How to wire bathroom fan and light on one switch,floor fan harvey norman ok,fan low price laptop - Reviews

Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. Do you want 2 switches and a receptacle in a single gang box, or do you want 2 switches in one single gang box and a receptacle in a different single gang box?
Also, I accidentally broke off the connector on the right side of the switch between the black screws. Don't forget, since it's a bathroom the receptacle has to be protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
The bare copper grounds are all tied together and connected to the ground screw of both items. I have to say I just installed a fancier version of the same thing in 3 bathrooms in my house and the Lutron Light Dimmer and Fan Timer are awesome.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring receptacle exhaust-fan or ask your own question. Is "The two men Savchenko, an Iraq war veteran, was convicted of helping to kill were .
Are Hilbert-Schmidt operators on separable Hilbert spaces "Hilbert Schmidt" on the space of Hilbert Schmidt Operators? So if you want a seperate switch for each of the items, as you say a 3 function switch, then you will need another wire. By at least three wires you mean two wires coming from the attic to the switch and then the actual feed coming from the box as the third? All of that is correct and you could parallel the shower light to the light in the fixture. Three cables coming into a small box is pretty tight (it may not even be "to code," I'm not a "code" expert) and you would have one more wire coming in than you do now.
Power flows through the light, or fan motor, or heating element, and goes into the neutral line. Since you have three things that you want to independantly control, you need three bits or wire going from the control point to the thing you want to control.


In Otto's diagram, it is instructional but note that the white neutral wire has to run back with the other cabling. To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community.
The ventilation fan has the following wires Neutral, ground, black (L), Fan, Light, common, Night Light (we don't want to hook up the night light).
On your new fan there should one common neutral (white) and 3 hot wires for exhaust, main light and night light. On edit: Based on your last pic - you are supposed to power the fan combo at the unit and then run a dedicated switch line down. That yellow wire is connected to the black inside the fan therefore it must be capped off.
Based on these two pieces of information, splice the black switch wire to the red wire in the unit. The labels on the wires in the unit and the colors in the wiring diagram don't appear to agree.
The connection to the shower lights cannot be under the same wire nut as the connection to the fan.
I would definitely check your other wiring at your panelboard to see if any #14 wires are connected to 20A breakers.
A wire nut capped pigtail is fine for that, though be careful to keep the bare wire away from the neutral and hot terminals.
If I do, would it be smart to cut out the original box and put it a remodeling box (to get more room)? Tomorrow I'll draw up a diagram to get approved by you guys before I actually go through with the install.
The diagram shows a un-switched 2-conductor cable providing power to the fan and a 3 conductor cable running to switch box for the switch. Just want to make sure that it is ok to run the blue and red wires from the switch to the fan then from the fan to the light.


The blue wire has nothing to do with the fan, except for the fact that it is being spliced in the fan junction box to feed the shower lights. It's possible a previous homeowner swapped the 15A breaker for a 20A somewhere along the line, without an understanding of what they were actually doing; but it could be any number of reasons.
I just drew a picture of a horse that could fly over rainbows and had a huge spike in its head.
When using it, you may have to turn off anything else on the same circuit or blow a breaker. Use the proper size wire nuts for the number of wires you are connecting together at each point and it will work well. It will be white to white, the red wire in your box to the main light, black wire in your box to the fan and just cap off the extra night light wire.
I know the instructions showed them split but I assumed you could do it the way in your diagram. Problem is I don't have any open circuits I can use (nor do I want to attempt to run a wire to the box if I got a new box). To wire according to the diagram you woulf have to either run a new 2 conductor cable to the fan in addition to the three conductor cable there or replace the existing switch cable with a 4-conductor cable.
I can see that lower white wire that's connected to the switch, comes back as black and is one of those 3 hot ones i've labeled.
The white wire is reserved for neutral, and the green or bare wire is reserved for ground; neither may be used for any other purpose. Now there really is nothing to worry aobut on this breaker since I will be running a new line to the bathroom with 12 gauge wire on a 20 amp breaker. That tells me I can run a couple of canned lights on this same circuit (in the bathroom) safely.



Polished brass ceiling fan light bulbs
Honeywell 16 quietset pedestal fan tesco
Westpointe tower fan reviews
Alpha ceiling fan price list malaysia 2014
11.02.2014 admin



Comments to «How to wire bathroom fan and light on one switch»

  1. prince757 writes:
    Models bearing the Energy STAR label.
  2. Boy_213 writes:
    For your own ceiling light although recessed lighting is not that the fan can sustain.
  3. BARIS writes:
    Conservatory or higher ceiling ourselves, we really.
  4. sadELovh22 writes:
    Indoor and outside regions, but outdoor spaces from.