Ceiling fan pull chain wiring diagram youtube,outdoor pendant lights nz,spanish fans to buy online - PDF 2016

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Wiring a ceiling fan and light can seem like a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be.
The main thing to consider wiring a ceiling fan and light is determining how you want that fan to be controlled. Having the right tools will help the project to go smoothly and ensure you don’t get bogged down trying to use, for example, a razor knifed to strip wires, when a pair of wire strippers will do the job more accurately and about 10x faster.
It’s always important to follow the local codes in your area when wiring a ceiling fan and light.
This method is often used when you simply cannot run a switch into the room, but you do have the ability to pull power to the fan form a nearby location. This method and the following are the most commonly used since they only require a single light switch.
This is a slight adaptation of the above method that switches power for both the fan and the light kit form the wall switch. Note that power is fed through the switch and both the fan motor and light kit are recipients of this switched power source. Keep in mind that, while code makes certain stipulations, there are typically different ways to accomplish a wiring connection.
This is identical to situation #3 above, however we wanted to outline the wiring differences when the power is actually at the switch instead of in the ceiling.
Hopefully this guide will get you on your way to installing a ceiling fan and making all of the required electrical connections to get it up and running smoothly. When he's not remodeling part of his house or playing with the latest power tool, Clint enjoys life as a husband, father and avid reader.
Variable speed and two-circuit brass plated pull chain switches for multifunction applications.
Click here to remove banner ads from this forum.This Forum Is Hosted For FREE By ProBoardsGet Your Own Free Forum! Even if you are experienced in working with household electricity, the disclaimer at the top of this web page contains important notes about the information in this document, so please read it if you have not already done so. This web page describes repairs made to a ceiling fan with a pull-chain speed control switch.
Ceiling fans with pull chains typically include a speed control switch, a direction switch, and a capacitor. The information in this document is based on my experience fixing a ceiling fan with a 3-speed (plus off) switch and a 5-wire capacitor. In the lower hub of the ceiling fan where the capacitor and switches are located, several wires come down from higher in the fan. The black wires on the diagram are connected to the black wire that comes down from higher in the fan. After completing the repair, I noticed than when switching from medium speed to high speed there is sometimes a slight audible "pop" suggesting sparking inside the switch.
Before disconnecting any wires, make sure you write down what the original connections are. If you do not know the pattern of the original switch and cannot find any information on it, you might consider disassembling the switch (after removing it from the fan, obviously) to see if you can determine the contact pattern.
If you cannot determine the pattern of your original switch or are unsuccessful working from the original pattern, a more in-depth approach is required. Most likely a capacitor needs to be in series between the incoming power and the motor winding. You also need to know the internal configuration of your capacitor, since ceiling fan capacitors often contain multiple capacitors in one package. Once you know the internals of your capacitor block, you need to figure out a switch wiring that will create the desired combinations of capacitors.
Note that all this experimentation with wire positions is done on paper, not with the actual wires.
Twin and earth wiring is required for all installations except those using a double wall control. However, If in doubt with any part of the installation procedure then please contact a qualified electrician. Pro Tool Reviews gives you a visual guide and step by step instructions on making the best connections for your particular ceiling fan installation. It’s certainly an acceptable wiring method and the fans all come with pull string switches to control the fans and light kits. The power for the fan motor will typically be black, while most modern day fans will also have a separate blue wire that supplies power to the lights. In many older homes there was never any thought to wiring up a second switch since most homes didn’t have a powered ceiling fan. What this does is allow you to turn the fan on and off with the wall switch (along with the light) without having to walk over and pull the chain to stop the fan motor.
They almost never have a metal inner winding and are commonly undersized, which makes them difficult to use, if not unsafe. A ceiling fan makes a great addition to almost any room and is one of the easiest projects to complete that can really make an impact in your home and make you look and feel like a real handyman. The light goes on and off with the switch just fine, but when I pull the chain to start the fan, the fan starts and the light comes on, even if the wall switch is in the off position. On the top where the mounting hardware is only a black and white wire, white runs all the way through, and I believe black wire connects into the motor.


I hooked it up the way some things are shown on the diagram, leaving a few wires not hooked up to the pull chain.
That pullchain looks like it's original or could have been added a long time ago, which means the fan did run with that pullchain switch. There was a 3 to 4 wire pullchain, 4 wire pullchain, and a double function 5 to 8 wire pullchain.
A common problem with these switches is that the pull chain can break off inside the switch.
Unfortunately, there is no agreement among manufacturers about how to configure these components. However, I have also included some information on how to apply these concepts to the general case, so this information may be helpful even if you have a different type of capacitor or switch.
A fan capacitor with more than two wires will probably contain multiple capacitors in one block. Basically this arrangement puts the input power through a capacitor and then into one of the motor windings.
The black wire from the fan originally branched into two, but it was necessary to add a third to work with this switch. If you know which contacts the switch connects in each speed position, then you can determine by inspection which wires get connected for each speed setting. In the case of my fan, as described in the previous paragraph, this means connecting a capacitor in series between the black and gray wires. If you do not know the internal configuration of your capacitor, you could make measurements to discover it. ON a scale of 1-10, the level of difficulty on this project is a 5, though it can be more complex if you include the ancillary projects such as running wiring through walls, etc. When working with electricity, always remember to turn off the power, test the wiring with an electrical tester (or voltmeter) to ensure the power is off, secure the panel box so no one can accidentally re-engage power while you are working, and consult a professional to ensure you are doing things correctly and within the specifications of your state and local codes. While we show a small strip of electrical tape, we recommend actually wrapping it around all the exposed white wire. There are also lots of really convenient switches that put this dual control into one neat little package.
Jumping means that you strip the insulation away from a small area of wire, just large enough to loop around the hot terminal. Secondly, this method of wiring makes swapping out ceiling fans easy as cutting power at the switch eliminates all power to the ceiling box. What does change is that you can safely deactivate the ceiling fan box simply by turning off the switch. Instead, be sure to grab a small assortment pack at your local home improvement or hardware store. The red yellow and black wires coming into the switch housing, are all, I believe connected into the windings. When I first tried to hook the fan up, I heard a sizeling noise and it got hot, and a few times after that it got hot. Unfortunately, there are many types of fan switches and it is very difficult to find the right replacement.
First, increasing the capacitance in series with the coil will typically increase the fan speed. IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that this wiring is for a particular switch type and a particular fan.
Then it is just a matter of finding a way to wire your new switch to replicate those connection patterns.
The speed switch will also be involved of course, since it will determine which capacitor(s) are connected between the black and gray wires. Important: Remember when working with capacitors that they can store a charge even when not connected to anything.
However, please know that I cannot provide simple "this color wire goes here" responses to your questions about your particular fan. All that’s left at this point is to tie together all the ground wires and neutral wires (respectively). You then loop that exposed wire around the hot terminal of the first switch and then strip the end and connect that to the second switch. Note that we still recommend deactivating the breaker and checking your wires with a voltmeter, but it’s worth nothing nonetheless.
This is handy when replacing ceiling fans with a similar model, however we still recommend shutting down the breaker, lest someone walk in on you and attempt to turn on the lights! While typically not necessary, we recommend taping any wire nuts after you make those connections. He hopes his efforts at PTR will provide builders and contractors with reliable and engaging tool reviews to help them make better tool purchasing decisions. I know it works, because when black wires was hooked up, fan would run and when pullchain was pulled was when fan sparked at the power source (Not in switch housing) Blue wire is for the light kit for this ceiling fan. However, it may be possible to use a different type of replacement switch with modified wiring. The capacitors come in even more variations, including different numbers of wires, different wire colors, and different capacitance values. So, even if you are using a different type of fan, please read all the sections because they will help you understand how to figure out your particular ceiling fan.
In this regard, note that a short (direct wire, no capacitor) is like an infinite capacitor (for AC power only, not DC). If you cannot get a replacement, or would rather just try to use whatever switch you can find at a local store, the following information may be helpful.


For example, if you know that blue and black connect to make high and orange and black connect to make medium (just for example), then you would try to find a way to wire your new switch to make those same connections when you pull the chain.
Next I decided to use the 5 µF capacitor that is accessible through the green wire on the capacitor block. To check your wiring on paper, carefully trace out what the circuit will be for each switch position.
The hot returns are then the red wire and the white wire which you tape black (on both ends) to designate it as a hot wire. Wire nuts are normally very reliable, but it never hurts to add an extra layer of protection to keep them from ever unwinding. The other gray capacitor wire twists together with the gray wire coming from the direction switch. Discharge the capacitor safely and verify that it is discharged (using a volt meter perhaps) before touching the leads with your hands.
This is just a good habit to get into and costs next to nothing in terms of time or money to implement.
I can get the fan to run in reverse depending on how I hook up the capacitor, transformer, and reverse switch up.
Note that the two 5 µF capacitors are in parallel with each other and this combination is in series between the black wire and the motor.
The red capacitor wire twists together with the red wire that comes down from higher in the ceiling fan. Remember that the gray wires from the capacitor are connected internally to the other end of the capacitors that are on the green, brown, and red wires (see capacitor internals diagram above). I never can get both forward and reverse to work.Wires from the reverse switchWires from downrod. Even in a good picture it may be very difficult to read labels engraved or stamped on plastic parts. The approach I took was to measure the capacitance between each possible pair of wires and then draw a diagram. Also, one of the gray wires from the capacitor goes to the gray wire from the direction switch, and from there to the motor. So, for example, it starts by connecting L and 1 on the top deck and, separately, L and 1 on the middle deck. Then verify your design by looking at your diagram and thinking about which wires the switch will connect in each position. What I am describing here is just the logical process I followed for determining what these wires are. So now I have 5 µF in series between black and gray when the switch is in position L-1. After discharging the capacitor, it may be wise to check with a volt meter to make sure no charge remains between any pair of leads. On the next pull it connects 1 and 2, then 2 and 3, then 3 and L, and finally back to L and 1. The red wire from the fan was connected directly to the red wire on the capacitor, so I left it that way. I found that the black wire is apparently hot (as usual), and the white is neutral (as usual).
If you cannot find the internal configuration of your capacitor, another approach would be to consider obtaining a new capacitor whose internals you do know. I needed black to connect with this in switch position 1-2, so I added another black on contact 2 on the middle deck. On the top of the direction switch, the yellow is on the right side of the switch and the pink is on the left.
At the same time, I wanted black and brown connected on the top deck so that I would have the two capacitors in parallel.
YOU MUST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT THE FAN IS ATTACHED TO AND VERIFY THAT THE FAN IS NOT RECEIVING POWER. In the middle of the direction switch, the white wire comes into the left side and a gray wire is on the right side. By flipping the order of the yellow and pink wires (by moving the direction switch), the rotation direction of the ceiling fan is reversed. Since white (neutral) is on the left, the gray wire on the right seems to be the wire through which power is supplied to the motor winding.
Now when the switch is in position 2-3, the black and gray wires connect on the top deck and there is no connection on the bottom deck. Note that I had to put the gray wire in contact 3 on top because even though the middle deck has black on 2 as well, it also has black on L, which would make position 3-L another high, rather than off. In my fan, it originally connected directly to the capacitor and not the speed switch, so I left this connection as it was. This is just an example of the logical approach required to develop a suitable switch wiring once you know the pattern of your switch and the internals of your capacitor. The above information about wire colors is not intended to apply directly to any particular fan.



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12.08.2013 admin



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