06 Jun. 1998|
Zar wood stain drying time,wooden kitchen workbench,free wood sleigh pattern - PDF Review
Another “breakthrough” product came to market five years later when UGL unveiled one of the first polyurethane coatings for wood, called ZAR® Crystallite Coating.
In the 1970s, UGL expanded its line of ZAR wood finishing products with the acquisition of “Beverlee’s” wood stains. While 20 shades of those traditional oil-based wood stains continue to be part of ZAR’s product line, UGL hasn’t rested on its laurels with stain technology. ZAR Ultra Max Wood Stain’s resin dispersion technology also allows the color to flow out more evenly on blotch-prone woods. Neary says “next generation” stains and topcoats aren’t UGL’s effort to catch up with the competition; they’d prefer to stay ahead of the curve, offering superior products that make the most sense to consumers and professionals. UGL’s broad line of stains and finishes are certainly resonating well with today’s repurposing and upcycling hobbyists. Woodworker’s Journal publisher Rob Johnstone demonstrates the versatility of ZAR wood stains on even challenging materials such as PVC, fiberglass and MDF trim in the video below. A visit to UGL’s website shows that the ZAR product line extends much further than the stains and topcoats mentioned here. NEW - ZAR Wood Finishing Products are well- known for their ability to beautify and protect all types of wood. Preventive maintenance like area rugs, floor protectors (on ALL furniture on your wood floors), and routine maintenance with proper hardwood floor cleaner should always be exercised (improper products can contribute to additional wear, may VOID your warranty, and cause failure when recoating. White spots from water can be rubbed out with a fine steel wood and a small amount of mineral spirits, re-wax and buff as needed to match. NOTE: Wood floors that have been waxed over and over through the years, may be a serious concern if refinishing (to bare wood).
RUST-OLEUM ULTIMATE WOOD STAIN: is a high performance oil- based stain system, that not only one-coat ultimate color quality, but exceptional wood grain highlighting. I started researching options a couple months ago, and 4 days ago found celticmoon's gel staining directions. I went back and got the water-based wood stain (rosewood), and have applied that to the last set of oak cabinets we have (in the laundry room)!
The guy at Woodcraft seems to think that I can use the general finishes gel topcoat (urethane) over the stained pieces and the painted pieces. Dh says urethane & polyurethane are basically the same thing, but urethanes generally aren't as yellow to start with. The reason that I need to put the water-based stain down before the gel stain is because of a couple reasons. I'm not sure if I have to sand all of the finish off if putting down water based wood stain.
So we used general finishes water-based stain (rosewood) to darken the wood and take care of any wood variations, followed by a few coats of general finishes gel stain (georgian cherry), which really smoothed out the open grainy-ness of the oak. I then applied one coat of Aqua Zar water-based polyurethane in semi gloss, then a final coat of Aqua Zar water-based polyurethane in satin (because we didn't want it too shiny). We just picked up the General Gel Stain clear satin top coat, and I'm wondering if we should have gone for the Arm-R-Seal instead.
I lost A LOT of sleep trying to figure out what kind of top coat to use (because I didn't want to have to redo in a few years if the top coat didn't hold up), and in the end just went to a specialty store, and let the guy there tell me what to use (the Aqua Zar water based poly).
I didn't sand off all the finish when I used gel stain only, but when I used the water-based wood stain (before gel stain), I did need to sand quite a bit to get the finish off. So, it depends on how much you need the water-based wood stain to penetrate (to cover the dark grain). If you are consistant with your sanding, then you won't have areas that take the stain differently (like I did). Crystallite was aimed at the wood flooring market, which up to this time had scant few options for durable topcoats that were also safe to apply. And, as we all know, those characteristics make poly the finish of choice for most wood flooring applications today. Beverlee was a West Coast finisher who, being dissatisfied with the quality of stain options at the time, developed her own brand of wood stains for the unfinished wood furniture market. In 2006, ZAR Ultra Max Wood Stains were developed to make wood stains easier and more pleasant to apply. Other water-based stains require pre-treatment with a wood conditioner first, but not Ultra Max. Intended for floors, cabinets, furniture and woodwork, this poly is also waterborne and oil-modified, which translates to benefits such as two-hour drying times and superior durability, plus soap-and-water cleanup and no dizzying solvent smells during application. It’s an all-in-one blend of stain and polyurethane in two sheens that combines the convenience of both color and topcoat in one application. That’s because, while consumers are gravitating toward the convenience and fast dry times of today’s waterborne products, Neary says many cabinet builders and professional woodworkers “are slow to embrace any water-based technology” and prefer oil-based products instead.
Neary says the ability of ZAR wood stains to go over previously painted or stained wood without the hassle of stripping it first is a major benefit.
UGL also offers wipe-on finishes, flooring rejuvenators, sanding sealers, interior and exterior water-based polys, wood patch, faux graining tools and even brushes. But, regardless of what your woodworking, remodeling or DIY product needs might be, Neary assures that UGL stands behind its broad inventory of offerings. ZAR products meet the high standards of the most demanding professional woodworkers, but are so easy to use that individuals with little or no wood finishing experience can enjoy great results the very first time.
Stubborn stains should be cleaned with proper cleaning solution as recommended by manufacturer, using a soft dampened cloth. Manufactured in our very own state-of-the-art facilities and available only at True Value stores. ZAR®'s controlled penetration brings out the natural beauty of a variety of wood surfaces without streaks or lap marks. I believe that you sand, stain (water based wood stain), sanding sealer, sand lightly, gel stain, topcoat (to be determined).
He also said, depending on how thick your glaze is, you might not want to work the finish too much because glazes don't get really hard - kind of like the gel stain. Congratulations on completing such a huge project, and welcome to the "Gel Stain Club"!
Yes, I highly recommend gel staining for anyone who wants an inexpensive change, but is not a staining expert. They’re a waterborne oil-modified blend using VOC-compliant resins, and Neary says Ultra Max is the closest resemblance to oil-based wood stains on the market. ZAR® Ultra brushes on easily to create a tough abrasion resistant finish for hardwood floors, cabinets, furniture, bartops, countertops, wall paneling and woodwork. I want something durable (we have kids), waterproof (especially for bathroom) but easy to use as I'm a newbie at wood refinishing, and my husband doesn't want to see brush strokes! Honest to goodness spar varnish, the kind used on boats isn't a good choice because it has more oil in it and stays softer.
If I had that to do over again, I would put a coat of polyurethane on it, let it cure a few days, maybe even a week, then sand it off and stain with the rest. I'm happy to be part of the gel staining club, and so happy that I found this forum after years of wanting a change.
If I had to do it out in a hot garage today, I think I'd have problems with the drying time. You have to go to Woodcraft or other specialty stores that sell the general finishes products.