No red wire for ceiling fan use,ceiling fan switch testing procedures,3 way switch wiring for ceiling fan and light india - You Shoud Know

The first step (as always) is to determine what circuit breaker feeds power to the circuit we are working on, and shut off that breaker.  For a quick review of safety considerations when working around electricity, CLICK HERE. Now that the breaker is off, and the electrical panel is locked (if so equipped) so nobody can accidentally turn the breaker back on while you are working on the circuit you can safely begin working. If you don’t have provisions for locking off the access to the panel, put a piece of electrical tape over the breaker handle holding it in the off position, and post a note warning others to leave the breaker off. The next step is to remove the canopy of the fan to check on the existing wiring, and plan for the installation of the remote control receiver unit.
The white wire from the supply cable will connect to the line in neutral, and the black wire will connect to the live in, or power in wire from the receiver. With all the connections made, we need to tuck the wires back into the box and install the remote receiver in the space available in the mounting bracket.
When the remote receiver is installed and the canopy and trim ring are back in place, we can now make our changes in the multi-gang switch box. With the switches back in place, and the faceplate installed, it’s time to check our installation. Changing a ceiling fan to remote control is an excellent solution for many applications, but especially in a bedroom where the switch is by the entrance door. If you aren’t comfortable and confident in safely completing a project like this on your own, use the box on the left of the page to find a reliable trusted licensed electrician in your local area. This entry was posted in How-To-Videos, Indoor Wiring and tagged ceiling fan, ceiling fan conversion, ceiling fan remote control, fan, remote control. I’m trying to wire in n my ceiling fan and there are 4 wires junctioned in to the box and only 2 black wires stubbed out, how do I wire it with 2 blacks?
The instructions indicate that I connect the green to green, white to white, and the blue+black to black.
However, when I opened the electrical box I found that there is 1 black, 2 white and 2 green cables.
I’ve just installed a ceiling fan and light with remote controller in place of a light. The end result would be two 3-way switches for the ceiling light only, and a new switch just for the fan. Ceiling fan low speed (only) within a minute or two slows to a stop, however, you can barely hear a hum until you turn it off or go to high speed or medium speed, which operate great. My sniffer says that I’m hot not only at the ceiling level but also 6 feet down near the motor. How do I determine if I need to use a manufacturer’s fan switch or if I can use an off-the-shelf fan switch? To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community.
I have two three-way switches at the bottom and two at the top of my stairs that control lights at each location.
Result -- each new switch downstairs and upstairs works in turning on and off the top and bottom lights.


Is it possible that my three-way switches at the top of the stairs are incompatible with the new three-way switches at the bottom? None of the wires is marked in the old house but the hot was easy to identify because it was connected -- same wire -- to the two hots on the old switches downstairs (and it shows current when grounded to the box). Now the only difference in your setup is that your hot coming into the box should be pigtailed with two wires, one for each switch.
Your pigtailed blacks go to the black or common screws, and the blacks from the lights go to the black or common screws.
The 4 wires you are referring to are the *travellers* between the upper and lower 3 way switches. What is important is the *hot* and the *load* ( which connects to the light ) requires to only connect on the *common* screw. Not to throw in any more confusion --- you might come across seeing the travellers being black and white ( reidentified ) conductors. It sounds like you have the travelers mixed up between the two separate three way switch systems.
I suspect that the problem may be because of the old three-way switches upstairs where I have no opened the box.
However, it seems to matter which traveler goes where on the new downstairs switch double three-way. What does matter --- the correct traveller wires from the correct cable are connected to the correct switch. The wires in cable A are connected to the pair of switches ( upper & lower ) that control the upstairs light.
With the same thing for cable B --- the wires in that cable connected to the pair of switches ( upper & lower ) that control the downstairs light. It sounds as though you have a traveller from cable A & B crossed over to the wrong switch. Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. The installation manual states to connect both Blue and Black ceiling fan wires to the Black outlet box wire.
If you want the fan and light to operate separately, then connecting the wires as you described is the way to go.
As for the green grounding wire, simply attach it to the green grounding wire in the ceiling. Assuming your new fan has a pull chain control and your house wiring is wired conventionally, and you want the same function as before, your assessment of connections is correct. Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring ceiling ceiling-fan or ask your own question. Can "immortal" be used to describe someone that lives forever, yet can be destroyed? With this particular fan, a trim ring conceals the four mounting screws that hold the canopy cover in place.


There is a 3-wire cable in the outlet box that provides a common neutral (white) wire, and the fan’s light kit is connected to the red, and the fan is connected to the black conductor. This can be a difficult job to make everything fit, but it’s important that everything fits in nicely and that no wires are pinched or jammed in too tightly so to avoid any damage to the conductors, potentially causing a short circuit condition. Remove the faceplate and the device screws and determine that the switch that controlled the light has a red wire on one terminal, and the switch that controlled the fan has a black wire on one side of it. You can keep the remote on the bedside table, and have access to the light and the fan if needed in the middle of the night, without getting out of bed!
I would like to buy an Emerson Loft fan and Emerson Curva fan and control them with Lagrange Adorne paddle fan controls. At some point you would need to open both boxes and with the help of a second person re-identify all the travelers with an ohmmeter or continuity checker. After a little switching around, I found the right combination to make both upstairs and downstairs work. The previous fan's light was controlled by the switch and the fan controlled by the pull chain.
You should use an appropriately sized ring or fork terminal, to connect the ground under the same screw as the ground from the ceiling.
The fan's green ground connects to the green wire at the outlet that is bonded to the hanger plate. The Cottage side porch opens into the end Hunter porch, all in one cabin!Every cabin starts out as a basic completed shell; then you add only the options that you need or desire. We only need one of these switched hot wires to act as the master power for the receiver unit.
Both switches will have a black hot wire from the same hot splice connected to each switch. The fan speed and direction will have to be set to the desired position using the pull-chain and reverse switch, and the light kit pull-chain will have to be on as well in order for the remote to work. I want to have the boxes as shallow as possible in order to keep the service chase shallow.
Am I understanding correctly that this green wire should be connected to the green wire from the fan motor?
You only need to completely remove one of the screws on each side, and just loosen the other two that are through the key-hole, or L-slots in the canopy cover to allow it to drop out of the way, exposing the mounting bracket and the fan wiring.
I will move the switch we are still using to the middle position, keep the switch for the room’s receptacles in the first position, and then use a blank filler plate to fill the position of the switch we removed.




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