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So if you want a seperate switch for each of the items, as you say a 3 function switch, then you will need another wire. By at least three wires you mean two wires coming from the attic to the switch and then the actual feed coming from the box as the third?
All of that is correct and you could parallel the shower light to the light in the fixture. Three cables coming into a small box is pretty tight (it may not even be "to code," I'm not a "code" expert) and you would have one more wire coming in than you do now. Power flows through the light, or fan motor, or heating element, and goes into the neutral line. Since you have three things that you want to independantly control, you need three bits or wire going from the control point to the thing you want to control. In Otto's diagram, it is instructional but note that the white neutral wire has to run back with the other cabling. Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.Ask follow up questions if you need to. THE THREE SWITCHES ARE FOR THE LIGHTS OoVER THE MIRROR, THE SECOND LIGHT MMWITH THE EXHAUST, AND THE SHOWER LIGHT.


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These switches are rated for 20 Amp service and allows separate switching of heater, fan, light, nightlight. If I do, would it be smart to cut out the original box and put it a remodeling box (to get more room)?
Tomorrow I'll draw up a diagram to get approved by you guys before I actually go through with the install.
It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around. Not only did you answer my questions, you even took it a step further with replying with more pertinent information I needed to know. I just drew a picture of a horse that could fly over rainbows and had a huge spike in its head.
When using it, you may have to turn off anything else on the same circuit or blow a breaker.


Use the proper size wire nuts for the number of wires you are connecting together at each point and it will work well. Problem is I don't have any open circuits I can use (nor do I want to attempt to run a wire to the box if I got a new box). The white wire is reserved for neutral, and the green or bare wire is reserved for ground; neither may be used for any other purpose. That tells me I can run a couple of canned lights on this same circuit (in the bathroom) safely. A "20 Amp rated Blankface GFCI" device or a 20 Amp GFCI circuit breaker can serve the heater portion of the circuit if required.



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28.01.2014 admin



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