18 May. 1980|
Sanding wooden countertops,wooden table plans for an xl egg,plans for oak tv stand,woodshop dust collector setup - PDF Review
We learned very early on that solid wood counter owners must maintain vigilance over what is placed directly on the countertop (no hot pots or pans) as well as the required use of cutting boards at ALL times. In other places I had some magic marker stains that came from a wet paper that had transferred the ink deep into wood grain.
Now because I know that at least some of you have probably lost your goggles, I did my best with this next photo to block out all of the surrounding visual clutter so that you can just see my countertop. They’re definitely cheaper than even the pre-formed laminate countertops that they keep in stock at home improvement stores!
If you missed the other posts on how I built this solid cedar countertop, you can see the actual building process here, followed by the sanding and cutting to size here. I personally would go ahead and apply the polyurethane to protect the wood while you work on the shelves, and save the final coat until the project is all finished. I then gave the countertops a very good scrub so I could see what I was working with and also to prevent unnecessary clogging of my sandpaper. I used the wood oil that is recommended by IKEA for the solid beech wood kitchen counters and is safe for contact with food.
May I just say that that front piece of wood, the front-most plank in the middle, has absolutely gorgeous grain!
I am doing a very similar project and I was waiting to see how you attached the wood top to the wall and cabinets below. The fact that you knew to use wood conditioner before staining, and that you sanded the sharp wood edges shows that you are doing professional -quality carpentry! My Hubs brought home an old wooden ice box that I am refinishing, but I couldn’t figure out what color I wanted to do it. After letting the counter completely dry after a couple hours and raising the wood grain a bit, I got to work with my orbital sander. I stir it well and then pour some into a container so that I can liberally apply the oil with a rag to one section of the countertop at a time. The last step was to wait for 24 hours to allow for all three coats of oil to dry dry into the counters and the remaining grains (not much after all of the sanding) to shrink back to their normal size.
First of let me tell you, I don’t know anything about wood haha, but I see you used it in your kitchen and now your bathroom.
I started with sandpaper that had a grit grade of 60 to evenly chew away not only the marks, but the entire counter surface so that the remaining layer of oiled wood would be gone and so I wouldn't be left with areas where water can have a chance to pool and sit. My dad, who has way more experience in this kind of stuff, made me seal the wood after staining (cuz I was also painting something over the stain) honestly I can’t tell you more about the sealer it was in an unlabeled can. Then when I applied the coat of polyurethane on top, it first looked gorgeous while wet, but it dried sorta white and you could barely see the wood grain underneath.
It can make soft woods look more like hardwoods, because it makes the grain less contrast-y. I have now completed my fifth total sanding and oiling of the beech counters and while I see it as a labor of love, I can partially appreciated why people tend to go with laminate countertops or marble.