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Even if you are experienced in working with household electricity, the disclaimer at the top of this web page contains important notes about the information in this document, so please read it if you have not already done so.
This web page describes repairs made to a ceiling fan with a pull-chain speed control switch.
Ceiling fans with pull chains typically include a speed control switch, a direction switch, and a capacitor. The information in this document is based on my experience fixing a ceiling fan with a 3-speed (plus off) switch and a 5-wire capacitor. In the lower hub of the ceiling fan where the capacitor and switches are located, several wires come down from higher in the fan.
The black wires on the diagram are connected to the black wire that comes down from higher in the fan. After completing the repair, I noticed than when switching from medium speed to high speed there is sometimes a slight audible "pop" suggesting sparking inside the switch.
Before disconnecting any wires, make sure you write down what the original connections are. If you do not know the pattern of the original switch and cannot find any information on it, you might consider disassembling the switch (after removing it from the fan, obviously) to see if you can determine the contact pattern.
If you cannot determine the pattern of your original switch or are unsuccessful working from the original pattern, a more in-depth approach is required. Most likely a capacitor needs to be in series between the incoming power and the motor winding. You also need to know the internal configuration of your capacitor, since ceiling fan capacitors often contain multiple capacitors in one package. Once you know the internals of your capacitor block, you need to figure out a switch wiring that will create the desired combinations of capacitors.
Note that all this experimentation with wire positions is done on paper, not with the actual wires. I did learn that I had purchased a 5-8 wire switch (black base), instead of the 4 wire switch (red base)A  I needed. As I stated in the original answer to your question, if the fan speed replacement still didn't do the trick for you, you can still refer to the items and steps that I wrote in the post. You can replace the capacitor out, if you have access to it, and see if that solves your fan speed dilemma.
Also, you can contact Hampton Bay to see if it maybe under warranty or for other trouble-shooting tips.
You'll need to find the model number (a 12 digit UPCA code, all numbers no letters) of your Hampton Bay fan, it will be located on your ceiling fan, even if you no longer have the box or SKU number for it. To find the true model number information, there should be a sticker placed on top of the ceiling fans housing. From what it sounds like, your replacement switch was not exactly the same as your old one. I replaced the 3 Speed (Off, High, Medium, Low Speed), 4 wire switch in my Hampton Bay Ceiling fan with a replacement from Home Depot. A ceiling fan requires a neutral wire (white), a ground wire (green), a hot wire for the fan (black), and on fans with light kits a hot wire for the lights (blue). The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to post Please use English characters only. If you find this type of plug in you home it is time to call in an electricianThis is the electrical version of Beta vs VHS. Plug individual appliances into the generator using heavy duty, outdoor rated cords with a wire gauge adequate for the appliance load.
If connecting to the house wiring is necessary to operate a well pump, sump pump, furnace or other hard-wired equipment, have a qualified electrician install a manual transfer switch to prevent backfeed into our lines.
A typical (1) portable generator connection transfers power through heavy duty cable plugged into a (2) power inlet box which acts as a weathertight connection to the (3) manual transfer switch that powers selected circuits of the (4) main distribution panel.
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Hello, I've been working hard to find a Professional to assist you with your question, but sometimes finding the right Professional can take a little longer than expected. Home Improvement Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for contractors and serious DIYers. I have a Home Depot, undocumented, no-name ceiling fan and I've messed up the speed control connections, and I'm trying to understand how the circuit works.
My fan motor has 5 wires, with Blue-Brown resistance 60 Ohms, and Yellow-Red-Gray resistances of 29, 96 (and 120 yellow-gray). I think my fan might take the hot in on '1' and feed the reversing coil with the 'L', then use 2+3 to control the multitap coil. I understand the reversing of the single phase to reverse the direction of the fan, and I understand the capacitor changes the phase between the two coils to select a direction. Why does powering or shorting the different taps of this multi-tap motor affect the speed of the motor? ETA: This question was migrated from the electrical engineering site, but the question I was trying to ask was about the theory of multi-tap motor coils and their use, with a ceiling fan as a practical example.
This question came from our site for electronics and electrical engineering professionals, students, and enthusiasts.
Pick whichever you prefer; one will switch off-high-medium-low-off, and the other will switch off-low-medium-high-off. 3 (2->3) appears to be "slow" because power flows through the right half of the bottom coil, and then through the side coil, in series.
1 (2->1) appears to be "fast" because the left side of the bottom coil, and the side coil, are powered in parallel.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical electric-motor fans or ask your own question.


Is "The two men Savchenko, an Iraq war veteran, was convicted of helping to kill were . There was a old ceiling fan with light and remote in a bedroom of my house that didn't work.
Coming from the box was red and black which are both hot and were connected to the switch, and white. So in the ceiling I have 3 cables, 2 of them black and white, and the 3rd is red, white and black. The diagram is based on your description, and is my best guess as to what your wiring looks like. YeeHA everything works, except the fan doesnt turn off and i am hearing a very short buzzing noise about every two seconds.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged electrical wiring switch ceiling-fan or ask your own question. A common problem with these switches is that the pull chain can break off inside the switch. Unfortunately, there is no agreement among manufacturers about how to configure these components.
However, I have also included some information on how to apply these concepts to the general case, so this information may be helpful even if you have a different type of capacitor or switch.
A fan capacitor with more than two wires will probably contain multiple capacitors in one block. Basically this arrangement puts the input power through a capacitor and then into one of the motor windings.
The black wire from the fan originally branched into two, but it was necessary to add a third to work with this switch. If you know which contacts the switch connects in each speed position, then you can determine by inspection which wires get connected for each speed setting. In the case of my fan, as described in the previous paragraph, this means connecting a capacitor in series between the black and gray wires. If you do not know the internal configuration of your capacitor, you could make measurements to discover it.
I have a similar issue.A I replaced the fan switch a couple of years ago when it stopped working on High and Low.
The replacement switches that are available connect only one contact at a time that changes as you pull the chain. But inspect the model and make of your fan at the top of the motor housing and hopefully you'll be getting the right solution for your fan. It may also be a case of having one wire being inserted in the wrong location, but as stated before, it sounds like it was a different switch.
Hundreds of questions have been answered switches, outlets, circuit breakers, 3-way switches, GFCI outlets and more.
The switch protects our workers and the public from getting injured by your power supply, and it prevents damage to your generator, wiring and appliances when power is restored.
Only operate a generator outdoors in a well-ventilated, dry area, away from air intakes to the home, and protected from direct exposure to rain and snow, preferably under a canopy, open shed, or carport. This bathroom has two wall sconces but they are up high and cannot cast enough light down to the vanity's surface. Do you wish for me to continue to search for someone to assist you or would you like for us to close your question at this time?
Most fans have a little slide switch mounted on the bell housing for reversing and it is separate from the pull chain speed switch. Both get the full house-current voltage applied across them rather than the reduced amount of power they got in series.
I took a guess at what your wiring looked like, without actually seeing it or testing anything.
You're now following ceiling fan switch 3 in your eBay Feed.You will receive email alerts for new listings. Unfortunately, there are many types of fan switches and it is very difficult to find the right replacement.
First, increasing the capacitance in series with the coil will typically increase the fan speed.
IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that this wiring is for a particular switch type and a particular fan. Then it is just a matter of finding a way to wire your new switch to replicate those connection patterns. The speed switch will also be involved of course, since it will determine which capacitor(s) are connected between the black and gray wires. Important: Remember when working with capacitors that they can store a charge even when not connected to anything. However, please know that I cannot provide simple "this color wire goes here" responses to your questions about your particular fan. As long as you have had no safety issues, you can still use this switch, but if you would like to use another replacement switch that has the L,3,2,1 settings to ensure you get the same settings back, you can do that.
The old lights were flourescent and cast a poor yellow light that did not do a good job of showing off the counter tops. However, it may be possible to use a different type of replacement switch with modified wiring. The capacitors come in even more variations, including different numbers of wires, different wire colors, and different capacitance values. So, even if you are using a different type of fan, please read all the sections because they will help you understand how to figure out your particular ceiling fan. In this regard, note that a short (direct wire, no capacitor) is like an infinite capacitor (for AC power only, not DC).


If you cannot get a replacement, or would rather just try to use whatever switch you can find at a local store, the following information may be helpful.
For example, if you know that blue and black connect to make high and orange and black connect to make medium (just for example), then you would try to find a way to wire your new switch to make those same connections when you pull the chain.
Next I decided to use the 5 µF capacitor that is accessible through the green wire on the capacitor block.
To check your wiring on paper, carefully trace out what the circuit will be for each switch position.
The un-grounded type like you would find on a lamp can still operate in an outlet like this. The wall sconces produce a softer light that casts off the wall and is much better for applying make-up or shaving. The other gray capacitor wire twists together with the gray wire coming from the direction switch. Discharge the capacitor safely and verify that it is discharged (using a volt meter perhaps) before touching the leads with your hands.
Seems like an odd solution, but if I'm remembering my freshman Physics at all correctly it might actually be a reasonably efficient solution. Note that the two 5 µF capacitors are in parallel with each other and this combination is in series between the black wire and the motor.
The red capacitor wire twists together with the red wire that comes down from higher in the ceiling fan. Remember that the gray wires from the capacitor are connected internally to the other end of the capacitors that are on the green, brown, and red wires (see capacitor internals diagram above).
The point is, this new replacement switch looks like and is wired JUST like the older replacement switch.A But, I am thinking maybe I messed up the other replacement. Your best bet is to find somebody that knows what they're doing, and can actually be there. Even in a good picture it may be very difficult to read labels engraved or stamped on plastic parts. The approach I took was to measure the capacitance between each possible pair of wires and then draw a diagram.
Also, one of the gray wires from the capacitor goes to the gray wire from the direction switch, and from there to the motor.
So, for example, it starts by connecting L and 1 on the top deck and, separately, L and 1 on the middle deck.
Then verify your design by looking at your diagram and thinking about which wires the switch will connect in each position.
What I am describing here is just the logical process I followed for determining what these wires are. So now I have 5 µF in series between black and gray when the switch is in position L-1.
After discharging the capacitor, it may be wise to check with a volt meter to make sure no charge remains between any pair of leads. On the next pull it connects 1 and 2, then 2 and 3, then 3 and L, and finally back to L and 1. The red wire from the fan was connected directly to the red wire on the capacitor, so I left it that way.
I found that the black wire is apparently hot (as usual), and the white is neutral (as usual). If you cannot find the internal configuration of your capacitor, another approach would be to consider obtaining a new capacitor whose internals you do know. I needed black to connect with this in switch position 1-2, so I added another black on contact 2 on the middle deck. On the top of the direction switch, the yellow is on the right side of the switch and the pink is on the left.
At the same time, I wanted black and brown connected on the top deck so that I would have the two capacitors in parallel. YOU MUST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT THE FAN IS ATTACHED TO AND VERIFY THAT THE FAN IS NOT RECEIVING POWER. It should be replaced.Image via WikipediaNow, that we know some of the history of this style of plug. In the middle of the direction switch, the white wire comes into the left side and a gray wire is on the right side. By flipping the order of the yellow and pink wires (by moving the direction switch), the rotation direction of the ceiling fan is reversed. Since white (neutral) is on the left, the gray wire on the right seems to be the wire through which power is supplied to the motor winding.
Now when the switch is in position 2-3, the black and gray wires connect on the top deck and there is no connection on the bottom deck. Note that I had to put the gray wire in contact 3 on top because even though the middle deck has black on 2 as well, it also has black on L, which would make position 3-L another high, rather than off.
In my fan, it originally connected directly to the capacitor and not the speed switch, so I left this connection as it was. This is just an example of the logical approach required to develop a suitable switch wiring once you know the pattern of your switch and the internals of your capacitor. The above information about wire colors is not intended to apply directly to any particular fan.



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