04 Jan. 2011|
Wood finishes wax,how to make shaker furniture,build wood retaining wall youtube - Plans Download
The first step in finishing cherry wood is to be sure that the surfaces of your project are as smooth as possible, whether you sanded, scraped or planed the surfaces of your project. Once you’ve done this, you can wad up your rag, dip it into the shellac and wipe on the finish. My hobby is the scroll saw and it always comes down to the fear of messing up my work with the finish.
For carvings that are finished with wax, the wax tends to build up in the corners, accentuating the 3-D appearance of the carving. Many woodworkers turn to oil and wax finishes for their first attempt at finishing, and for good reason. If there is one Achilles’ heel these popular finishes suffer from, it is their lack of durability.
Oil is made of molecules small enough to seep down into the wood rather than merely sit on top. To apply an oil finish, flood it onto the wood, adding extra to keep the surface wet in areas where the oil is quickly absorbed. In much the same way, many woodworkers envision themselves building these awesome projects, but few envision the thrill of finishing that awaits them at the end of the build. Wax is a great finish for items that are primarily put on display, but don’t get a lot of use. I have had a lot of success first applying a coat of shellac to the piece and buffing that down with some 320 grit sandpaper before buffing the wax on. I usually put the rag back into the can of paste wax so it will be there the next time I want to apply wax to a project. As far as the wax goes, that might be more difficult to rub the wax into those detail areas, but I would just hit those areas as best as I could, and let any irregularity in the finish be part of the final appearance. They are easy to apply, give almost foolproof results, require no applicators beyond a rag and leave wood looking both rich and natural. You would probably not choose a simple oil or wax finish for a bar top or kitchen table that will be assaulted with scratches, hot coffeepots or strong solvents, but they are perfect for bookcases, jewelry boxes, turnings, picture frames, blanket chests and a host of similar objects. Virtually all waxes will dissolve in mineral spirits or naphtha, which is handy to know should you ever need to remove wax, either from wood or on top of a finish.
As a result, oil makes wood look richer and more translucent without adding a film on the surface. The oil helps bring out wood’s beauty, while the varnish resin offers somewhat more protection against chemicals, heat, scratches and stains than either oil or wax. That helps build some additional protection into the finish while making for a much smoother surface.
Wax does not form a hard surface on your project, so it will offer only limited protection.
It’s pleasing to apply, deepens colours and contrast, and still leaves something of that raw feel to open grained woods.
You can spray or wet the surface with the alcohol, which will reveal any flaws in the wood. Like with the shellac, it’s better to apply multiple thin layers than one thick layer of wax. As mentioned before, shellac can redissolve in alcohol, so applying more shellac will invisibly blend the new shellac into the old shellac finish. But in many cases, shellac and wax provides a very easy way to finish your woodworking project. Turners especially love them because they adapt perfectly to finishing wood still turning on the lathe.
While a wax finish can go on any type of wood, avoid putting oil (or Danish oil) on aromatic cedar or any of the dalbergia woods (rosewood, cocobolo, tulipwood). Some waxes are softer, some are harder, but even the hardest waxes are softer than lacquers and varnishes.
Most waxes melt at very low temperatures, so they don’t offer much in the way of heat resistance. For a smoother, richer finish, repeat the process, this time sanding the oily wood with fine wet-and-dry sandpaper.
But, waxes have also been used as finishes and topcoats for centuries on wooden projects, and they are just as useful as today as they were all of those years ago. The alcohol will evaporate off in a short time after you’ve had a chance to check the wood.
This will create a slurry of oil and wood dust, filling tiny pores and leaving the surface even smoother. After a few more days drying it should then take a thin clear poly or preferably danish oil finish – one very thin coat per day. As you rub this cloth-covered glob of wax over the furniture, it will melt with the warmth from your hands and work through the fabric’s weave, applying a fine coat on the surface of the project.
Buff out the wax with a clean rag when you’re done, and then admire the beautiful finish you’ve put on your project. You can apply wax over any other finish and it will give the surface a soft sheen and smooth feel, but don’t put other finishes over wax. Keep working the wax into the piece, and you’ll notice a haze building on the surface.
The directions on the can are excellent: Apply it liberally to the wood, let it soak in for 15 minutes, reapply, then wipe off the surface. They will prevent it from oxidizing (turning gray) but don’t particularly enhance the wood. Use Watco either as a one-coat penetrating finish, or to add as many subsequent coats as you like. In other words, once a coat of clear wax dries on the wood, it will look like freshly cut, but unfinished, wood. Because they do not dry to a solid film, non-drying oils are considered a wood treatment, but not a finish.
Applied no more than one coat per day, you can build up a finish as thick, beautiful, and durable as varnish, with no brushes to clean or brush marks to rub out. The good news is that a multi-coat Watco finish is durable enough for most anything you make, even kitchen cabinets or a dining room table.