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Here is a quick thing that any homeowner can do to greatly improve the look of any room with recessed lights. If you find this type of plug in you home it is time to call in an electrician This is the electrical version of Beta vs VHS . The diagrams on this page are for wiring a ceiling fan and light kit often used in a living room or bedroom.
This wiring diagram illustrates the connections for dual controls, a speed controller for the fan and a dimmer for the lights. This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the built-in pull chain.
Use this wiring when the source is at the fixture and you want to control the feed to both components with the same switch. Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The right size ceiling fan for your room depends on more than just the square footage or your area. As a general rule, you can start with the recommended fan for a given room size as follows: For a large room of 15'x15' or more, choose a ceiling fan with a blade span of 52, 56 or 60 inches. Usually there is a small sliding switch on the side of the motor housing that will control the fan direction. I just bought a new ceiling fan and will be mounting it in a place where there is currently no fixture. The wires running out of the right side of the junction box go to the outlet on the other side of the room. The black and black with stripe at the light are for the fan and light to be individually controlled.
I also want to add that you will not likely get enough slack in the wire that goes across the ceiling to make a splice. Back to the switch of concern: I can't tell whether the outlet or switch is the feed from the panel.
In note 3 of the switch info, it says, "This control requires separate wiring for the ceiling fan and fan light kit. I am looking through the fan assembly directions to see if they specify with more clarity the wires that come out of it and attach to my junction box. OP here: The light and the fan will be controlled from one single wall-box location (this is a bathroom).
Since both are being switched from a single location, why do you want a three-way switch in the mix?As for a three-way "common" terminal, it's not to indicate where the neutral would be connected, but indicates which terminal is used to "select" one of the other two depending on switch position.
As soon as either 3-way switch turns the power off to the fan, the remote will have no power to operate with. I think he just wants the remote so that when the guy is in his seat he can turn the lights or fan on or off and when he leaves the room via 1 of 2 or 3 doors he can leave the remote and shut down the fan via a switch. It's like using the remote control of your TV to turn it on and off because power is always on at the receptacle.


Hundreds of questions have been answered switches, outlets, circuit breakers, 3-way switches, GFCI outlets and more. Wiring arrangements for an electrical source at the switch and at the ceiling fixture are included, as well as controls for fan speed, light dimmer and a single-pole switch hardwired to control the light with a pull chain. These include a timer to control the fan, a single-pole switch controlling the fan, and an exhaust fan and light fixture wired on two different switches.
The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box. The source is at the controllers and the input of each is spliced to the black source wire with a pigtail. The white wire is no longer used for hot and the source neutral is run through to the switch box to satisfy the 2011 NEC requirement of a neutral wire in all switch boxes.
The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. Three-wire cable runs from the fan to the switch box and the source neutral is spliced to the white wire and to the fan neutral. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. The light is controlled with a single-pole switch and the fan controlled with a timer as in the previous drawing. Furniture, normal ambient temperature for the room, and ceiling height will all have an effect on the efficiency of the fan you choose. For a 12'x12' room, go with 44 to 48 inches of blade span, and for small rooms of 8'x8' or so, a blade span of 36 inches should do the trick. This function allows for more efficient cooling in the summer and for circulating heat in the room during the winter. As shown in my initial post, the blue switch wire is for the fan and the red switch wire is for the light.
Twin and earth wiring is required for all installations except those using a double wall control. However, If in doubt with any part of the installation procedure then please contact a qualified electrician.
As soon as either 3-way switch turns the power off, the remote & fan have to power to operate with.
The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box. The source hot is spliced to the red wire which is connected to the bottom terminals on the switch at the other end. The hot source is spliced to each controlling device and the output of the controllers are connected as in the previous diagrams on this page. If you're installing more than one ceiling fan in a room or hall, set the distance between the two at 2 times the blade span. With this attitude, a counter clockwise spin will force air down into the room creating a cooling breeze.


In most cases sliding the switch down will set counter clockwise spin, while sliding it up will set clockwise spin.
The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end.
The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end. The black wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch which runs power back to the fan where it is spliced to both the black and blue fan wires.
The black cable wire is connected to the top terminal on the switch and spliced to the black and blue wires at the fan at the other end. Clockwise rotation will pull air up to the ceiling, disturbing the warm air collected there and circulating it throughout the room to warm things up.
The ceiling fan i have has a remote control set-up and it only works with the remote setup because the fan has no pull chains to operate the light or fan. If he wanted to be able to override the switches with remote then he would have to have some kind of relay in the circuit wired to the remote sensor to have a perminant live come on when the light siwtch is turned off. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. At the other end, the black cable wire is spliced to one of the hot dimmer wires, it doesn't matter which one. The neutral source wire is spliced to the white cable wire in the switch box and to the white fan wire at the other end.
Might as well have no switch wired to it if the guy wants to have it fully controlled via a remote. The ground should be spliced with a short piece of wire and connected to each device and outlet box that has a grounding terminal.
The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end.
The other dimmer wire is spliced to the red wire in the switch box which is spliced to the blue, light wire at the other end.
The light comes on from the three different locations with the fan off, the fan works with the remote on all speeds with the light off. In these drawing the brass colored terminal represent the hot side of the device and the silver colored terminal represent the neutral. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.
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10.12.2014 admin



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