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19.05.2015

Verify the plug connection in switch housing is securely fastened and all color-coded cables are aligned. If you are using a remote control, check that the batteries are installed properly and are not dead. If you’re using a wall control, check the power to the breaker from your control and try working your ceiling fan manually.
If your ceiling fan is located in a damp or wet environment, confirm the fan and outlet box is UL rated for that environment. If your ceiling fan wobbles or shakes, it may be due to several factors such as bent blade brackets, loose screws, or dusty or warped fan blades. Tighten any loose screws on the light kit, fan blades, motor coupling, downrod, and mounting hardware. Confirm the outlet box is ceiling fan-rated and designed to support the ceiling fan's weight. Many people find the gentle whooshing of a ceiling fan soothing; however, anything louder can be a sign of a serious problem. Locate and tighten any loose screws on lower switch housing, blade holders, motor coupling, and downrod.
Verify the wire connections are not rattling against each other or the interior wall of the switch housing. If your ceiling fan's speed settings are not working properly, you may notice a sharp change in the airflow. Verify the wires in canopy and switch housing are wired properly and secured with wire nuts. If you are using a remote or wall control to operate the light kit, confirm the dip switches on the receiver and control are set to the same frequency. If you've attempted to reverse your ceiling fan for the winter, but noticed no change in the direction of the fan blades, there could be several causes.
If you are using a remote or wall control to reverse the ceiling fan, confirm the dip switches on the control and receiver are set to the same frequency.
If your ceiling fan and light kit turn on and off by themselves, don't be alarmed as this is more common than you may think. Verify the ceiling fan is suspended to hang between 7-8 feet from the floor so the air is reaching the ground.
Consider using a longer downrod that allows the ceiling fan to hang at least eight - nine feet from the floor.
If you have an older ceiling fan, turn it off for a few minutes and then carefully touch the base to see if it's hot. Pat Venier I have a 25 yr old Dynasty fan that was in a bedroom and was literally soundless, all I could ever hear was the air.
I changed a light in a ceiling fan(has four lights) and I used the wrong type of replacement bulb and it blew all 4 of the lights?? If one or more fan speeds are not working, it may be time to replace the ceiling fan motor capacitor. Deborah Mauldin Del Mar Fans & LightingWELL I AM NO ROCKET SCIENTIST, BUT I KNOW I AM NOT STUPID. Unfortunately, we don't know of any local retailers in Mar Del Plata that sell ceiling fan capacitors. Lisa Mckinney I Changed the direction switch and turned fan on, it made a pop sound and hasnt worked since, i replaced the speed switch and capacitor and still nothing, whats next? We’re sorry to hear you’re having trouble with your ceiling fan and will help as best we can. If there is a reverse switch, ensure the switch is in the correct position – being in between the two positions may not allow power to pass.
Ceiling fans are made with precision, if the bushing are worn out the motor could be stuck to the side of the motor housing when the fan is turned on.
I understand hearing unknown noises is scary when it comes to electronics and hope I can be helpful. It’s great that you have changed a few of the electrical components, but from what you have described it seems to be the reverse switch that went bad. If when the reverse switch is in the correct position and there isn’t power running through it the motor won’t receive the power needed to run. Samantha Jane Field My ceiling fan and light work but when I try to turn the light off to keep just the fan going, the pull switch doesn't turn the light off, can't even pull it til it clicks. Electric ceiling fan motors create an electromagnetic field when power is pushed through them.
Kelly Prochniak Thole We replaced the switch for the lights on the ceiling fan and you hear it click but it doesn't shut off the lights. 4) If the capacitor(small black box located inside the housing) appears to be melted or smells burnt.
If the pull chain was turning the lights on and off prior to it breaking and being replaced the wiring should be an exact replacement. A common misconception about ceiling fans is that they cool the room when actually they only cool the people that are in the room.
Meiling Lanfur As I was trying to untangle the light string from around the middle part of the ceiling fan the blades hit my hand and the fan just stopped spinning ?? Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Meiling, There are many electrical components that allow a ceiling fan to operate as it's intended.
Roger Newman I installed a DC fan earlier this year, it worked OK for a few months then quit. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Gloria, If there is trouble with the ceiling fan motor, your best option will be to contact the manufacturer. Steve Carlo We had a ceiling fan which worked fine until a loosened the housing so we could paint the ceiling. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Steve, The issue could be as simple as the reverse switch that hasn't been pushes all of the way to one side. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Steve, The issue could be as simple as the reverse switch not being pushed all of the way to one side.
Mary Montgomery Have 2 animation fans and neither one spins very fast on even the highest speed. Janine N James Lewis Just installed a new 3 speed fan with light, everything works fine until you put the speed to 3 and the light goes out, any thought? Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hello Janine, With issues regarding the product you are going to want to contact the manufacturer’s tech support which if you can figure out who made your fan we can provide you the number to get in contact. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Joanne, The pull chains, on most ceiling fans, have replacements available through the manufacturer. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Alan, Both fans losing power at the same time leads me to believe it's a power issue and not the fans themselves. Dick Bridy I was cleaning the fan, light covers, and a light bulb blew and tripped several circuit breakers.
Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Leonard, If the lights have new bulbs in them and the remote is not turning them on try pulling the chain. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hey Tommy, If neither the ceiling fan nor the lights are working it's an issue with the unit getting power. Mike DaBomb I have Hampton fan , that I control with a remote, in which only the low speed has failed. Del Mar Fans & Lighting Hi Mike, With only one speed haing an issue I would have to say a bad capacitor is your issue. Dawn Hamby Barker Good morning, do you know what would cause the fan motor to rotate when the fan is turned on high speed? Sign up today for our FREE e-mail newsletters and get helpful tips and timely article links delivered to your e-mail inbox. Dozens of ideas, loads of how-tos, and the latest advice on the projects and products you need to improve your home today, plus special offers. From style to tile, find tons of inspirational photos, ideas, and how-tos for brand-new rooms, quick upgrades, and big and small fixes, plus special offers.
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For these reasons and more, one should not carry out safety critical work based solely on wiki content.
Anyone installing wiring should also understand some basic safety issues not discussed here. Junction box loop in, where the termination and feed connection are done at junction boxes, and cables run to switches and lamps from there. Split load CUs have become popular in recent years, and ubiquitous since 2008 with the introduction of the 17th edition of the wiring regs.
Some wiring work can be carried out with just a section of a CU turned off, perhaps retaining access to light and power while working. The split load arrangement means both RCDed and non RCDed loads can be supplied from the one CU. The 17th Edition of the wiring regulations impose more frequent requirements to install RCD (or RCBO) protection than the previous 16th Edition.
RCDs reduce the risks of injury from electric shock (they don't eliminate it completely), however they can also introduce reliability and issues of their own if not used in an appropriate way.
With a supplier provided earth connection, the most common historical arrangement was a split CU with a RCD on one side, and no RCD on the other.
With a local earth rod, the situation is different in that all circuits must be RCD protected, since a local earth rod is not usually a sufficiently good earth on its own to clear all earth faults.
Where RCBOs are used, they are fitted in the non-RCD side of the CU, and supply circuits needing RCD protection.
Neutrals for circuits protected by different RCDs (or those from an RCD and non RCD protected circuit) must not be mixed. The same principle is true for RCBOs, each RCBOed circuit needs to have its neutral connected to the RCBO neutral and not elsewhere. Historically, installations using a supplier earth connection will run some circuits directly off the non RCD side of a CU. All socket circuits, should have RCD protection since Plug-in are the source of almost all electrocutions. Modern installations will typically provide additional RCDs so that vulnerable circuits (i.e. One ring circuit per floor is a fairly common arrangement, but by no means the only option. Spurs are permitted, but sockets should be included in the ring rather than spurred wherever practical.
Spurring sockets prevents the easy later addition of more sockets in some positions, as a spur may not be spurred off a spur. Recommended: 2x double sockets at each of 4 locations (in or near corners) + a double socket at side of single bed, or a double socket at each side of double bed. Recommended: 2x double sockets at each of 4 locations (in or near corners) + 1-3 double sockets where PC or AV equipment is to be used.
Recommended: 2x double sockets at each of 4 locations (generally near corners), plus anything from 2 to 6 double sockets where computer or other business appliances will go. Filament lamp failures can trip MCBs, so fuses have an advantage over MCBs for lighting circuits, as they rarely nuisance trip on bulb failure. With loop-in wiring, the cable from the ceiling rose to the switch has 3 conductors, namely earth, unswitched live and switched live. So beware, if you take down a rose without paying attention to which wire is which, and you re-connect all the blacks or blues together, your fuse or MCB will trip. The permanent lives and switched lives of the circuit use the single core and earth cable (type 6241Y). This run starts from the MCB and loops between the lightswitches to provide a permanent live and earth to the lightswitches. The neutral cable is a double sheathed cable (6181Y with a blue inner sheath) that runs from the CU neutral busbar and from light fitting to light fitting (there will only be one neutral at the end of the circuit).
It makes it easier to put light fittings up as there are less cables to mess with at the fitting.
Two way switching means having two or more switches in different locations to control one lamp.
In some older properties (typically wired in or before the mid 1960s), its not uncommon to find lighting circuits without an earth wire.
Bathrooms (or rooms with showers) are "special locations" in the language of the wiring regulations.
Electrical fittings in the bathroom in zone 0 must conform to IPX7 or better, and must be of an extra low voltage type. Electrical fittings in the bathroom outside of the zones do not need to confirm to any specific IP rating, but must be appropriate for the circumstance in which they are used. Until the introduction of the 17th edition of the wiring regulation, sockets were not permitted in a bathroom at all, unless they were either a transformer isolated shaver socket, or sockets to power extra low voltage devices, both of which are permitted in Zone 2 or outside.


An electric shower will be fed on its own high current cable, fed from its own MCB on the RCD protected side of the CU. Modern kitchens often have a high concentration of electric appliances, many of them high power consumption devices.
All in one electric cookers (oven, hob & grill in one unit) are fed by a high current cable from the CU, typically on a 32A MCB.
Complete rewires and a number of other electrical jobs are now covered by Part P of the building regulations.
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running.
We've compiled our best ceiling fan troubleshooting tips to help you identify and fix the most common ceiling fan problems.
Loosen the canopy, check all the wire connections are correctly assembled and secured with wire nuts.
While damp-rated and wet-rated ceiling fans can be installed indoors, dry-rated fans should not be installed outdoors as these fans are not equipped to withstand moisture or direct contact with water. If the issue is not resolved, contact your ceiling fan manufacturer and explain the problem as this is most likely an issue with the specific model. If the outlet box is installed directly to the ceiling, this could cause wobbling and eventually damage the ceiling. If the fan blades are cracked, replace the damaged blades with a new blade set from the same brand as your ceiling fan to ensure compatibility. This can cause the light bulb to flatten a small tab in the light sockets interior, causing the socket to fail and preventing ceiling fan from powering the light. Some ceiling fans are equipped with a wattage limiting device, which disables the fan's light kit.
Turn off the ceiling fan and allow the blades to come to a full stop before flipping the switch.
So if your neighbors recently purchased a new fan, they could very well be controlling yours.
If the ceiling fan is still inoperable after replacing the switch, you will want to examine the wire connections in the fan housing to confirm they are not loose or disconnected. Fans vibrate when operating and if the light bulbs are loose, the lights may flash on and off. I moved the fan to a different bedroom & now the motor kinda has a hum to it which was not there before it was moved.
Your ceiling fan could be wobbling because it's out of balance, which can be caused by dusty fan blades or bent blade brackets. If your ceiling fan is running slow on all speeds, we recommend replacing the capacitor on the fan.
If your light kit is spinning, but the fan blades are not, this could indicate a faulty wiring issue. You can purchase a motor capacitor at your local home improvement store and replace it yourself.
One fan remote can affect multiple ceiling fans if they're all set to the same frequency, generally the factory default. It's possible that the bushings in your ceiling fan have gone bad and the magnetic pull created is causing the motor to stick to the metal motor housing. Now the only button working is the power button that turns on and off the fan and light at the same time. The cool, stagnant air begins to circulate when the ceiling fan turns on and your sweat begins to evaporate giving you a cooling sensation. Calderon My celling fan the fan part is not working change switch towice, maybe is the wiring.
Replaced 2 bulbs and all of the other room lights on the breaker work, but not the fan - help. This article is an introductory overview rather than a complete A to Z on rewiring, and assumes some basic electrical knowledge. Sometimes these are run from the main CU, but often from a timeswitch controlled dedicated CU (with either a separate "off peak" electricity meter, or a dual tariff meter). It works in co-ordination with circuit breakers MCBs, Fuses, and RCDs to ensure that an electrical supply can be disconnected quickly in the event of a fault.
Those that don't (generally country houses several miles from the nearest town), use a local earth rod instead. Each electrical circuit in the house takes its earth connection from the CU earthing block. In general, ANY cable which is buried less than 50mm below a wall's surface AND is NOT mechanically protected, or wired in one of a number of specialised cable types that incorporate an earthed screen must have 30mA trip RCD protection. Generally the RCD side is used to supply sockets and shower, with most other items on the non-RCD side. RCBOs allow individual circuits to be protected by their own RCD without any risk that a fault in an unrelated circuit could cause it to trip.
Mostly rings are used, as they use less copper for most circuit layouts, they have safety advantages over radial circuits (sometimes debated), can provide more power, and cover more floor area per circuit.
These use a ring of cable (ie a loop), so that at the CU 2 cables are connected to the MCB instead of 1. Spurs also prevent the addition of more sockets at existing spurred positions, whereas a practically unlimited number of sockets can be added where a socket is in the ring. These use a single cable from CU to socket, then a single cable to the next socket along the line etc.
Recommended numbers are inevitably a matter of opinion, and are only recommended as a starting point for consideration.
1 socket somewhere out of easy reach in zone 3 if you wish to use an appliance in the bathroom (eg washing machine or dehumidifier). Given the tendency for electricity use to rise over the years, an overrated feed cable may prove useful in time. For a dedicated horticulturalist, fluorescent lighting, a couple of splashproof double sockets positioned at head height or above, and a 13A socket for discharge lighting can all come in useful. If it goes to the bulbholder, this is called loop-in wiring, and the ceiling rose then uses four sets of connections instead of 3, the extra one being a switched live.
Regs conformance requires that brown sleeving be fitted over the neutral coloured conductor at each end of the switch cable since it is being used as a live. Light switches are usually wired with standard T&E, which means the switched live wire will be black (existing installs) or blue (new installs) - this should be marked with live coloured tape or sleeving (though alas this is often missing). Care should be taken if you have such a circuit to ensure that only appropriate light fittings and switches are used. Usually this is a 6A MCB, but lighting is less likely to cause problems if run on a 5A fuse.
This is because they are places where people are particularly vulnerable to serious injury from electric shock (due to being wet and barefoot). If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate. As always, use caution when working on your ceiling fan and turn the power off at the circuit breaker box to prevent any injuries. If so, turn the power off and replace the light bulb, keeping the wattage under the recommended watts. Oddly enough, the BASE spins and whips the pulley chains against each other and the glass where the bulbs are located. The way you want to control your fan(pull chain, remote, always on, etc.) determines the correct wiring connections. A common option is to have the supply fed through a 100mA time delayed RCD, the output of which goes to a split CU with RCD on one side. Its also common to have a ring dedicated just for sockets in the kitchen since that is where you will find many of the highest power consuming appliances in a modern house. Bear in mind the number of sockets wanted has risen greatly over the years, and can only be expected to rise further.
Radials use more copper on most circuits, though less cable on physically long narrow shaped circuits. A shaver socket at the sink is an option, but plugging items in outside the room is probably better practice.
Most metal light fittings and switches will require earthing, but those marked with the double insulated symbol do not need an earth connection. Ideally the non-earthed circuit ought to be re-wired, or at least have a RCD installed to protect it. Exterior cabling must be appropriate for use outside (many cable types degrade under prolonged exposure to sunlight for example).
Connection is also made to each of the protective earth wires in each circuit that feeds an appliance in the bathroom (e.g. Most hobs require their own high current feed, but some are available that incorporate load limiting switching, and are designed to be run on a 13A plug. Ceiling fans include limiters that cut off the power when the light kit consumes too much power. Since you’ve moved the ceiling fan from one bedroom to another, verify that all the screws on the canopy, downrod, motor housing and fan blades are secure. If it is, the fan may be defective and you should return the fan to the store where you purchased it for replacement.
If the wobbling continues, next, check for bent blade brackets and gently bend the blade bracket(s) back into place.
Make sure the wattage does not exceed the manufacturer's recommendation, and do not over tighten the bulbs. Replacing the fan capacitor is a relatively easy and inexpensive fix, but if you’re unsure of where to start, we recommend hiring a licensed professional. One way to go about solving this and preventing it from happening again would be to install a ceiling fan remote. If the motor itself isn't working(ther's sound, from electricity, but no movement) your next step would be contacting the manufacturer to see about specific troubleshooting. This is not an ideal arrangement, as a large earth leakage fault on the non-RCD side will cause complete power failure, and sometimes inability to reset the power. However if the area served is large, more 5A or 6A circuits would in most cases be preferable.
To ensure that your ceiling fan will work for years to come purchase a Minka Aire ceiling fan. Check the owner’s manual for the wattage limit and verify that the bulbs do not exceed the manufacturer’s limit. If the sockets are damaged, we recommend replacing the light sockets or the light kit altogether. Replacing the bushings and ensuring that the ceiling fan is installed correctly in relation to the slope of your ceiling may solve your problem. A wireless remote allows you to control both the lights and the fan speed separately without having to pull the string every time. This is called equipotential bonding and is designed to minimise exposure to dangerous voltages that may be present during electrical fault conditions. Most ceiling fans include a balancing kit in the original packaging, but you could purchase one from your local home improvement store.
Many of the new wireless remotes are even available as phone apps, so you'll always have control.
The switch connections are push in so I cannot short anything without cutting and stripping wires. It is permitted to place equipotential bonding connections immediately outside the bathroom if necessary. Note equipotential bonding can be omitted if all the circuits that enter the bathroom are protected by RCD(s) with trip thresholds of 30mA or less. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control.
The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments.
This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below. Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11).
It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge.
They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult. When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan.
Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14).
Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem.


If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad.
Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor. They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one. The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core.
Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment. You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment. Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws. This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer.
Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis. If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it. There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19).
Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern. Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator. Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem. If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem.
The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle. If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker.
This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements. Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized.
Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time.
Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door.
Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal.
It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under.
Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights. For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes. Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion.
The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2. The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end. The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much. If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater. The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature. In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer. The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad.
If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat. Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils.
Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings. If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man.
DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems.
The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work.
If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees.
With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice. In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord. Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers. If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat. Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes.
Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater. Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place.
The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work. The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker.
However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4. Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head. Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head.
The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head. Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head. Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY. If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat.
Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully.
If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism.
However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly.
Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow.
Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate.
Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book.
If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer. Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat. The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater. These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer.
Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps. Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad. Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad.
Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system. Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point. UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch.
If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT.
I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis. Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which. These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty. COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective. To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb.
The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.



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