12 Nov. 1979|
Parts of a wood lathe diagram,cnc machine for wood cutting,cd rack design brief,corner pergola plans free - Review
Woodturning has progressed enormously in recent years and is now no longer just a means of producing functional items, but is fast approaching the status of an art form. There are lots of very cheap lathes on the market that all look the same and appear to give you a lot for your money, photo 1.
For this reason, it’s better to buy a lathe that is cast rather than fabricated, but this inevitably often involves greater cost. A professional turner will probably need a heavy-duty floor-standing lathe, but for the home woodturning enthusiast a bench-mounted model will probably be quite sufficient, photo 4. A homemade wooden bench is often better at absorbing vibration than a crude metal stand, and it can change the whole operation of the lathe. I would rate this swinging head as an essential feature on a lathe; the real advantage is not only for bowl turning, but also for any turning where you have to work over the bed.
This which means that you can then take all your threaded accessories with you, rather than renewing them with the lathe when you upgrade it. It is essential that your lathe is also equipped with Morse tapers in both headstock and tailstock.
There is a huge range of Morse taper kit on the market, but if you buy a lathe with only screw-on fittings you are very restricted as to what you can use. A small lathe will need a motor of at least 1⁄3hp, particularly if you envisage turning bowls, but bigger is better in this case.
This needs to be as substantial as the rest of the lathe, as it has to provide fi rm support for between-centres work.
The tool-rest assembly is another vital part of the lathe, the main requirement being that it is quickly and easily adjustable. If you want to do a bit of everything, try to decide on the biggest diameter you want to turn and choose a lathe accordingly. Above all, bear in mind that woodturning is an addictive hobby, so try to buy in as much spare capacity as you can afford now to save expensive upgrades later on.
A tool used to turn blocks of wood into bowls, vessels, pens and various furniture parts and art pieces. To fuel this massive increase in popularity and demand, many woodworking machinery manufacturers have hurriedly added lathes to their range, but a good machine requires a number of essential features that are often overlooked in the rush to get new equipment onto the market. Vibration is the woodturner’s worst enemy, particularly if the workpiece is long or out of balance, and there is nothing to beat sheer weight to minimise this vibration.
However, do remember that unlike a lot of other machines, you will often spend hours working at the lathe. If you are short of space in the workshop, you can build in a lot of storage for tools or raw materials under the lathe, which also helps to give the structure a bit more mass, photo 6. A small bearing spread like this will causes problems with rigidity, particularly on large diameter work, so always look for a machine where there is plenty of distance between the bearings. On many smaller lathes, a thread size of ¾in x 16 tpi is the industry standard, which makes upgrading your machine less costly. Morse tapers are commonly No 1 or No 2 on the smaller lathes; the bigger the number the thicker the taper.
This is usually reserved for the top-of-the- range lathes, but in the past electronic speed variation has suffered from loss of torque at low speeds. However, if you engage reverse with a piece of faceplate work, there is always the possibility that it will unscrew itself, so lathes with reverse should feature a faceplate locking system. The actual locking mechanism varies from machine to machine; some use a simple clamp and lever under the bed, whilst others use a cam type of lock, photo 26, which is easier to use as it is accessed from the front of the lathe.
If you anticipate being an occasional user making a few simple furniture parts, then a basic model is all you’ll need. Bear in mind that the performance of your lathe depends on how well it is mounted, so buy a leg-stand only if it looks man enough for the job. But if you think you will spend a lot of time at the lathe as your skills and ambitions grow, then you will need the extra power and weight of a larger machine. Incidentally, lathe dimensions are still mainly given in imperial measurements; for metric buffs the equivalents are 760 and 915mm.
So if you finished the last job at top speed and now want bottom, you firstly have to switch the lathe on and reduce the speed before you can mount the work, all of which is a bit fiddly and time consuming.