Laundry room vent fan for,ceiling fan downlight kit led,polar pedestal fan price flipkart - Reviews

August 24, 2014 by Diane 4 Comments The first room we decided to work on was the laundry room since it is small and would not eat up too much $$$. The first thing we did was move everything out of the laundry room and take down those dated cabinets. As you can see in the close up I pained the vent oil rubbed bronze and it turned out great! As you can see we still have a lot of work to do in this room, but this is only the first phase. Here's a photo of the vent hook-up, which is sticking out of the back wall (NOT the window wall which is to the right of where the dryer would go). If you follow the vent hose into the wall, it turns 90 degrees before it reaches the outside.
Now if I get a regular back-venting Bosch, the venting will go out the back and will have to make a 90 degree turn to go to the right, and then won't it need another elbow to hook up with the vent hose that's sticking out of my wall? I talked with customer care at Bosch and was told that to vent to the side, I don't need an elbow in the machine.
The appliance store service guy also said that he thought the Duet was a better set than the Bosch Nexxt 500. When I read the spec info on the Duet site, it said that I need an inch between the machines, and an inch all around the machines--57".
So I guess I'm just going to have to back vent--even though that means the front of the dryer will be about 36" from the back wall. To save space you can try using a thing called a periscope instead of an elbow - this will take up much less room, though will impede airflow a bit. Maybe customer service was trying to say that for side venting you don't need to *buy* an extra elbow (beyond the one in the kit) for use in the machine? Bosch is probably overall a better-engineered set than the Duet; in Germany Bosch is considered first-tier, Bauknecht (who makes the Duets) a step down.
It's so funny that you should mention the periscoping vent because I had emailed the local appliance store installation expert that question yesterday. Me again: "If not, what do you think about using a periscoping dryer vent in the back? In the long run, wouldn't it be cheaper, easier and more efficient to either close up or remove the oddball vent and simply vent out the window wall to the outside? If you were my neighbor, I'd loan you my reciprocating saw and we'd have that stupid vent cut off in a minute. That's not a stupid observation at all--and, in fact, I just had the same conversation with yet another installation expert at the appliance store.
Some of you may have been impatient with me as I shared my laundry room makeover in bits and pieces. It’s hard to see in the photo above, but I even decorated the windowsill with a few of my older blue Mason jars filled with clothespins. My Longaberger Laundry Hamper looks fabulous sitting against the wall there, and nicely complements the old wood frame on the chalkboard. There are shelves over the washer and dryer, but reaching up for was awkward and my gallon jug of white vinegar didn’t fit on the bottom shelf, so instead of sitting the cleaners on the floor, I put them in my old copper boiler. The banner was created with leftover fabric from making the pleated skirt to hide the dryer vent and the washer shut-off valves. Wherever you find yourself in the wash-dry-fold-repeat routine, make it a pleasant place to be. Bless your friends by using the sharing buttons at the bottom and help spread a little extraordinary goodness.
Praying for a great place, quick & efficient packing, a safe arrival & a very happily-ever-after! A standpipe is simply an indirect waste receptor for the washer or an extended tailpiece- whichever you prefer to call it.
I was saying my inspector told me I didn't have to branch off before the p trap drained into the vertical laundry sink drain and tie in above the laundry sink drain. But there is nothing incorrect about the revent of the standpipe as shown in green in the photo. Sorry for opening up this thread again after so long after the last comment, but I was wondering about the revent shown in the previous post photos. As it was explained to me, the reason the revent line tie-in point should be above the overflow level was to prevent the revent line from becoming the drain line in the event of the actual drain line being plugged up at a point downstream from where the revent line ties into the drain line. Obviously if the revent show in the pictures is wrong, it might be possible to just cut it a bit off the standpipe and still be within the limits for the standpipe height and distance from the trap weir, and simultaneously get the standpipe overflow height lower than the revent height.
Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. Okay I actually do understand the purpose of the bathroom fan; it gets the steam out of the bathroom after a super hot shower, right? One other thing to think about - even if the fan isn't running, hot air rises and most of it is going to end up in your attic.
Is not advisable,your hearth and environment must be watched,create a window on your bathroom wall to be free from fan brake down and odors in your bathroom. Building code changes will happen, if not all ready changed, that homes will have to have a certain air exchange per hour. If your bathroom doesn't have a window and no fan then that all that moist air is going to create a perfect environment for mold and other unpleasant things.

Also, excessive humidity will probably make it's way into your walls and I you have a wooden house then it will start to rot. While I understand not wanting to have a vent on your roof, I would recommend either getting a low unobtrusive roof vent on the back slope of the roof or possible putting a vent out the eave or wall. If you vent out the eave and have soffit vents pulling air into the attic (for ventilation), you'll end up sucking the moist air up into the attic anyway.
See this related thread for other comments: How do I refinish a bathroom ceiling after it got moldy and peeled? As I found out much to my chagrin way back when I had to open up the wall on a bathroom that had a long failed power vent (black mold). Other tales from the Pacific Northwest brought to you by incessant damp in bathrooms, "The Amazing Descending Throne", an oft told tale by one of my Dad's friends who had it happen while he was sitting on it. Though a contractor somewhere needs a bit of karmic revenge as it's a crime against physics and materials to vent moist air into an attic space.
Because it has attracted low-quality or spam answers that had to be removed, posting an answer now requires 10 reputation on this site.
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When I removed some old elevated cabinetry in my laundry room, I discovered two holes in the wall.
I'm considering, however, reusing the older vent pipe in #2 which goes up the wall, straight through the attic, and out the roof. This seems to have some drawbacks as I can't see how lint won't just settle at the bottom of the vertical pipe and clog it.
The advantages of using the vertical pipe would be that I don't have to run any new rigid pipe and this hole is actually closer to where my stacked dryer will be. The vent flaps are easy to open (by design, it has to open with air pressure) so birds and rodents could easily open them up and make a home.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged vent dryer or ask your own question. It took us a little over a week but we got the first phase with our laundry renovation done! I didn’t take a picture but we also removed the wood stained baseboards and the thin blue carpet that were both original to the house. At this point I wasn’t sure if I liked the grout but it was too late to turn back now!
You can see that the floor is a little uneven but not too bad for Michael’s first time tiling. We have the washer and dryer on pedestals and we are using two metal shelves as our pantry. And, if so, is the salesman correct is stating that it's better for the machine for the venting hose to go straight back, even for that little bit, than it is to elbow inside the machine?
There's also an elbow in my wall, so I have three elbows either way--which is what I thought. I was really hoping for a shallower large capacity but I can't seem to find one that works well.
It clearly states that for side or bottom venting there is an internal elbow, and it gives a chart for maximum vent runs as a function of vent type (rigid or flexible) and number of elbows.
You should also measure the machine in the shop, as the 'official' dimensions are not always perfect. However, it is certainly the case that there is a bigger service network for Whirlpool machines in the US. Smaller premium front-loaders, like the Bosch Axxis and the Miele and Asko machines, still have more capacity than standard US top loaders, and will fit very easily in your space. It will need about an inch of clearance to the right of the vent pipe that goes to the exterior.
Since this builder always deals with this appliance store, perhaps they should have consulted with them before building it this way. You're very patient and kind to be helping strangers out this way--especially frustrated strangers like me!
There's some kind of pipe sticking out of the ground right where this side-venting would end--and I have to figure out what it is.
It is great when you can shop at home with all of the things one collects and reuse!!!Budgets make us more creative!!! As they say, necessity is the mother of invention and you really took your creative energy to extraordinary heights!!!
Very kindly that you went to the efforts while people were tromping through as prospective buyers. Sooo sorry you are leaving this space behind but know you will take all your wonderfully inspired props with you.
Wet vented fixtures (toilet, bathtub, shower, or floor drain) are permitted for bathrooms on the same floor level, not between floors. I had him specifically look at the stand pipe and he told me that the standpipe did not need to be vented to above the sink drain as it is in the picture in the post up above. I was saying that my drain (red line) was a short enough distance that I was told i didn't need the revent. You will not only get mold as others have mentioned, but the moisture will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation in your attic.

I had grown up in a house with a bathroom fan, and thought perhaps it wasn't necessary to vent the moisture, after all, since it didn't make sense to me to open the window in the winter. After a year or two, the ceiling texture started cracking and falling off, and around the same time I noticed black spots developing on the ceiling, as well.
I wouldn't have to run any new pipe and I could just patch the current gnarly hole (#3) with drywall. Going down and out instead seems like it would give lint the chance to settle along a greater space and get cleaned out by me later.
Birds are relatively easy to evict, but rodents are likely to chew their way through the duct and find their way into other places.
What if I were to close off that intake vent and just rely on the others around my foundation?
You'd want a screen to protect it from them, but that would require frequent cleaning to avoid a lint blockage. However, felines do have their downsides – such as the eternal struggle between your kitty’s litter box and design harmony within your home.It seems that the best places to keep the box are either the places that are the most obvious or, if less obvious, too close for comfort (like under your bed). We actually changed the light fixture months ago but it was hard to get it in these pictures. In this closeup you can also see the caulk we ran along the top and bottom of the baseboards to make it look more finished. We still have some work to do but I am pretty pleased with it now, and it’s so nice to walk on sturdy tile! Basically, if I understood him, he said that the dryer won't work as well because the machine is built to have the venting hose go straight back before it gets outside the machine. That wall to the right of the dryer is an outside wall so I think I only have about eight feet of venting at the most. I am going to talk with the builder on Monday and suggest that they pay for the wall work while I pay for the side-venting cost.
The clothespin theme is just perfect for a laundry room and you know how I love your chalkboard! But, we learned how to start from rough lumber and join and glue and plane the wood for our projects. Apparently the purpose of venting moist air is to prevent mold from growing and to prevent the moisture from damaging your ceiling, walls, and cabinets.
I'm thinking I should shove some steel wool in the opening, pull out the short horizontal tube and fix up the wall. As for the crawl space vent, I wouldn't want a possible intake vent so close to to the dryer exhaust, it's a humidity issue waiting to happen.
If you’re diligent about cleaning out the litter box often, you may not have to contend with the foul smells – but what about the errant clay stones kicked about when Fluffy tries to cover his mess?If you’re one of the thousands of homeowners plagued with the decision of placing a litter box, you’ll be happy to know that there are multiple solutions.
If not, it sounds like I would be doing many more loads and for a longer time period--not exactly what I was hoping for. Of course he doesn't know that I know he made a mistake, so it would have been nice of him to call and confess his error. I feel bittersweet for you ~ all this work and now to not enjoy it for yourself Wishing you extraordinary blessings!! For your benefit, here are a three of the best (and sneakiest) litter box hiding spots —Hollow Furniture – In addition to keeping the smells well covered, hiding your litter box inside a piece of easily movable furniture will also keep your guests guessing. Last Christmas hubby and my oldest son surprised me by switching them out and I’ve been a happy lark ever since. We were so sad when the shop was closed and the great old machines were sold as the district had a new training school for kids to attend instead. I got ice cream on my favorite night shirt and didn’t realize it until the next day…I hate those medicine cabinet mirrors! Try to clean it out yearly, and make sure to clean the lint trap out of the dryer between each usage.
There are many premade litter box hiders already on the market, but it’s also fairly easy to fashion your own. The walls really are creamier than they look here and help transition to the other the nearby areas. I think I have a room for that ?? And I just love that copper boiler – good thinking on using it to houze your cleaners. Firstly, invest in an inexpensive piece of solid looking furniture that would be big enough to hold the box – such as an end table. Just be sure to face the hole away from plain view.Cabinet – Have a cabinet you don’t use often? I used to warn my husband…you get something on your shirt, you might as well throw it away. Simply add a pet door to the cabinet front and your furry friend can come and go as needed without disturbing anyone around.See also8 Ways to Hide or Dress Up an Ugly Kitchen Trash CanLaundry Room – If all else fails, a laundry room is a great place to hide a litter box from guests – and the constant smell of detergent will conceal the smell of litter. Tuck the box into a corner, but be sure to clean often or your pet may decide to start using your clothes as his new spot.

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