Wiring ceiling fan to light switch 61-2683a,cooker hood lights not working but fan is,panasonic ceiling fan price philippines now - How to DIY

Please let me know if it is not clear enough from the attached pictures which wires are going to where.
You are looking at a 3way switch, best you can do without re wiring, is to just buy a 3-way dimmer for the fan light, and use the pull chain for the fan control. Without pulling the new wires, can I use the current dimmer switch to control the lights and use the pull cord for the fan control, like you suggested in your first post? Ok, so I'm thinking about following this recommendation to pull 14-3 wire from the ceiling box to the first switch box.
This will only involve snaking a 2 wire down to the fan switch, you will of course have to ditch the existing switch you already have, but a better install if you ask me.
Hello, I recently added a ceiling fan with light to my spare bedroom, which previously only had a lamp plugged into an outlet that was controlled by a wall switch.
I have attached a diagram showing how the switches were wired before and after I added the ceiling fan. The switch has 4 wires out the back (well actually 6, but 2 of them are only used in 3-way switch applications). The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom. This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain. Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch. Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area. As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches.
Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction.
Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. Do you want 2 switches and a receptacle in a single gang box, or do you want 2 switches in one single gang box and a receptacle in a different single gang box? Also, I accidentally broke off the connector on the right side of the switch between the black screws.
Don't forget, since it's a bathroom the receptacle has to be protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). The bare copper grounds are all tied together and connected to the ground screw of both items. I have to say I just installed a fancier version of the same thing in 3 bathrooms in my house and the Lutron Light Dimmer and Fan Timer are awesome.

Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring receptacle exhaust-fan or ask your own question. Can "immortal" be used to describe someone that lives forever, yet can be destroyed? OP here: The light and the fan will be controlled from one single wall-box location (this is a bathroom). Since both are being switched from a single location, why do you want a three-way switch in the mix?As for a three-way "common" terminal, it's not to indicate where the neutral would be connected, but indicates which terminal is used to "select" one of the other two depending on switch position. Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain. These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches. The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box.
The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral.
These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing.
There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source.
The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing.
Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick.
This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter. A wire nut capped pigtail is fine for that, though be careful to keep the bare wire away from the neutral and hot terminals. And I see what you are trying to do (I think) - wire it up so that the fan must be on whenever the light is turned on. As long as you have access from above, should be doable, try and get a wire from the switch box up to the light box, and we'll fill in the rest of the blanks. The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box. The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end. The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page.

If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span. With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze. In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin. The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires.
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The neutral source wire is spliced to the white cable wire in the switch box and to the white fan wire at the other end. I can see that lower white wire that's connected to the switch, comes back as black and is one of those 3 hot ones i've labeled. There's no need for a three way switch, but you could use what you have if one of the two active connections was to the "common" terminal. The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end. The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end. In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.
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