06 Jul. 1979|
Stanley block plane manual,plans for welsh dresser,woodturning pen kits importers - For Begninners
More and more woodworkers are bringing power jointers and planers into their shops, often pushing hand planes into dusty corners. A sharp, properly adjusted hand plane allows a woodworker to peel a whisper-thin shaving from wood while leaving a surface of unsurpassed quality. A block plane handles many tasks, including some that would be difficult or unsafe to perform with power tools. The block plane owes its handy size in part to the shallow angle between the blade--or iron--and the sole. Even so, a block plane's cutting edge meets the wood at about the same angle as a bench plane's. A note of caution… low angle planes are a little more fragile than standard angle planes for two reasons.
Stanley missed no opportunity to make a dollar, and offering variations of their more popular planes was clearly an important factor in their strategy to dominate the industry. I suppose if you have extra big meat hooks, the larger planes might feel better in your hand. Asking what size bench plane is the best to buy is sort of like asking what size drill bit you should use. As the first plane one would use in preparing a surface, the Fore plane takes the most aggressive cut, removing rough saw marks and leveling out low and high spots, etc.
Try planes, more commonly known as Jointer planes, are those over 18 inches, and are most commonly 22 to 28 inches. As the name implies, a Jointer plane excels at truing the edges of long boards that will be glued together to make table tops, shelves, and carcasses. Understanding and applying the concepts of the three steps is far more important than knowing which plane to choose. By milling grooves into the sole of the plane, Stanley reduced the amount of surface area that contacts the wood, the effect of which was to reduce the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces. Whether or not using a plane with a corrugated bottom provides a noticeably different experience to the average woodworker is debatable, but the idea clearly gained traction (no pun intended). On your bench plane, unscrew and remove the frog and all of its hardware, including the lever cap bolt on the front and the adjustment plate and screw on the rear. On vintage planes, thoroughly clean all the threads of the screws and bolts to remove any crud or rust, and apply a little light oil before reassembly.
On your block plane, the frog is not removable, so you only need to touch up the seat with a firm sanding block to ensure it is flat.
On bench planes, the chip breaker, more accurately referred to as the Cap Iron, serves three important purposes.
Most cap irons, even on new planes, benefit from a little tuning to make them more efficient. On block planes, adjustments for use are a simple matter of properly tensioning the lever cap and setting the throat opening via the front adjustment plate (if the plane has one).
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Sharp tools are the key to success on this project, so check out episode seven of Getting Started in Woodworking for a comprehensive lesson on sharpening chisels and plane irons.
Woodworking hand tools, most notably hand planes and chisels, are some of the most useful tools in the woodshop. A block plane is probably the first hand plane you'll use when getting started in woodworking.
In episode eight of our free video series, Getting Started in Woodworking, we demonstrate some of the more common uses for the block plane, identify its parts, and show you how to tune up a block plane.
The blade on a block plane, (click to enlarge drawing) commonly referred to as a plane iron, is mounted with the bevel side up to produce a cutting angle of about 37 degrees in a standard plane and 25 degrees in a low-angle plane. Block planes range in quality and price from hardware-store versions that cost around $35 to high-end brass planes that cost as much as $250. Additionally, buying an aftermarket plane iron, such as those made by Hock Tools, can improve the quality of a hardware-store plane considerably.
This low-tech finish requires few tools, just some sandpaper, a sanding block, abrasive pads, clean cotton rags, boiled linseed oil, and furniture wax. You hold it in one hand, as shown in picture 2, with the rounded top of the iron cap (see the Plane Parts illustration, bottom right of the article) in your palm. Rely on the block plane to wipe out the wavy machine-milling marks on lumberyard stock, leaving it satin-smooth. WOOD® magazine's master craftsman, Chuck Hedlund, even sharpens flat carpenter's pencils with a block plane. These low-angle planes slice through wood more easily, but may cause tear-out along the grain. Position it in the plane's body, bevel up, engaging the appropriate notch over the tang on the adjuster, when applicable. Have a Stanley 103 block plane that was broken at the throat, brazed by an excellent welder, and works very well afer truing the base. 60, originally introduced with a rosewood front knob and no adjustable throat plate, was updated in 1902 with a brass front knob and an adjustable throat plate with an upturned eccentric adjusting lever. The iron should be sharpened with a slight camber (or perhaps none at all if used exclusively for edge work), and the frog typically adjusted with a fine set for thinner shavings than the Fore plane.
I can promise this, once you get the hang of a Smoothing plane, you’ll never want to pull out your random orbit sander again. Click here for free plans and a video detailing how to make a shopmade router table similar to the one featured in this episode.
Some block planes feature an adjustable mouth, which allows the plane to be tuned for different cuts; Close the mouth and lower the blade for finish cuts or open the mouth and extend the blade for thicker rough cuts.
While the higher-priced models are likely to perform better out of the box and include higher-quality machining and parts, low-cost block planes can perform well if tuned up properly using the techniques detailed in this episode.
A sharp plane iron is also a critical feature, and we detail one foolproof sharpening technique in episode seven of this series. And, among hand planes, the block plane ranks near the top for versatility and convenience. Clamp the plane upside down in your vise, and you can plane parts barely large enough to grasp, as shown in picture 3.
But, shaving down to the line with a block plane results in a nicer surface and a truer edge. If gaps appear between the back of the iron and the back of the mouth, or if the iron rocks in the throat, remove the iron and carefully file down the high spots in the plane. 64, which were only called block planes due the bevel-up orientation of their irons, we’re left with six contenders.
These were, generally speaking, the handyman’s plane of the day, and worked just fine for occasional projects such as trimming the edge of a sticking door or window. 18, enjoyed considerable popularity, Stanley also offered variations of both of these planes that, today, serve to confuse and confound new users and collectors of vintage tools.
That said, while you probably need a full set of drill bits in with a wide range of sizes, you certainly don’t need to own every size bench plane that Stanley ever made. To that end, certain size planes are better suited for a particular step in that process than others.
The Try, or Jointer, plane is used to flatten and refine the surface left by the Fore plane. Working both across the grain and in all directions, the Try plane leaves a perfectly flat surface that requires only final touch up with the Smoothing plane. I use the edge of my granite block for this, and change direction often to ensure I get a surface as flat as possible.
You can download free woodworking project plans for a handsome cutting board, a plywood workbench that you can build with just a few tools, and an elegant small box. Handplanes come in all shapes and sizes, and we show you how to use the most basic of them all, a block plane, to do the work. However, your success with hand tools depends on your ability to keep your planes and chisels sharp.
Instead of taking the door off to rework it, just mark the high spot and shave it off with your block plane.
I will probably spend a few hours getting the planes sharp and ready for the next huge task.
Unfortunately, Stanley’s incomprehensible numbering system did nothing to help matters, back then or now. In fact, you can accomplish just about every job you’re likely to face with just three bench planes. Planing bevels or chamfers by hand often is almost as fast as machining them, considering setup time. When any project part would fit better if it was just a smidgen narrower or shorter, the block plane can save the day. 65 is indeed an exceptionally well designed plane and a pleasure to use, using the same care considerations noted above for all the low angle blocks. To bring some clarity to the whole matter, here’s a brief breakdown of the variations of these two very popular models, the Stanley nos. Note that this sequential logic only applies to their bench planes, not their block or specialty planes. Aside from perhaps a little hand scraping here and there, the surface left by the Smoothing plane should require no further treatment.
18, both all-purpose, standard angle planes preferred for their adjustable throats and greater precision. Historical texts seem to support this moniker as well, as references to Jack planes extend back to at least 1703 (Moxon).
4 Smoothing plane, or the comparable size equivalent from one of the other major manufacturers. It helps ‘break’ the shavings as they rise off the cutting edge of the iron, thus preventing them from jamming up the throat of the plane. It’s smaller size also makes it more versatile for a variety of other day to day planing jobs.
Regardless, its length puts it in the Fore plane category, and its versatility assures it a place on the workbench. If you’ll use your Fore plane exclusively for prepping tabletops or dresser carcasses, the no. But since the point of this article is to identify the three core bench planes you’ll need for woodworking, the no.