suitable for halogen. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. I want to run most of my lighting on one separate circuit from the main panel for the upstairs. So the circuit will be main panel, light with a switch, a light with a switch, then 2 lights operated by a switch, then 2 lights operated by a switch and a fan operated by a timer switch, then a light with a switch, then a light with a switch, and finally back to the main panel. Thanks, I get this part but how about connecting a second light to that switch and then sending power to the next light with a switch in the circuit without having the first switch sever the power supply. I'm not sure I understand your question but if you follow the diagram for 2011 NEC switch loop I added to my post you can run other switched lights from the switch box. I think the diagram I found online shows what I want to do but I am not sure how to wire in the fan with a seperate timer switch.

One question, though: What is the small red rectangle rectangle just above and to the left of the light switch. BTW, I just gotta point out that none of this would meet the current code requirements here in the states. Should I run 14-3 wire for the light switch and another 14-3 wire for the fan switch to bring it up to code for your neck of the woods.
I would just not use the red wire on the light switch and wire nut it off and set it aside.
No, I'm saying that any device that requires a complete circuit will not work in any of your switch boxes.
Some timers draw a slight trickle current through the light and don't use a neutral but the only work with incandescent and halogen bulbs. If you use a 3-conductor cable for the switch loop you can comply with NEC 2011 and still bring power to the light first. I purchased a unit that is rated for use above the shower but it needs to be installed on a GFCI circuit.

How would I wire in a fan light combo for the light that is located at the splices that run to the switch. Here we now have to provide a neutral in every switch box so that any dimmer, timer, motion sensor or other control device that needs one will have it there. One advantage to bringing power to the switch though is no need for more expensive 3-conductor cable. I was thinking I would install a blank GFCI in the bathroom and was hoping that I could get some advice on how my new wiring configuration would look? I can`t see where I would need 14-3 as there will be no need to run power to anything else.
These are controlled by a 3 gang switch in the hall outside the bathroom(3rd switch is for hall light).

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