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13 Oct. 1991

Wood turning bowl tools,wooden walking sticks canada,diy deck chair free plans - Within Minutes

For some time I have found the Oland tool, designed by the late Knud Oland, to be my favorite faceplate turning tool.
Some people object to the Oland tool because it looks like a scraper and they want to make shavings.
To give you some idea of the utility of the Oland tool, here a few pieces which have been turned using it. I thought I would enter this post because I’ve already offered my opinion in writing to a tool retailer on these turning tools this morning. A few days ago I got an email from a friend wondering what had caused some blotchy marks on his bowl. After all the back and forth, Dave decided to bite the bullet and remove the original finish, re-sand the bowl by hand and finish it again as discussed in the email above.
This past weekend I hosted eight students from the Fraser Valley Wood Turners Guild; four on Saturday and four on Sunday.
Now the ultimate wood for turning at Highland Woodworking is outside in the enclosed space next to their parking lot, and you have to go to the store to shop for these also. Sometimes when I use it, especially with the Oland tip, I want to holler "Thar she blows!" and harpoon that wood.
While there is a place for carbide cutters like Mike Hunter’s Hunter Tools, designed for end grain cutting, the rest are no more sophisticated (other than specifically designed carbide material) than a normal scarper without the advantage of being able to grind the specific shape that you may require.
If you are having trouble with your turning, look first to your technique rather than the tool.


The slightest flaw will be magnified tremendously and all your work and a beautiful piece of wood could be ruined. We covered using a single colour and combining multiple colours – all on figured wood to enhance the shapes of the various types of figure.
Oddly enough, I was at another tool retailer this afternoon and the sales person asked me to help explain carbide tools to one of their customers. The question has been asked a couple of times for comments and opinions on the carbide tools from anyone who had tried them.
Since tapping a hole is little different than driving a screw, the procedure should be well within the capacity of any wood turner. I warned him that the tool might not be what the customer needed and as it turned out, it wasn’t.
So far, gross wood removal in bowl turning is the only thing that I have seen them excel at. In general, they are a tool (there are others like this) that treat a symptom rather than the problem. In the case of dyes, burning a line in a groove cauterizes the wood fibers preventing dye from spreading beyond the line. Flaws are magnified exponentially by dye and liming, so we had lots of fun sanding tools marks and tear out. Consequently this took up a lot of time to not only turn and finish the pieces but also develop the concepts that I employed.


There are areas where the wood looks clean and the finish is very nice, however there were cloudy, white areas arranged in rings or layers relative to the direction of rotation. The use of ferrous sulphate and ammonia-fuming to ebonize woods containing tannin was something that most had never heard of or at least never seen before. A rotary sander powered by a drill works well also but sometimes is tough to get inside small bowls. To understand how to colour wood one must understand a lot about the methods, but also about wood itself. The one exception is the Hunter tools that have a carbide cup (or similar), therefore has an extremely positive rake. This makes them excellent for end grain work, so box turners often use them when turning end grain boxes. He has another turner who provides smaller turnings but I am working on large turnings (up to to 24″ tall) and forms that are more on the unique side. Unless I’m applying layers of dye and sanding between colours I always wet the piece after the last grit, let it dry then sand it again with that grit, hitting the wood at a bias to the grain to knock off the fuzzies that stand up. Rather than sanding the whole bowl, simply concentrate on the tear out, blending it in to the rest of the curve (hand or powered).


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