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03 Mar. 1991

Wood planer hand held,green wood carving tools,woodworking drill press vise - Review

When I was breaking down yellow birch for the last production of moulding planes for Time Warp Tool Works, I ended up with one block about 3 inches square and 10 inches long, with a partial live edge along one surface.
I used West Systems epoxy to attach a lignum vitae sole for smooth planing and a hard-wearing surface. One of the most common questions I am asked is how I flatten the large pieces of wood I often use in my work. Perhaps one of the quickest ways to surface a board is to feed it through a thickness planer which removes material from the top. Unlike the jointer and thickness planer, hand-held surfacing tools have no capacity limits (but to require more skill and stamina). When I am faced with a lot of material that needs to be removed, especially over a large area, I start with my power planer.
After having done the preliminary flattening with the power planer, I use hand planes to refine the surface, removing any ridges or tearout. Hand-held tools, while not always as efficient as machinery, allow me to work with any size and shape of material I choose. To fair the complex surfaces of the wood, I used short-soled planes and sanders (some day, I want to make a plane with a 2-3″ sole specifically for this purpose). Of all the bench planes (bevel-down) I have acquired, the Veritas ones have been by far the easiest to adjust and for that, I love them. Three years ago, I made a new tote and knob for my Veritas #4 which is my favourite bench plane. Most woodworkers think of a block plane as a hand plane about 6″ long without a tote (rear handle) that can be held in one hand easily. One definition of a block plane is a hand plane with blade installed on a low-angle bed (commonly 12 or 20 degrees), bevel-up.
But I cannot think of any way to stretch the definition to include a plane such as this one. Here you will find Guidelines & Policies relating to participation in the Hip Pocket Aeronautics - Builders' Forum and Builders' Plan Gallery. Over the years I collected handtools for my own use, but I find I have far more handtools than I need , and understanding that you can't take it with you, I decided it is a good time to sell. There are several ESSAYS on the worktable, planes, cabinet scrapers, heat treating edged tools and filing the handsaw, auger bits for deep holes, and stone carving. Drill --- hand drill, "eggbeater"style, Millers Falls 2-01, Unusually nice drill, excellent condition, with chef's hat handle, hollow with 8 original bits. Screwdriver --- Yankee push-type straight bit drill, This has been called "The Curtain Hanger's Companion" because it works so well with one hand while the other holds the fixture up. Stanley Jointer Plane #8, the largest iron plane Stanley made, this one is from l902 and has the much sought after corrugated sole introduced in l898. Stanley #27 "Transitional" plane with all the fine iron adjustments atop a wooden base sole, very fine condition, wood is excellent. Stanley #102, an unusual and collectible "Pocket Plane" five inches long, 1.250 in blade, which I prefer to go to a user than to a collector.
HISTORICAL GIFT: OHIO Tool Company German-style Horn Plane, this does not show on their old catalogs.
Chair scorp with 5" slightly curved blade for working out the seat of a chair, excellent condition with handles, as new from Snow&Nealey, now discontinued. Eight inch faceplate for lathe with 1.250 spindle x 12 pitch thread, Has driver notch and four holes for work, metal lathe or HD wood lathe. Brass door hardware, vintage Set of handles for a large custom door, two 8" a pair with finger latch, two 6" pull handles, one slide door-lock, two heavy hold-open slide brackets, all heavy brass. Large antique chest for toolss, nicely refinished old wood, 12 x 12 x 32 with sliding tray.
Brace --- Lady's Pattern a fine old one from l830's, with fancy turned breast end, ball handle at crank, and solid square tapered hole for auger bit.

The Cabinet-Slick is tang or socket type chisel blade set up with a long handle (14 to 16 inches OAL) as a woodworker's carving and paring "mini-slick". Grenade Door Knocker --- This is a WW II dummy hand grenade used in my time for hours of hurling practice, mounted on a 3. Drawknife, --- 12 inch slightly curved blade, nice turned handles with tang going through, very sharp and the correct bevel on one side for control.
Electric testing --- GE 30 ma precision meter with reflective back against needle, in an elegant bakelite box with snap closing cover, leather handle. Grinder --- A hand operated sickle blade grinder for farm equipment chopping blades, ball shaped stone, sliding cutter holder, very interesting piece of farm equipment, very old. Mallet, large and heavy woodworkers mallet, large head with angled faces, handle let into square mortise and wedged at top, very old and fine.
Keen Kutter Hatchet HEAD---- Handsome KK head with embossed logo, very nice condition and better than this picture, quite clear and smooth. Horse Equipment --- Handled wedge for removing calks from horseshoe with a smart blow, 7in long, 18.00. Horse Equipment --- Hoof rasp, made by Sharp and Smith Pat 1902, handle slide extendible from 13 - 20 inches, a sharp rasp is inserted into the head, wood handle. Magnifying glass --- This is a two inch glass lens mounted on a frame which ride 9 inches up a rod which continuous hand wheel feed.
Nutcracker -- Before the turn of the last century Sargent, the tool manufacturing company, made this great nutcracker which gently but firmly cracks just the shell by pressing the 10 inch handle and drops the pieces into your left hand.
Plane --- Block Plane, the Stanley 110 was the early basic block plane with a screw in the cap locking the blade into place.
Plane --- Block Plane, the Stanley 220 (l898-l984) is more sophisticated than the 110, with its locking lever in the cap for easy removal and placement of the blade, and the fine thread screw at the rear for the blade adjustment.
For types of these Stanley planes, their use and values, take a look at Planes for the Woodworker , with a quick look at pricing. Plane --- "Craftsman smooth" , same size as Stanley #4 who made it '50's for Sears, in really fine as new condition with original box, chrome-vanadium blade. The so-called "'Transitional '= wood-sole Planes" were not, as the name implies, an evolving design between the all wood and the cast iron planes which we now know.
Plane --- Jack Plane 16 inches, all wood with blade locked with a wedge, pistol handle, made by Sandusky Tool Co. Plane --- Jointer Plane, Wood bodied, wedged blade, 30 inch long massive wood body has weight for smooth cut with razor sharp blade, long enough for perfectly true joints. 157.1 BENCH or jack mounted Jointer Plane LARGE This BENCH PLANE is 48 inches long, to be used with a through bolt to worktable or a horse, wedge set blade is near middle, with a fence to set width of cut. Stanley #95 Mortising and Butt gage, used for hinge and mortise marking, introduced in l897, this is older one with nickel plate, nice and very handy tool with no modern copy.
Saw s--- Disston Saw --- Disston D-8 saw , 8 pt excellent a fine example with full etched logo clear, good handle in excellent finish. SAW --- Small bench saw with 10inch blade,fine teeth and a finely designed open style handle with nice curves, pretty.
Scorp 6 inch medium curve for scooping out chairseats or any concave surface, as new S&N manufacture (no longer available), perfect new hardwood blade and handles, unused! Square --- Stanley metal square, 8 in blade in one piece cast handle, a convenient one piece square which is always more trustworthy than the usual sliding square on a ruler. Stanley Square Rosewood handle, this 12 inch length blade is hard to find, $35.00 nice clean blade, fine.
Wrench --- "Westcott" style which is like an angled modern adjustable Crescent, but much heavier duty and has a wave shaped handle to clear obstructions.
Longer and beefier than the #7, it is ideal for hand-roughing out valuable wide boards before going to the #5. These are designed for two handed use with a ball shape at one end to push and also rotate the chisel while the other hand guides the chisel right through the cut.

Hi-Temp handheld tool for applying intense heat to a small area, can be used to fuse plastic or melt anything down.
A sears or Atlas 36 in CC lathe is great for turning wood IF you use a cloth over the ways and forget the old adage that wood and metal must never cross on one machine. Manufactured from l874-1982 it is still a fine small plane for general use, with a long history.
They were made up to the start of WW II, and disappeared as an alternate to iron when the supply of tight and dry wood ran short. Many preferred wood plane soles gliding on wood, and the 'Trans.'= wood-sole planes (above) offered both the wood sole and all the fine adjustments and tilts of the blade which the iron planes had. The blade is marked "IOHN GREEN", a British maker of the last l775-90 period who made fine planes in London. If you want to have just one usable Wood bodied, wedged blade, plane to have around, this size is the best. The work is pushed along the stationary plane, which is straight and very true so it does work that a moving plane cannot do.
Emmerich Company, whose blade is installed bevel-down on a 50-degree bed does not qualify as a block plane, yet it is described as one. The two hands provide complete control over the cut, since the distance between hands matches the working position of the arms exactly. This is the original pattern with original wood handle factory-wedged in place, perfectly solid and strong, an answer to the Fiberglas or all metal hammer handles. This size is the most desirable for serious woodworkers as well as amateurs (Walters), enough length and weight for fine work. Many people preferred the feel of the wood sole gliding on their work, and these have the great advantage of being trued easily with pencil marks which disappear with a few strokes on a sheet of sandpaper laid on a tablesaw plate. But solid wood planes with the wedge continued to be made through the19th century, and have real use in the larger sizes which can be longer (and cheaper to buy now) than the iron Jointer Planes. For the hand-worker who does all without power this is the nearest thing to a machine jointer. Dozens of people have tried to figure out what this was designed to do, all have failed, usually with a mangled piece of copper tube or plastic pipe in a regretful hand. But what is amazing is that it was carefully hand forged out of a 12 inch horse hoof rasp (like one list above under Rasps), but in such a way that the rasp teeth on one side look like fish scales in the iron, which the straight cuts on the other side still show as angled lines. Unusual appearance of the dark wood, also a working tool with a fine blade and interesting to the feel. It has a T at the hand for connection to an airline forcing the flow of hot air out the air tip. A plane must be absolutely true to work perfectly, and Iron Planes will inevitably warm as casting stresses are relieved over the years.. Base true, this is a nice handling plane for serious work, has the length of the costly Stanley #7 or #8, and I believe a nicer tool to work with. These were originally used for horse shoeing, (still used for that) but are indispensable for removing wood stock fast. Tools are one LH, one RH, one point, and one curled curve, all thoroughly hard and will slice wood firmly. The iron planes above have been reworked for sole planarity, but may still move a bit, while these wood soled planes can be checked once a year and stay absolutely true forever. This and the next plane are the same length as the Stanley #3 and #4 iron planes, and have all the adjustments in the cast iron top plate and frog, but look and feel very different.

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