30 Dec. 2003|
Woodturning bowls lathe,cheap wood router,pallet wood wall art,watco exterior wood finish msds - How to DIY
This woodturning how to video shows how to wood turn a segmented knob on a wood lathe using basic turning tools. The YouTube woodturning how to video shows a woodturner tightening the segmented glue up into the lathe chuck and then turning a tenon. A star pattern of maple emerges in the woodturning how to video as the woodturning project progresses. Various grits of sandpaper are used to sand and smooth the wooden project of the woodturning how to video.
Finally, the woodturning how to video shows how a wood finish of Tried and True varnish oil finish is applied. Segmented woodturning is a joy for the wood turner and turning a salad bowl set on the wood lathe can be a rewarding woodworking experience. In the picture you can see the salad bowl halves of the segmented woodturning as they are glued. Once the wood turner is finished turning the wood bowls on the turning lathe it is simply time for any final sanding. Turning on a lathe is enjoyable and you will find segmented wood turning to be a fascinating process. Before I cut the staves for segmented woodturning, I always practiced making the angled cuts on the 10″ compound miter saw. As a wood turner I look back on this segmented woodturning project and remember this moment of learning this woodcraft. This sequel continues our study to learn of one of the great woodworking crafts, segmented woodturning.
After the yellow glue has set-up it is time to remove the masking tape and packing tape from the segmented bowl. Next we will determine the base size.To do this we will measure the outside diameter and the mortise diameter of the bowls sidewalls. After the base is cut on the bandsaw we will mount the base on the wood lathe so that we can turn the tenon to fit the mortise.
With the base mounted on the woodturning lathe we will take the segmented assembly and fit the mortise and tenon together. After the glue-up dries and the bowl structure is complete it is time for turning wood and shaping the bowl. After the wood turner is finished turning the fruit bowl he will then switch to sandpaper to remove any marks left by the gouge. The wood finish for the segmented fruit bowl started with an application of SealCoat and finished with three coats of satin Arm-R-Seal. Turning a 10" or 12" bowl from a reasonable well balanced bowl blank goes well, however, when turning a large out-of-balance bowl blank the lathe vibrates, actually, more of a twisting action of the main post.
The lathe works even better that my expectations, it's bolted to the floor and is very solid. After several months using the lathe and always looking for the wrench when I need to adjust the banjo ("now where is that wrench, must be somewhere under this two or three inches of wood shavings") I decided to upgrade the banjo. In this woodturning project a parting tool, roughing gouge, and spindle gouge with a fingernail grind were used to wood turn the glue up.
The tenon is then reversed and tightened within the lathe chuck so that the woodturner can woodturn the main body.
The lathe chuck still has a firm grip on the tenon, the wood lathe is turned on, and the finish is a applied using a paper towel. The staves for the segmented woodturning were cut on the ten inch compound mitre saw while the vertical spacers were ripped on the table saw and then sanded on the open drum sander.
In this woodworking video our focus shifts to learn how to woodturn the segmented fruit bowl.
When we have a good fit we will then proceed with the glue-up of the two parts of our segmented woodturning. The segmented woodturning video reveals a spindle gouge with a fingernail grind for much of the interior and exterior wood turning. Pay close attention to the different lathe chucks being used at various times to hold the wood. Since the star pattern is solid throughout the wooden block, the white tips of the maple star appear as white lines between the arched African mahogany on the outside perimeter of the segmented woodturning. While the wood lathe can be used to turn wood projects that are quite utilitarian it can also be a source for creating wonderful wood art. This is important as these joints will need to be tight fitting when the two bowl halves join together.
On the cover of this magazine was a unique segmented woodturning sculpture by a very talented segmented woodturner, Malcom Tibbets. As I started making this wooden bowl I realized the critical importance of getting the angles of the saw blade right for accurate compound miters.
Moreover, the making of these segmented bowls requires total attention to detail along with a commitment to accuracy from start to finish.
We will also be sanding and finishing the fruit bowl that contains 24 segments of which there are 12 staves of light walnut and 12 vertical spacers of dark walnut.
Other lathe gouges used for this sequence of wood turning include the following: A roughing gouge is used to remove the waste from the base exterior. There are 12 staves for this wood bowl and the angles have to meet dead-on for the bowl to be made successfully. As I look back I know that I have gained experience from taking on this challenge of wood lathe work. He will then tri-fold a quarter sheet and sand with that as the wooden bowl spins on the lathe. Here are images of two of the trees.The following images are of a beach ball sized cherry burl from this forest, an end-grain bowl blank cut and mounted on the lathe, and the bowl turned and finished. Also, the woodturner wants to avoid any splatter of oil as it is applied to the woodturning project. Join me and learn how a wood turner makes segmented bowls on a wood lathe using the creative techniques of segmented woodturning. This was wood art that was quite extraordinary and it was easy to see that Malcolm was pushing the boundaries of woodturning. I created more of a challenge for myself by adding vertical spacers of white oak in between the mitered staves for this wooden bowl.
This fruit bowl was sanded to 220 grit sandpaper and then burnished with the wood shavings. To prepare the wood project for finishing the bowl was then wiped with a micro-fiber towel to remove any remaining dust. I had to use lots of CA glue along every grain boundary and in the soft areas, but it stayed mostly together and will be a great bowl once fully dried, sanded and oiled.
This burl cluster was about 6 ft long and 4 ft in diameter and took all day to cut into bowl blanks.
Several months after getting about 15 bowl blanks from this large burl, I was offered a downed black ash tree that was full of burls.
I turn most of my bowls from green wood so this one has to dry for several months before finishing.
I turned four bowls from this piece, all end-grain so the outer rim of the bowl (the top) shows the contours and bark of the outer part of the burl.
The images below show the burl and several shots of the final bowl, which is about 18" in diameter and 5" high.You can see I have been busy.
I took a black ash log that was 10" long and 7" in diameter and mounted it sideways on the lathe with the foot or base of the bowl positioned on the side of the log. There is no limit to the way a log can be turned!The log is mounted sideways on the lathe and the profile is turned.The piece is hollowed out and the rough turned bowl removed from the lathe. There is an world wide market for burls but they are often so over priced I would have to charge so much for bowls no one would buy them. I realize the prices of my burl bowls are high, but I often pay over a third of the selling price for the burl itself. I had six students in my latest class and one of my three lathes broke down during the first day, causing us to work in shifts so everyone got enough lathe time.
Everyone made two bowls, one a large one, from different wood (black ash, red oak, bur oak, Russian olive, and butter nut). Thus bowls made from burls are special and have amazing grain figuring, and they also bring a much higher price, especially the larger ones. The finished bowl shows wild swirling grain figuring with many eyes, dark areas from spalting, lots of shimmering flame figuring, and interesting worm tracks and holes. Note the image of the bowl sitting on our full size dining room table and you will appreciate how large this bowl is. He will have his 100th birthday in October, 2013, and we decided to turn a large bowl for the party.
His grandson will inscribe some appropriate words and drawings on this bowl (at least that is the plan). I had a large piece of spalted box elder that seemed suitable for this purpose, so we began the birthday bowl turning process. Images of the rough turning are shown below and you can see that the bowl is indeed large, almost as large as Art.
I was concerned that the lathe may not have enough power to spin this very heavy piece, but no problem.I turned the outer profile of the bowl since Art was a bit intimidated by the enormous size of the bowl blank, but he got totally into the action during the hollowing process.
The foot of the bowl will be made in the center of the top of the burl which should give the best grain figuring. Note that the bowl was remounted with a chuck that grabbed onto the foot of the bowl so it could be hollowed out. This creates limitations for the size and shape of the bowl, but the bark is beautiful and an important natural feature of the burl. This bowl now needs to dry for a couple of months and be sanded and oiled which will bring out the grain patterns and colors, although the roughly turned bowl already looks very nice.I was given a small maple burl from one of the students in my last wood turning class. It had a very unsymmetrical shape and it took me a long time to figure out how to turn it into a bowl. The extreme unsymmetrical nature of the burl is very clear in these images, and you can understand the difficulty deciding how to mount it on the lathe. The foot of the bowl will be turned at the top of the burl, as shown in the image to the right. Try to visualize the top edge of the final bowl in the image to the right, and then look at the images below that show the bowl hollowed out. Here are some burls and the resulting freshly turned bowls, which of course must dry for several months before sanding and oiling to bring out the spectacular grain and colors.
There is no substitute for experience in making this decision!This burl is about 19" in diameter and the resulting bowl about 14" in diameter. The next example shows how an unsymmetrical gnarly burl gives a very differently shaped bowl.Note that the foot or bottom of the bowl will come from the left side (tail stock side) of the burl.