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Perfect for large, open spaces with high ceilings, heat fans improve worker comfort year-round.
BATHROOM FAN HEAT RECOVERY - CONTENTS: can you use a heat recovery ventilator system in a bathroom? This article series explains how to install bathroom exhaust fans or vents, the vent ducting, the vent termination at the wall, soffit or roof, vent fan wiring, bath vent duct insulation, bath vent lengths, clearances, routing, and we answer just about any other bathroom ventilation design or installation question you may have.
Have you any views on whether the ceiling exhaust valve should be located directly over the shower area or more centrally in the bathroom?
Eugene, I think we're discussing ceiling exhaust vents; placing one directly over the shower is fine and probably increases the ease with which it picks up moisture. An exhaust fan system that could not tolerate moisture would be one I would toss in the trash.
As an example we looked at Panasonic's installation manual for their ceiling mounted ventilating fan models FV05Q3 - FV15Q4.
But there is no mention of NOT locating the fan where it is in fact most needed and most effective - over the moisture source. You are discussing a different piece of equipment, not a bath vent fan but a heat recovery ventilating fan. If you want to give us the brand and model we (or you) ought to be able to find the manufacturer's installation instructions to see what constraints apply. There are some installation restrictions that I quote here, none of which mentions a shower installation. Now I read that as rather clear that the manufacturer anticipates handling moisture generated by a shower.
Some common sense about unit location to protect it from water, say from shower splashing, would of course be pertinent. If you are considering the smaller Renovent you might want to review the features I've described with the manufacturer directly to see if they are needed for your installation.
The optional PCB with moisture, CO2 and other features is something I might consider in the future.
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Condensate drip trays: this air conditioning repair article discusses the inspection and repair of air conditioning condensate systems, including Air Conditioning Condensate Drip Trays, Defects, and Leaks. The sketch illustrates that the condensate drain from the auxiliary condensate tray is not only separated from the primary condensate drain, it is best routed to a different destination and one at which the discharge will be noticed, prompting a repair. A condensate leak or overflow into the drip tray can trip this switch, shutting down your air conditioner or heat pump system. The lever senses the presence of water and "floats up" until it shuts down the air conditioning system. Remember that if the condensate float tray switch senses condensate in the tray (or is otherwise defective) it will shut the air conditioning system down - if your air conditioning system seems ok but won't turn on, this switch could be one of the items to check. Watch out: if your air conditioner has suddenly shut off and won't start, don't forget to check the condensate overflow tray for water, and if this switch was used (instead of a second condensate drain pipe), see if the switch is keeping your air conditioner turned off.
If there is an drain pan overflow shutoff switch already installed but needing replacement, it should be a simpler operation since it's just a swap-in part. Don't forget to find and fix the cause of condensate leakage into the overflow tray or you'll continue to have air conditioner operating problems.
In this photograph of the interior of an air conditioner overflow drip pan or tray, the air conditioning system condensate overflow tray shows evidence of leaks. Only observed draining from the primary pipe during the day (85 - 100 degrees F) but noticed a little dripping from the overflow pipe at night (not continuous). Angel: Carson Dunlop Associates' sketch (above left) illustrates what happens when a condensate tray leaks, risking costly damage to the equipment. I noticed leakage in my ceiling after a technician rewired my brand new conditioner to run at a higher fan speed which forced more air into my house. But if there is insufficient slack in refrigerant tubing and wiring, moving the system to install a new drip tray is a big deal because you'd have to evacuate the system, cut refrigerant lines, then install the tray, then repair the lines and clear and recharge the whole system.
That procedure is so much trouble and cost that most folks will try to find and repair leaks in the existing drip tray first.
I suspect that the condensate drain is clogged - usually a little brush can clear a trap in that line - but yes, if you keep water from overflowing into the attic by any means you can keep running the system. Sometimes in the air handler the blower pushes moisture off of the cooling coil and off into the ductwork - common in very humid spots like Florida. Our condensation drip pan is not level, so the condensate water is flowing away from the drain hose and overflowing into our furnace instead of down the drain. A first step in diagnosing condensate dripping out of the air handler is to determine if the entry into the condensate drain or any later portion of the drain is clogged - if water can't get from the pan into and down the drain the pan is going to overflow. I haven't looked at PanCrete but will see if I can find and review the product literature; it's worth a try if it can seal a corroded condensate pan instead of having to tear the system apart to get a new one in place. Condensate drip tray replacement under an A coil in a cooling system such as the one you describe can be tight. Question: Blower unit won't come on - the condensate drip tray is filled up - is there a float switch?


Float switches are used in condensate OVERFLOW pans as a safety measure to shut down the system when condensate is not draining properly - to avoid a flood out of the pan and into the house ceilings.
Because you say your overflow pan has a separate drain pipe, I suspect it won't have a switch.
If you had an overflow switch you would see it and its wires somewhere in the bottom of the overflow pan. So you need to look for a different problem: lost power, a blower compartment door open (those have a safety switch that shuts off power if someone opens the door - to avoid getting chopped by the blower fan), or a bad control, relay, etc. Question: How Much Condensate Flow Should I be Seeing From My Air Conditioner - what's normal? I have noticed quite alot of water draining from my drain hose which comes from the unit located in the attic. And of course there is no simple "correct" condensate quantity because in addition to these environmental variables, the cubic feet and type of area being air conditioned varies from building to building as does the dehumidification capacity of the equipment.
DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS that if an air conditioner is over-sized it will cool the space off too rapidly and it won't dehumidify adequately. If those steps don't help and given what you've already checked, I suspect there could be a broken fan belt if your blower uses a fan, or a blower motor that's not working, or a bad fan relay or control.
My brand new attic ac unit is dripping quite frequently in a few places directly undeath the unit itself. Rebecca, not all condensate pans use an overflow switch - some provide dual condensate drains at different levels, or a second pan below the first one. If there were a condensate pan overflow switch you'd see the switch and wires leading to it right in the condensate tray. Thanks for the interesting question, though if this helps I have to say I can't make sense out of what you were told. If an outside compressor is not running the result is that refrigerant is not sent to the indoor cooling coil in the air handler - so air won't be cooled. But the outside compressor has no direct effect on the fan speed of the indoor compressor condenser unit. I'd think that if there were a safety circuit that shut off the air conditioning system on sensing that the compressor was not working at all, there would be NO air flow, rather than weak air flow. Hi, we have the overflow switch installed but the drain pan cracked twice within the last 4 years. My Ac and heat both aren't working all of the sudden the fan blows but it seems to be just circulating air not heating or cooling it.
The install price for a drip pan depends on the trouble of getting it in place - the pan itself is a trivial expense - along with the trouble of routing its discharge piping to a suitable drain location. A much less costly alternative that is fine for many buildings is to install a condensate overflow switch that will shut off the system if the primary pan is not working properly - say clogs and doesn't drain. Substantial growth in refrigeration and air-conditioning industry has made a significant impact on net energy consumption.
In this paper, the performance of an innovative evaporatively cooled condenser is compared with that of a conventional air-cooled condenser for a split heat pump system. In winter months, these fans can help reduce your fuel usage by recirculating trapped ceiling heat back down to floor areas.
A reader questions handling the high moisture level created by the shower and whether or not this will be a problem for a conventional heat recovery ventilation system.
I am installing a HRV system and I read on one company's web site that the exhaust valve should not be directly over the shower area. Certainly I could *imagine* that a HRV fan that has to handle high levels of moisture might not be designed for that application.
The unit is a Renovent made by Brink Climate Systems with a heat recovery efficiency of about 90%. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Using an Auxiliary Condensate Drain Line from an Attic Cooling Coil Condensate Overflow Pan. Condensate overflow or drip tray leaks, piping, and float switches can shut down an air conditioner or heat pump. I have cleaned the drain pipe and the air handler coil but the unit still overflows out of the coil tray. Your question is why the condensate keeps flowing out of the tray when you are confident that the drain is not blocked. I noticed a water spot in my bathroom ceiling and went upstairs to check the air conditioner being that it is right above the bathroom. But when you find an obvious leak like a hole in the drip tray, that's a good diagnosis for leaks into the ceiling. If the installer left sufficient slack (a flexible loop) in the refrigerant piping and electrical wiring, the system can be raised very carefully, disturbing the piping as little as possible to avoid causing a leak in the refrigerant lines.
Cramer, Tampa) point out that a small amount of condensate blow-off at the cooling coil and even small amounts of mold in that area (usually Cladosporium sp.
It can be difficult on many air handlers to get a new drip pan in place inside of an air handler without doing some disassembly. I was told the pitch of the pan needs to be adjusted- what is the best and safest way to adjust the pitch? A system that is operating in a dry environment or that has been on for some time may be encountering little moisture to remove from the conditioned air, while an air conditioner running in very humid conditions may pull an enormous amount of water from the air. Also when a cooling system is first activated after some period of disuse, as it removes moisture from the building air, more moisture from absorbent building materials (drywall, for example) continues to enter the building air until the moisture level in both air and building contents has been reduced to a stable level. A condensate pan overflow switch could indeed leave the blower OFF, as would a blower compartment door switch if the door was not fully shut - you'd want to check these simple conditions before paying for a service call.


I've also noticed that the area around my drip pan is saturated but the water level inside the pan isn't very high at all. For example a door safety switch turns off the indoor air handler if one if its opening covers is ajar. Condenser pressure is one of the critical parameters in the energy-efficient operation of refrigeration and air-conditioning systems.
The system was tested in an environmentally controlled test chamber that was able to simulate test conditions as specified by ASHRAE Standard 116.
How should a HRV system be selected when used in a bathroom, over a shower, or in other moist or humid areas. I have not come across this view anywhere else and I don't see why it should be an issue but I would be interested in your opinion.
In terms of space to access the unit this will not be a problem as it is going into a store room rather than the attic as the latter is little more than a crawl space. Other switches may have no moving parts: you'll need to remove the condensate and dry the switch.
But drip pans and their replacement take place inside the indoor unit, the air handler or blower unit - and have nothing to do with the outdoor condenser unit.
In other words usually there is either an overflow pan with a drain, or an overflow pan with a water-sensing switch that shuts down the system if ANY water appears in the overflow pan. I placed a bucket under the drain pipe due to the amount of water pooling around the foundation of the home. First of all, should there be dripping of this nature directly from the unit and not from a drainage tube, duct work, etc and what is causing the saturation around the perimeter of my drip pan with such low water levels inside it? I am trying to figure out how the overflow safety switch feature works and how to fix the tubing in case it is clogged. Rather, fis the reason for pan cracking and fis the primary condensate drain that should not be leaking into the overflow pan in the first place. A novel system is developed to use the condensate, available at the cooling coil, for condenser cooling of a window air-conditioner unit by employing evaporative cooling.
Tests to optimize refrigerant charge and short tube restrictor size were conducted using refrigerant HCFC-22.
There are no electrical connections at all associated with the valves as the air handling unit does all the work.
I put the exhaust valve in today more or less centered over the shower tray (it turned out to be trickier than expected in part because for some unknown reason the ceiling there had two gypsum boards doubled up).
Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Improperly connected or joined air conditioner condensate drain lines and overflow pan drains.
I went into the attic and can see that there is water in the catch tray but the kicker is that there is a small hole a couple of millimeters round at the end of the tray allowing the water to leak out into the insulation down the roof into my plaster ceiling. Usually there is a primary condensate collection drip pan connected to a drain location, and a separate condensate overflow pan and drain to handle the sort of problem you describe.
Performance testing of the system has shown 13% savings in energy and up to 18% enhancement in coefficient of performance. The wheel rotation speed of the evaporative condenser was also optimized experimentally to maximize the coefficient of performance. Galow specializes in residential construction including both new homes and repairs, renovations, and additions. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home.
The drip pan is showing a large amount of rust and I suspect pinholes in it, so the water is dripping through it rather than going to the drain. The maximum benefit of the evaporative cooling cycle over the basic cycle was found to be in the region of moderate climatic conditions. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home.
Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.
I have researched and found a product called Pancrete which appears to be made for just this problem. The main culprit appears to be that the safety switch wasn't working and when it was repaired the air blew out really hard.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Small amounts of immobile Cladosporium sphaerospermum sticking to insulation may have no detectable effect in the living area; Aspergillus or Penicillium in the same area would be more of a worry. I was told that the safety switch caused the outside unit not to run, only the attic unit had been running. This is a good question to take to the manufacturers to ask what design changes in air handler airflow control may be in the works. I had someone to take a pic of it so I'd at least recognize it if I see it but I haven't had any luck yet.



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10.07.2013 admin



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