Woodworking Router Table System,Making Your Own Dresser,Boxwood Carving History - Plans Download

A Gas Filled Lifting Spring allows effortless tilting of the table top so the router can be accessed for adjustments. After I finally completed the assembly process it is a sturdy table that exhibits no vibration problems. Installing the router did take the longest to do, but I did drill through the top so I had an access hole for my Milwaukee router wrench. I HAVE BEEN WOODWORKING AS A HOBBY FOR 30 YRS AND HAVE USED MANY DIFFENT ROUTER TABLES THROUGHOUT THAT TIME.
Smooth Sliding Table Top: Exceptional features of this large table make difficult routing easy, safe and precise. Sturdy Stand: NEW foot design, additional cross braces, and splayed steel legs, give the table extra stability.
These hold-downs are a basic piece of steel with a nylon wheel to replace the spring steel hold-downs that come with the heavy weight router table. About the dust collection, I would say it lacks a little bit BUT I have used supposed high end systems that aren't much better. Mounting the router in the one-size-fits-all brackets was a challenge since you have no bolt pattern (like adaptor plates do) to positively center the router so it's all up to you. I've had this table for several months and unfortunately the more I use it the more I dislike it. The clamping mechanish that holds the router is a little difficult to use (support router and make clamps work), but I got it together and it works well.
I have not had the chance to actually use this router table yet because I'm building a movable base for it. Changing a router bit in the table can be tedious and difficult, trying to tighten the collet below the router table surface. This Heavy Duty Cast Iron and Steel Table has all of the added features for safety, ease, and convenience built-in.
I purchased this router table in exchange for the table saw extension router table MLCS offers, due to the cast iron not being flat. I went mostly by the front pic and the exploded view of the table to assemble mine, didn't have too many problems.

This "Rock Solid" heavy-duty, cast-iron, extruded aluminum and steel table has all of the added features for safety, ease, and convenience built-in.
I outfitted the table with a kreg PRS1010 36" fence and although their fence has great dust collection, I outfitted a dual port unit to collect from bottom also(no more dust on shelves. They seem to be written by someone who has put the table together several times and not for a customer who is doing it for the first time.
This simple tool with its bent design fits right in the opening of your router plate, allowing the collet nut to be easily secured. This one is nice because it does not have the insert plate, and the cast iron table top is very flat.
I have a Bosch 1617 and am having an issue with clamps and how the angle height seems to be too high and not touch the base of the actual router.
Iincludes all of the stand parts, new power switch and hardware needed to convert your table over to the new #9460 style. The steel bar should be made as wide as the spring steel clamp that is delivered with the router table. It was a little work putting the rest of the table together because the directions were not very well written or illustrated. The assembly instructions were probably the worst I've ever seen, and I finally ended up using a trial-and-error approach to get the table together.
I also can't adjust my Milwaukee router from the top since there are no holes above for doing that. Mine does not have the lift handles or the new gas lift spring and those would have been the only additional things I would have liked to have seen on this table as sometimes trying to lift the table top and hold the table up while locking the arms into place is a challenge.
I HAVE ALWAYS SAID THAT THE ROUTER SHOULD BE PART OF THE TABLE NOT PART OF A PLATE THAT IS PART OF THE TABLE (JUST ANOTHER PLACE TO VIBRATE) I HOPE TO PLACE A ORDER FOR ONE OF THESE AS SOON AS I SELL THE ONE I HAVE NOW. I recommend downloading the better quality PDF format and looking over these as you put the table together. There is only one clamp on either side to hold the fence in place, and the fence is not parallel with each other from right to left, which is just as bad as having a table that's not flat.

The fence on the TS extension router table was a good fence, wish they would have used the same fence on this one. I am hesitant to drill through the cast iron so that I can fit my wrench into the router from above. If they had used the same fence as on the TS extension table, it would be tall enough to mount traditional featherboards to the fence, which I prefer. It took twice as long to put the table together as it should have if the instructions were more in detail.
I am using a Milwaukee router underneath but can't access the adjustment knob from the top because there is no provision on the cast-iron part of the table. Removing and replacing the router with the clamps provided is not the easiest to deal with.
Way to much vibration and you may find that the vibration loosens the hold downs that are securing the router. Other than those simple improvements the table is awesome and I would recommend it to anyone.
This happened to me twice and cost me a $100 panel raising bit when the router fell out of the table. I used a wide piece of plywood and cut an opening for the router bit ,removed the fence and installed with two short screws using the fence mount opening. I no longer use an extension for big bits and have had no other issues with the router staying secure. The most frustrating thing was that none of my 3 routers (Dewalt, Mikita, and Rigid) had a long enough shaft to reach the table.

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