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For a while I’ve been looking for a way to switch household power line (110V) devices.
From the schematic, it’s quite clear that when a button is pressed, the input voltage is fed to one of the encoder pins (as well as the VCC pin of the encoder). Basically, when the IO pin outputs low, transistor Q1 (NPN) turns off, and its collector is in high impedance status.
With this modification, I can now switch power line devices such as home lights and heaters using a microcontroller. I ended up running my remote off 12V to keep good range… but there were still a few places that had a hard time being reached (in my basement through foundation walls and arcade cabinets). I purchased the kit that was linked to, and it looks like they updated some of the components to surface mount versions.
There is no simple way of getting feedback because the remote control here is one way communication. Excellent article – I was able to figure out how to cycle my remote using your technique above. I was wondering if it would be possible to use a nmosfet to drive the remote pin to 12 volts – using the 5v output of a digital pin from the arduino at the gate of the mosfet? You can certainly use nmosfet to replace Q1 (the NPN transistor), which would save you one resistor.
Finally, everything would have been much simpler if the transmitter was designed to work with low-side switch (i.e. So… I modified the schematic to reflect running the 12v thru the mosfet directly to the button on the remote. Have you figured out the code that the transmitter sends, so it can be replicated on an Arduino? Since the remote control has 3 buttons, I made 3 copies of the above high-side driver, and the entire circuit fits nicely inside the remote control cover.

Better, I can connect the remote control with my OpenSprinkler Controller, thus I am able to control power line devices through a web interface.
I have a remote-controlled outlet at home and have been wanting to hook an Arduino up to it as well, but I was thinking about using an optocoupler instead of transistors. The input of the encoder is probably MOSFET based, so it’s activated by voltage instead of current. That said, I am still really new at working with electronics, do you have any more detail about where you hooked up the arduino digital pin and ground pin at each switch? OpenSprinkler is just an Arduino based controller, you can use any Arduino and in fact any microcontroller. But I don’t think one nmosfet is sufficient to implement a high-side switch, especially if you are using 5V output to drive the supply of 12V. So you can use 5V throughout, and use a PMOSFET (or alternatively a PNP transistor with a base resistor) to control the supply of 5V to the transmitter pin.
It involved using the arduino’s power source to power the chip and get it on that circuit. I thought about using your solution, but on further though I need smarter two-way communication. It is designed to work with a Purifire(r), to regulate the temperature, and to control the fan in any given room. Do you think that will work or will the optocoupler have too much resistance to complete the circuit? This should be fairly easy to identify if you look at the circuit board, locate the switches, and find out which side is connected to a closeby resistor.
Basically my question is, if I last turned on a device and using the arduino and then I go and manually turn off the device, how can I get that information to my software?
The way NMOSFET works is that if there is a sufficient voltage difference between G (gate) and S (source), the MOSFET will conduct and hence connects D (drain) and S.

This way, a logic high (from Arduino) turns off the transmitter, and a logic low turns on the transmitter. The way this works is that you plug the sockets into the wall, and when you press a button on the remote, the corresponding socket will switch, thus turning on or off the device connected to the socket.
Alternatively, you can use a multimeter (use continuity measurement) to find out which side of the switch is connected to the +12V line, then the other side is what you need to hook up wire to. Because in this case, D will be connected to 12V, when it conducts, S will also be pulled up to approximately 12V. It works, and changes state the first time I manually connect the wires, or turn on the power source, but it doesn’t alternate states.
So I guess what I need is something at the receiving end that shuts off automatically if the remote device does not hear from the master controller for a given time, and a small alarm goes off on the receiver indicating it hasn’t heard from the controller, and viceversa.
This remote control also allows you to control the on and off settings for the thermostat, Purifire(r), and fan. A much better option is to use the powerswitch tail, which insulates the relay and the relevant circuity inside a plastic enclosure, leaving only two MCU pins to interface with. Now, to use my Arduino to interface with this power switch, all I need to do is to simulate a button press by sourcing a positive voltage to wires labeled SW1, SW2, SW3 etc. It just stays stuck at the current state until I manually lift the wires and place them back down.

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06.05.2014 admin

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