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26 Jul. 1998

Veritas large scraper plane,small computer desk furniture,project wood joinery,custom wood cabinets st marys ks - Plans Download

The Veritas Scraping Plane is used for the final levelling and smoothing of large, flat surfaces, even if they are highly figured, prior to applying a finish.
Given the fine cutting action of the scraping plane, it is used after the surface has been prepared as well as possible with a smoothing plane, not in place of the smoothing plane. At first glance the scraping plane, or indeed even scraping itself, can appear odd or mysterious. Sharpening the scraping blade is the most critical and difficult part of learning to use a scraping plane.
The bevel angle on the blade is ground at 45°, rather than square as found on card (cabinet) scrapers.
The body of the Veritas scraping plane is ductile cast iron and comes treated with rust preventative. We recommend that you initially, then periodically, apply a light coat of oil to seal out moisture and prevent rusting; this also has the added bonus of acting as a lubricant for smoother planing. If storage conditions are damp or humid, planes should, in addition to the treatment outlined above, be wrapped in a cloth or stored in a sack. I know of only one manufactured tool that meets all these criteria: the Veritas large scraping plane.
I find it is helpful to have several different modes to manage figured woods, including the Veritas scraping plane, bevel down and bevel up planes with a few different blade preparations and a toothed blade, card scrapers, and, yes, sandpaper. The two scraping-related offerings from Lee Valley Veritas that concern us here are their takes on the #80 cabinet scraper and the #112 scraper plane. The scraper plane is also a little larger than its competition, the usual slightly rough finish on the chunkier casting much in evidence. The scraper plane is a little more complicated because the blade angle can be adjusted from vertical to 25°, but the instructions take you step-by-step. As you can see, the adjustments on the cabinet scraper are very basic, and it’s hard to go wrong with them - even Stanley have yet to manage that.
Holding the cabinet scraper was a little different to the Stanley #80, and not just because of the increased weight. I couldn’t really separate the cabinet scraper from the Stanley for results, both were equally up to the task.
Interesting read that one - i was mulling over scrapers the other day, and scraper planes as i was looking to see if anything ever comes up on e-bay..
I am quite interested in the Scraperplane as I have a Burr-thday coming up (sorry, can't stop myself!

It's interesting to see two slightly different design approaches to the same basic plane design; the L-V using the blade bowing technique of hand scrapers, while the L-N uses a massive blade.
Because it has the same configuration as a bench plane, it is comfortable to use for extended periods of time and the large sole ensures the surface of a workpiece is accurately flattened. What the scraping plane does replace, however, is the need for sanding prior to applying a finish. The beauty of the Veritas scraping plane is that you can either change the pitch of the blade or apply camber to it in order to obtain the best possible cutting action.
The cutting geometry of the rolled edge on the scraping blade is not that much different from the cutting geometry of a bench plane with a well-set cap iron. Understanding how a scraper cuts (see above) and knowing what a properly burnished cutting edge looks and feels like are the key concerns when learning how to sharpen the blade. An angle of 20° or more will result in too much scraping and not enough cutting (producing dust, not shavings). All of this is a matter of personal preference, and there are many other high quality scraping planes available, most notably from Lie-Nielsen, that you may like better. The cutter clamp bar is a bit chunkier, the clamp and thumbscrews are brass rather than chrome plated and the finish is less shiny, but otherwise not a lot to differentiate at first glance. For the first time on a Veritas plane there seems to have been machining done for appearance sakes rather than any practical use, along the front bottom half of the sides. Again, you place the plane down on a flat surface, adjust the frog to around 5° and back off the thumbscrew at the rear. The scraper plane was particularly pleasant to tackle the task with; the weight gave it some real authority through the cut and the thumbscrew allowed me to get it cutting just how I wanted without having to fiddle with the blade angle. The cabinet scraper has one or two improvements over the Stanley, but whether enough to justify the price difference will really come down to the individual. It's worked a treat on some really difficult grain, and I find it comfortable to use for longer than you can hand-hold a scraper. This one is particularly interesting as I'm still toying with the idea of the scraping plane.
Because the scraping plane cuts the wood fibers rather than tears them, it will further bring out the wood grain, rather than mute it as sandpaper would. When making larger changes to the blade angle, be sure to reset the blade flush with the bottom to avoid moving the cutting edge too far below the sole of the plane. For corroded plane bodies, we recommend you first remove the rust with a fine rust eraser, then treat as described above.

Both are a little beefed up compared to their rivals, and both offer peace of mind, rather than pieces of plane all over the concrete floor, in the shape of ductile iron bodies. Unspecified hardwood handles on the scraper plane and brass screws on both complete the bit and pieces. If you’re new to cabinet scrapers than I think the anti-snipe design of the sole could really make it worthwhile. The Veritas is looking v tempting (but then that was probably the idea when Rob asked you to review them )Thank you so much Alf, such useful and informative reviews.
Use the scraping plane blade like a hand scraper to find the angle that produces the smoothest scraping action. Another technique you can use to set the initial blade projection is to place a single sheet of paper under the toe of the plane and set the cutting edge of the blade so that it is just resting on the work surface. Sighting along the sole of the plane, begin to tighten the thumbscrew in small increments that will put a slight curve in the blade.
You can fiddle about with tiny adjustments of the frog to alter the cut, or with the thin blade simply apply a curve to the blade just as you do with the cabinet scraper.
So, as the blade wears, you can tilt it forward, making it possible to keep scraping without having to stop and re-burnish the blade.
At this point, if the plane is no longer producing shavings, the blade must be resharpened and the frog adjusted back to the 5° starting point.
More important, this bowing pre-tensions the cutting edge, just as you do with your fingers when using a card scraper.
The scraper plane is a super tool; the blade bow option gives it a real edge over the L-N, but still with the thicker blade available if you prefer. Personally the rear tote design means I’ll be sticking with my slightly less user-friendly model from Maine, but if you can handle the Veritas (groan), then, dare I say it, I think it‘s the better tool.
Then just flip the scraper over, sight along the sole as you tweak the thumb screw to create a camber and there you have a nice curved cutting edge.
Insert the blade with the bevel facing the rear of the plane and the cutting edge resting on the work surface. Lightly hold the blade in place against the frog and tighten the lever cap knob (a quarter turn should be ample do not overtighten) to secure the blade.

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