07 Dec. 1998|
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A good workshop jig will hold your work accurately and safely so you can make consistent, repeatable cuts quickly.
When I need an absolutely square fence on a jig, I'll use a piece of straight-grained hardwood milled flat and square. For jigs that don't require the permanence of glue, use drywall screws or round-head wood screws. Some jigs slip out of adjustment over time, and you can't always tighten screws enough to bring the jig back into line. Many jigs are designed to work with some type of clamp to hold the jig down on the benchbench and form can be used interchangeably to refer to backless and elongated wooden seating.
For holding down workpieces in place, as on a tenoning jig or template-routing jig, DeStaCo-style toggle clamps are the ticket.
Whether building a simple one-use jig for the job at hand or a more complex jig to last a lifetime, choose materials wisely and take your time. When I need to glue up layer after layer, such as when I make a thick bending jig, I'll use particleboard.
Particleboard is a great, and inexpensive, alternative for building up thick bending jigs. Screw these in place or mount them inT-tracks screwed into slots routed into the jig base for clamping pressure exactly where you need it.
For example, my tenoning jig fits over the tablesaw fence, but I made very sure that the screws holding it together are above my blade-height setting.
Furthermore, the term bench has acquired the additional meaning of a work surface, such as a cabinetmaker's workbench."> or on a workpiece, to hold a stop block on the jig itself, or to hold a workpiece in place.
And, obviously, don't use a round-head screw where it might prevent part of the jig from sitting flat, pivoting, or sliding smoothly.