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12 Mar. 2007

Poplar wood stained walnut,making a small wood lathe,diy shelf designs - Try Out

Our American Walnut Wiping Stain is a thin grey – green color that slightly darkens the wood and moderately darkens the grain.
Wiping stains are applied by spraying the stain onto the product and immediately wiping off the excess material with a rag. WalzCraft does not stock color block samples in this particular wood species and stain combination. WalzCraft sells only to Custom Cabinet Makers, Cabinet Refacers and Woodworking Professionals. When a large batch of poplar mouldings is stained way too dark, you have only a few practical options for fixing things. We recently hired a finisher to come in and stain 3000 linear feet of poplar crown molding and base board in our shop. We're talking about poplar here, so my guess is your most cost effective thing to do is to stash what you have away and use it later for paint-grade work that will be using an oil or waterbase (you can't lacquer easily over poly). In the past I have been forced to clean up a couple of projects that a bad finisher stained too dark. Yes, you can *sometimes* get away without sanding when staining that much stuff, but as a rule you need to require your finishers give everything a scuff sand prior to staining. I think you have been set on the right track with the options of remolding or replacing with new wood. A quick Google search turned up a company who will provide stained, finished poplar moldings at a cost of $1.22 a running foot.
The washcoat takes a little more time, but gives better control over penetration of the wipe stain. If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Maple and other similar types of wood are very poor at absorbing stain when sanded smoothly.

The middle piece was sanded with 80 grit through 600 grit sandpaper, the grain then raised, and then stained.
The bottom piece was sanded with 320 grit sandpaper and then 1 through 5 applications of stain were applied.
Notice that the gel stain is much less blotchy than the penetrating stain especially when the grain is raised.
Maple and other similar types of wood, for example Poplar, are very poor at absorbing stain uniformly.
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioners and various types of stain are available to improve uniform stain absorbtion. The major issue with this method is that the wood surface must be sanded evenly after sealing to produce satisfactory results.
As can be seen in the photos above, the most uniform staining results appear to be those treated with the Sanding Sealer. The smooth texture and fine grain of poplar make it a great choice for any project that will be painted.
For a color sample, we recommend ordering a small sample drawer front or door in this wood species and stain. We highly recommend ordering an actual product sample of the species and stain color to eliminate any confusion.
Poplar stains very, very dark, almost as bad as basswood, and if it isn't pre-sanded with at least 150 grit (I prefer 220 for poplar and basswood) it will come out ridiculously dark like you have.
He told us that poplar doesn't need to be sanded prior to stain, however other people told us it did.
Just for the record, if you want your stain to come out relatively even, and your mouldings are not freshly milled up with sharp blades, all wood needs sanding. But with a dark stain, mouldings that come from a supplier and not our own well-kept machine, and mouldings with chatter marks (which I can see even in the picture with the sanded piece) - they always need sanding.

We originally thought about trying to re-mill the stained pieces and I am going to look into that to see if the manufacturer will do that for us.
I confess to using Minwax stains sometimes, but only when I have to match a known Minwax color and even then, I upcharge for the extra dry time it takes to use them properly. I just did a set of replacement doors for a customer and it was amazing how much it did resemble walnut. A little extra insurance when you are finishing bare wood that has some machine marks and may not be prepped to furniture quality. You may be able to fool someone who does not know wood, but anyone who really knows what they are looking at could tell the difference between stained poplar and walnut from across the room.
I use a fine grit sanding sponge just to make sure the grain is consistently open to accept stain. I have also used it for "poor man's cherry." With me, coloring is not the problem with poplar - it's fuzziness and softness. Pigmented stain after that will add depth and grain definition, so I might stain right over the dye, or I might choose to spray a washcoat of 1# cut shellac over the dye and then do my wipe stain with a professional fast dry stain like SW Sherwood line. We always wash-coat poplar before staining to minimize blotching and control stain penetration. There are other inexpensive woods to choose from that would make a much better choice for a stain grade finish.

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