13 Apr. 1991|
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At the time I was using Annie Sloan’s Chateau Grey as the base and I used Minwax Dark Walnut for the stain.
When doing this set I originally planned to just stain over the sanded down table top but it didn’t have the depth that the client was looking for. Which then leads me to the latest project where everyone wanted to know if it was stained or painted… Well both!! I could not get a decent shot of the chest of drawers in my daughter’s room after it was painted– the room was too narrow to get a better angle. I find a sanding block the best and easiest way to sand the surface of the furniture to rough up the finish so the paint has something to adhere to. If you are painting over a piece that has knots or smells like pine or is bare wood – use Kilz. Once dry – buff with a very soft cloth using circular motions until when you wipe over the surface it feel slippery or smooth.
If you don’t need to use the piece right away – let it sit for a few days before using so the paint can cure. I would not paint the drawer guides, it would cause problems – just wash them well with TSP or wood cleaner and dry them off quickly. It sounds like you did not use a good primer or the paint needed more time to cure before you used the newly painted piece.
After reading this post, I can’t wait to paint the dresser for my baby’s nursery! As far as the primer in the paint being OK to use on the dresser…If the dresser is old wood, tannins could still bleed through the wood if the primer is not a stain blocking type. Color preferences and tastes in home decor vary from person to person, and styles change over the years.
So we sanded down the stain and painted it with Annie Sloan Coco and applied Minwax Jacobean to the top. Sanded in some places allowing the dark stain from below the chalk paint to show through in spots and it really developed a layered rustic look.
We had painted some kitchen cupboards and found that the rim surface was completely uneven and looked very poor indeed. This is very detailed and it answered a lot of questions that I had when I decided to paint the dresser. If you use very light coats – 1 quart may be enough depending on the size of the dresser and how well the paint covers.
If you have dark wood where you would prefer a brighter, lighter environment, you don't have to grin and bear it merely because you've been told it is impossible to paint light over dark successfully. Use a primer that is compatible with the underlying stain formulation, and follow that with a topcoat paint that is compatible with the primer.
A sealer adds a protective coating to the painted finish, and you apply it with a brush or roller as you would a coat of paint.
The trick of painting just a little way into the cupboards has made a more professional finish to our work.
Since they will be getting a lot of use I wonder if I should poly coat when I have finished painting. I always like to use a stain blocking primer on old furniture to make sure the previous stain and or poly finish does not change the color of the paint. I am in the middle of painting a 30 year old wooden dresser, chest and nightstand with a total of 15 drawers. The paint adheres to the overlying grime instead of the surface, so it will come off when the dirt comes off.
If you used a latex-based paint with a flat finish over the original stained surface, you should follow with a clear polyurethane or compatible water-based sealer, since flat latex paint does not wash easily. No extra protectant on this one but if you have heavy usage you can absolutely apply a wipe on poly over our wax!! If the undercoat is shellac or other alcohol-based product or if the underlying stain is of unknown composition, use a specialty primer formulated to transition between incompatible undercoats and topcoats. Start by using a small foam or angled paintbrush to paint around the edges and any obstacles on the surface of your project – such as light fixtures and door or cabinet handles. If you used a gloss latex or oil-based paint, particularly a durable type such as floor or porch paint, a sealer may be unnecessary, since those are specially formulated to withstand heavy use. I practiced on another piece of furniture and cant seem to get the stain to keep lines in it.
Check the compatibility of the sealer with the topcoat paint before applying, and follow the manufacturer's direction for use and drying times. It is water based and one of the best ways to protect a painted finish while not changing the color. Lightly sand the entire surface with extra-fine sandpaper to provide a slightly rough surface that will hold the paint.