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04 May. 1989

Wood stain wax finish,how to build a table base,woodwork evening courses kent - .

Many woodworkers turn to oil and wax finishes for their first attempt at finishing, and for good reason.
If there is one Achilles’ heel these popular finishes suffer from, it is their lack of durability.
Oil is made of molecules small enough to seep down into the wood rather than merely sit on top. To apply an oil finish, flood it onto the wood, adding extra to keep the surface wet in areas where the oil is quickly absorbed. Initially, I planned to paint the entire thing, including the cheap particle board top with the plastic paper-thin veneer with wood print.
I still need to give the table top another coat of wax, but here’s how the table looks now after staining the top and antiquing the base.
The mixture of vinegar and steel wool creates a chemical stain that is used by woodworkers to ebonize wood. It will stain your fingers, so wear rubber gloves and protect all surfaces you don’t want to stain.
Hi Kelly – I did light sanding on the table top with 160 grit sandpaper on a hand sanding block after I stripped the finish off. If you can’t find these products and want a driftwood stain that you can use water-based poly over without changing the color, you can use Rustoleum stain in Driftwood.
I have exactly the same question about the finish – we put liming wax on and it stains like crazy. You can put whatever top coat you want over the Driftwood Weathered Wood Finish however, be aware that most will turn the Driftwood color darker and some will turn it browner. They are easy to apply, give almost foolproof results, require no applicators beyond a rag and leave wood looking both rich and natural.
You would probably not choose a simple oil or wax finish for a bar top or kitchen table that will be assaulted with scratches, hot coffeepots or strong solvents, but they are perfect for bookcases, jewelry boxes, turnings, picture frames, blanket chests and a host of similar objects. Virtually all waxes will dissolve in mineral spirits or naphtha, which is handy to know should you ever need to remove wax, either from wood or on top of a finish. As a result, oil makes wood look richer and more translucent without adding a film on the surface.

The oil helps bring out wood’s beauty, while the varnish resin offers somewhat more protection against chemicals, heat, scratches and stains than either oil or wax.
But then I decided that those pretty little turned legs were worthy of a real wood top, so I removed the cheap top and painted the base. I agree that pine (and other paint-grade woods like poplar) can be tricky to colour without covering the grain pattern, but it’s possible. I spent about 10 minutes – enough to make sure the surface was smooth and even before applying the driftwood finish.
I would do a test run with it on a scrap piece of wood first – just to get the hang of applying and buffing it. I used it on chair seats and a mirror frame and it took both Minwax Polycrylic and wax without changing the color.
You can use white liming wax over it and buff to create a barrier, but it will darken the color a bit too. Turners especially love them because they adapt perfectly to finishing wood still turning on the lathe.
While a wax finish can go on any type of wood, avoid putting oil (or Danish oil) on aromatic cedar or any of the dalbergia woods (rosewood, cocobolo, tulipwood).
Some waxes are softer, some are harder, but even the hardest waxes are softer than lacquers and varnishes.
Most waxes melt at very low temperatures, so they don’t offer much in the way of heat resistance. For a smoother, richer finish, repeat the process, this time sanding the oily wood with fine wet-and-dry sandpaper. Between keeping up with my job at Dish and the rest of the household, I never have time to shop for staining supplies.
This will create a slurry of oil and wood dust, filling tiny pores and leaving the surface even smoother.
After a few more days drying it should then take a thin clear poly or preferably danish oil finish – one very thin coat per day.
I will let you know how it turns out….this may be another Monday project to finish in the future!

You just want light coats because all this is intended to do is seal the pores of the wood so it will take whatever stwin you are using evenly.
I even tried waxing a spot and then poly over that thinking the poly might not a sort and change the color so much but that didn’t work either.
I even tried waxing a spot and then poly over that thinking the poly might not a sort and change the color so much but that didn’t work either. You can apply wax over any other finish and it will give the surface a soft sheen and smooth feel, but don’t put other finishes over wax.
The directions on the can are excellent: Apply it liberally to the wood, let it soak in for 15 minutes, reapply, then wipe off the surface. I waxed the top with paste wax for protection and after one meal, there were water and oil stains. They will prevent it from oxidizing (turning gray) but don’t particularly enhance the wood. However, non-drying oils stay wet indefinitely, and they will wash off when the board is scrubbed with soap and water.
Use Watco either as a one-coat penetrating finish, or to add as many subsequent coats as you like. In other words, once a coat of clear wax dries on the wood, it will look like freshly cut, but unfinished, wood. Because they do not dry to a solid film, non-drying oils are considered a wood treatment, but not a finish. Applied no more than one coat per day, you can build up a finish as thick, beautiful, and durable as varnish, with no brushes to clean or brush marks to rub out. The good news is that a multi-coat Watco finish is durable enough for most anything you make, even kitchen cabinets or a dining room table.

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