Ceiling fan light dimmer switch wiring basics,casablanca bedroom ceiling fans 2014,ceiling fan design singapore magazine - Step 2

10.09.2015

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. If I get one that says it's not dimmable will it work on my dimmer but just come on full power? There are fans with remote controls that require only two wires but they can not be used on a circuit controlled by a dimer. If you only have two wires from the wall to the ceiling, you can't control a ceiling fan, the light on the ceiling fan, and some regular ceiling lights without using remote controls. Based on your diagram it looks like you could reconfigure the wiring so that the fans are not controlled by the dimmer. Turning Safe Search OFF may display content intended for mature audiences.You must be at least 18 years old to continue. Please enter at least one email addressYou are trying to send out more invites than you have remaining. The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom.
This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain.
Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch. Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area.
As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction. I want to use the light independently of the ceiling fan, and assume I need to remove the 3-way switch labeled A and replace it with a single-pole switch. I'm new to DIY home electrical, but I've successfully replaced a dimmer switch and added a timer switch to the bathroom fan. Perhaps an electrician will correct me, but it doesn't sound like what you want to do is possible without running a new set of wires from one switch to the light and then rewiring the fan completely.
The light and fan are wired together in series and they need to be wired in parallel for your setup to work. This is unlikely, but they are both on the same run of wiring, so without getting into the ceiling and adding wire there's no way1 to control them independently— there's only one set of wires going up there, and the power to that set of wires can only be on or off. An electrician can re-use the wires you have already, Your two that you want as three ways will need one less wire and the 4th, extra wire can be used just for your single switch to the light.
If the light and fan are on the same run, and all the switches are up-circuit of those, you're pretty much going to have to run wire. Without having a wiring diagram of the switching circuit (IE: I'd have to know what wires go where at each of the three switches and the ceiling fan) you can't tell for sure but it is likely that you can't do this with existing wire. Ask MetaFilter is a question and answer site that covers nearly any question on earth, where members help each other solve problems. The wiring diagrams on this page make use of 4 way switches, between two 3 way switches, to control lights from three or more locations.
In this basic 4 way light circuit the source is at the first switch and the hot connects to the common on that switch. This diagram illustrates wiring for a 4 way circuit with the electrical source at the light fixture and the switches coming after.
Here two 4 way and two 3 way switches are used to control lights from four different locations. In this diagram the source is at SW1 and the hot is connected to the common terminal there. In order for a 4 way circuit to work, the 3 way switches must be wired properly at the the beginning and end of the path. For a 4-way light circuit to work, you need two 3-way switches and at least one 4-way switch. You can have as many 4-way switches as you like in a circuit to control lights from as many locations or entries into a room as you need. In any event you can, and most likely will have to, use regular (incandescent) lamps to match existing. You might be able to add universal remote control dimers to the ceiling lights and bypass the existing dimmer all together. Your best option might be to install home automation controls such as those made by X10 and Insteon.


Maybe there was originally a rheostat in there and didn't the old ones used to need lots of room?
Standard rheostat home lighting controls have been made to fit in single-gang or 2-gang switch boxes since well before your house was built. What I'm hoping is power comes in there and all of the outlets (ceiling boxes) feed from there. Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain. These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches. The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box. The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source.
The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing. Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter.
If it matters, I just looked at Switch B, which as four wires and nothing labled on the switch. A 4-way dimmer diagram is included as well as an arrangement to control the lights from four different points. Three-wire cable runs between all the switches and the traveler wires are connected between the two 3-ways and the 4-way. Two-wire cable is run from the light to SW1 and 3-wire cable runs between all the switches. To make this circuit work, a 3 way dimmer is used in place of one or both of the standard 3 way switches. Three-wire cable runs between the switches and 2-wire cable runs from the dimmer to the light fixture. If you've wired a new switch correctly and the circuit still doesn't work, the switch may be defective. A 4 way has five connections: one ground, and 4 circuit terminals divided into two matching pairs. So be sure that the common terminal on one of the 3 ways is wired to the hot source, and the common on the second 3 way is wired to the the hot terminal on the lights. If you want more than three locations to control the lights, you will need a 4-way switch for each of those extra locations. Connect the hot wire from the source to the common terminal on the first 3-way and the hot wire to the lights to the common on the other 3-way.
To make it work, you just have to place all the 4-ways between the two 3-way switches in the circuit.
Connect the hot source to the common terminal on the first 3-way and the hot wire from the lights to the common terminal on the second 3-way. They can be on speed controls but if they have pull chain switches the switches must be left on high when speed controls are used.
Can you explain why the white of house one is connected to the red of the feed to the lights?
The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box.
The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end.
The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page. If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span. With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze.


In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin. Two-wire cable runs from the last switch to the light fixture and the common on that switch connects to the hot terminal on the light. The hot source is spliced through to the common terminal on SW2 and the hot terminal on the light fixture is connected to the common on SW1. Three-wire cable runs between all switches and 2-wire cable runs from the last switch to the light fixture. The travelers from SW1 run to T1 on the 4 way switch and from T2 to the traveler wires on the dimmer.
Each pair of terminals should be wired to the traveler wires from one of the 3 way switches.
Check to be sure the traveler wires only connect between the traveler terminals on the switches. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires.
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up. For circuits that control lights from two locations only, check the wiring diagrams at this link. At the 4-way, the hot wire from the common terminal on SW2 is splice through to the hot on the light fixture. Check the switch, remove it from the circuit and test for failure with a continuity tester or multimeter set on the Ohms setting. The travelers can be wired to either terminal in a pair, but don't mix up the pairs or the circuit won't work properly.
Also be sure the neutral from the source is connected to the neutral terminal at the light. Loking at your diagram I would assume House 1 feeds power elsewhere so it should be white to white. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The neutral source wire is spliced to the white cable wire in the switch box and to the white fan wire at the other end. Note that the white wire is wrapped with black electrical tape when it is used for hot in these circuits.
The 4 way comes right after the light fixture, but before the second 3 way switch, making it fall between the two 3 ways as needed. The two 4-ways are located between the two 3-ways and the traveler wires run from SW1 to T1 on the first 4-way.
The common wire is usually black and the travelers red, in any case, the traveler wires will usually be the same color to distinguish them from the common. A neutral wire will not be used with these switches, although some smart switches may make use of a neutral wire to operate the device.
The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end.
The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end.
It could also be installed on the other side of the light and the effect would be the same. T2 from that switch is wired to T1 on the second 4way and the output from there to the traveler terminals on SW2. In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.



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Comments to «Ceiling fan light dimmer switch wiring basics»

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