16 Jun. 2011|
Minwax wood finish not drying,exotic timber veneers,cabinet drawer making,diy garden bench seat - PDF Review
I stripped my cabinets and applied three coats of stain, but the cabinet doors still feel sticky after two days of drying. If you used a penetrating oil stain, you may have allowed the stain to build up too thick a coat on the surface of the wood. To remove excess oil stain from wood, simply apply another coat of stain, allow it to soak in for a few minutes, then wipe it off.
In either case if the tackiness doesn’t go away, wipe the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove most of the stain, let it dry thoroughly, then try again using a fresh can of stain. Miniwax polyshades is little more than tinted polyurethane, so your drying problem has to do with the varnish type finish not drying rather than the stain. I used a minwax stain poly mix on a 5 yr old dresser, sanded the dresser down and then applied two coats per the directions, allowing for drying in between and doing the whole thing on my outside deck.
I sanded and cleaned my kitchen cabinets, I applied stain and notice they have a white film on them. I sanded, stained & varnished an old bathroom cupboard recently but noticed one drawer was still sticky days after the other parts were dry. I am working on building a drawer with fresh wood and like the original poster had to leave quickly before wiping excess stain off the drawer facing.
I lightly sanded my medium oak bathroom vanity and stained it with Minwax stain and finish yesterday.
My problem with Minwax is that, applied thinly enough to dry, it doesn’t stain very much and certainly cannot equate to the surface color I am attempting to restore.
I have taken a end table and sand it down to the wood, the stain did not take all over like it should of, so I put it on thicker and it did not dry. It sounds like the wood may not have been sanded down enough and pores in the grain may still be sealed and are keeping the stain from penetrating. I recently purchased Minwax Water Based stain (honeydew color) and Minwax pre-stain conditioner for applying on my stripped kitchen cabinets.
We are doing a quick fix on a house and did not sand the floors before we stained, so of course the floor is still very tacky. Finishing wood for interior applications serves the functions of (1) protecting the wood (mostly from liquids) and (2) enhancing the appearance of the wood. The plastic look people are referring to when they assert this claim is the result of high reflectivity or "gloss." It is just as accurate to say that wood that is finished with a high-gloss surface has a "wet look" or has a "glass look" (indeed, these adjectives are sometimes used to market wood finishes). Folks, all of these finishes are polymers, meaning they are comprised of long strings of carbon and hydrogen atoms, usually with some oxygen atoms thrown in. I am willing to bet that if one were to do an environmental lifecycle analysis of a quart of conventional petroleum-based urethane wood finish and compare it to a quart of some exotic tung-oil-based finish, the urethane would probably come out ahead. If you want a finish that penetrates a bit deeper, imparts more contrast to the grain in the wood, and is a little tougher, then use an oil-based polyurethane finish.
First, the most important variable in determining finish quality is your care and patience. Minwax Polycrylic (available in different sheens) - very fast drying, doesn't smell bad, cleans up with water, inexpensive.
Minwax Fast-Drying Urethane (available in different sheens) - I like the appearance (darkens wood more than acrylics).
Waterlox Original Tung-Oil Finish - this strikes me as quite similar to the Sutherland and Welles finish.
If you want to read some some interesting descriptions of finishes by those who are really obsessive about them, check out these notes by Russ Fairfield on finishes. Any excess stain will redissolve and come off, leaving only the stain that penetrated into the wood. Remove the remaining stain by wiping the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha (be sure you have plenty of ventilation and don’t work around open flames), followed by wiping with a clean cloth.
My guess is that either the can of finish was bad or that it was very humid when you applied it.
My neighbor ,who’s going to help me come spring, says you can but only if there are puddles left over not being wiped away. The oak cabinets were sanded down to the wood very smoothly using 220 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. Basically, to get a great finish, you need to start with wood that is sanded very smooth (with at least 220 grit sandpaper). Your first coat of finish is hopefully penetrating the surface of the wood somewhat and forming a composite layer of cellulose and the polymer that develops when the finish dries. The manufacturer makes pretty outlandish claims, mainly that this finish can be applied in a single wipe-on coat, and that it protects against water, etc. Allow the wood to dry completely, sand the piece down to bare wood, and apply a coat or two of stain, wiping off any excess.
Your best bet is probably to strip the side again and apply a fresh, thin coat of polyurethane from a new can when drying conditions are favorable. Tonight, after about 24 hours, the dresser is still tacky and is not as dark as we’d like. I thought it was the humidity so i put it in an air conditioned room for two days and still not dry. Other than being too glossy for me (yes, plastic-y despite being a "natural" finish), it worked fine. Honestly, I think the reason some of the niche products survive is that there are lots of myths and superstitions about finishes, and because very few people try several different products side by side.
This can also happen if the wood wasn’t stripped and sanded completely down to bare wood, since the stain will sit on the surface rather than soaking into the wood. If you try to finish over it with a brush, some of the stain will probably come off on the brush and give the surface an uneven look. In some places it has absorbed into the wood and other placed it is shiny, but dry and not tacky to the touch.
I sanded where they wer worn but not down to bare wood every where but all were sanded some. This particular stain, unlike others I’ve used in the past, did not say to wipe off any excess stain.
I used a medium size paint brush, I stroked the table back and forth and I noticed on one side of the table it was darker in some areas and dry spots in other areas.
You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane (such as Minwax PolyShades).
Due to the fast drying time of water based stains, I apply the stain with a bristle brush and about 15 seconds later wipe off with cheesecloth. The environmental footprint of the original feedstock from which the finish was made is probably pretty much irrelevant. Realistically it takes two days of elapsed time to put even a basic finish on wood, even with a "fast drying" acrylic finish.
It must be applied in very thin layers (wipe on and then rub off) or the tung oil will not dry in a reasonable amount of time. The dry time is not as good as the Minwax wipe-on urethane, and it's expensive, so I don't see a reason to use it over the Minwax. You could spray several light coats of finish over the stain, but the adhesion between the finish, stain, and wood will not be very high.
Furthermore, most finishes are available in low-gloss versions, usually called "satin." So, the "plastic look" and the type of finish that is used on the wood are really two separate issues. Consider that roughly speaking a gallon of petroleum can make somewhat less than a gallon of wood finish and somewhat less than a gallon of gasoline. I like the wipe-on version because it has quite low viscosity, so is easy to apply, and seems to penetrate the wood very well. The finish is designed for easy application with a cloth, natural-bristle brush or foam applicator. So I sanded it down with a 220 before my second coat of poly and all the stain came right off where the blemish was it’s not large maybe the size of a dime. I don’t want to take the chance and stain the whole cabinet door right away due to the fast drying time.
As a technical aside, virtually all wood finishes are polymers (molecules comprised of long chains of carbon and hydrogen molecules), which is a technical term that includes all "plastics." In fact, wood itself is a polymer (cellulose). Your drive to Home Depot and back to buy the wood finish therefore probably consumed more petroleum than was used to make the finish itself. The wipe-on version does not show any brush marks and can be applied with a rag, so you don't have to clean up a brush with turpentine.
This polymerization is inhibited if the layer of oil is too thick.) This finish is expensive and has limited distribution.
If it’s not dark enough, use a darker stain, or mix two stains together to get the color you need.
I only did a small section when I noticed so I stopped but that small sections has some very light streaks in it.
If it’s still not dark enough, apply one or two coats of the proper shade of Minwax PolyShades, which has colorant in it. It is unusually cold here yesterday and today- therefore I have not opened the windows for additional ventilation. Many finishes are thin enough that they work fine as sealers so you don't need to use a special product for the first coat.