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14 Feb. 1977

Scraping plane sharpening,how to make wood workbench,wood closet systems ikea - Review

Unlike handheld card scrapers, a scraping plane requires less effort, especially on large surfaces, and holds the blade at a consistent angle. As with any bench plane, clean cuts depend on a sharp blade, so sharpen a scraping plane blade as you would a conventional plane blade.
No one told me that setting up and using a scraper plane was a pain in the butt, so I didn’t think I had done anything special when I got my Stanley No.
Thanks for the great article on scraper planes and awakening us all to a tool we should all have been using long ago. The Veritas Scraping Plane is used for the final levelling and smoothing of large, flat surfaces, even if they are highly figured, prior to applying a finish. Given the fine cutting action of the scraping plane, it is used after the surface has been prepared as well as possible with a smoothing plane, not in place of the smoothing plane. At first glance the scraping plane, or indeed even scraping itself, can appear odd or mysterious. Sharpening the scraping blade is the most critical and difficult part of learning to use a scraping plane. When sharpening a thick blade, we recommend that you round the corners of the blade to ensure they do not leave corner digs in the workpiece.
The body of the Veritas scraping plane is ductile cast iron and comes treated with rust preventative.

We recommend that you initially, then periodically, apply a light coat of oil to seal out moisture and prevent rusting; this also has the added bonus of acting as a lubricant for smoother planing. If storage conditions are damp or humid, planes should, in addition to the treatment outlined above, be wrapped in a cloth or stored in a sack. Bevel-cut one end at 15° or the angle specified for your plane, as shown, bottom right.
Because it has the same configuration as a bench plane, it is comfortable to use for extended periods of time and the large sole ensures the surface of a workpiece is accurately flattened.
What the scraping plane does replace, however, is the need for sanding prior to applying a finish. The beauty of the Veritas scraping plane is that you can either change the pitch of the blade or apply camber to it in order to obtain the best possible cutting action. The cutting geometry of the rolled edge on the scraping blade is not that much different from the cutting geometry of a bench plane with a well-set cap iron. An angle of 20° or more will result in too much scraping and not enough cutting (producing dust, not shavings).
Because the scraping plane cuts the wood fibers rather than tears them, it will further bring out the wood grain, rather than mute it as sandpaper would. When making larger changes to the blade angle, be sure to reset the blade flush with the bottom to avoid moving the cutting edge too far below the sole of the plane.

For corroded plane bodies, we recommend you first remove the rust with a fine rust eraser, then treat as described above. Use the scraping plane blade like a hand scraper to find the angle that produces the smoothest scraping action. Another technique you can use to set the initial blade projection is to place a single sheet of paper under the toe of the plane and set the cutting edge of the blade so that it is just resting on the work surface. Sighting along the sole of the plane, begin to tighten the thumbscrew in small increments that will put a slight curve in the blade. So, as the blade wears, you can tilt it forward, making it possible to keep scraping without having to stop and re-burnish the blade. At this point, if the plane is no longer producing shavings, the blade must be resharpened and the frog adjusted back to the 5° starting point.
Insert the blade with the bevel facing the rear of the plane and the cutting edge resting on the work surface.
Lightly hold the blade in place against the frog and tighten the lever cap knob (a quarter turn should be ample do not overtighten) to secure the blade.

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