31 Oct. 1995|
Japanese hand plane blades,hardwood plywood manufacturers,timber plan drawers for sale,how to engrave wood diy - How to DIY
This makes it possible to tap the iron part and bend the steel to make the tip of the blade touch the stone, without having to grind large surface.
Deformed back is considered to be a shame among the top Japanese carpenters, but it is quite difficult to keep the back hollow in a nice shape.
Japanese traditional style of wood working and construction does not use any sandpaper for finishing the timbre. The mirror like finish is achieved by thinly (3 to 15 microns) shaving off the timbre with a razor sharp blade.
In part one of this three part series, I presented an overview of some vintage razor blade planes. I have found there are four basic problems with existing razor blade planes when used to pare leather: the blade is usually at too high of an angle, the poor quality metal they are made out of creates excessive friction and threaded parts can strip out, the blade height is difficult to adjust and standard razor blades, because they are so thin and designed for hair, are not ideal. Bruce Matthews published some plans and images of a plane he designed for model making, primarily dealing with balsa wood. The most difficult problem was edge retention of the blades – this problem still needs to be resolved.
This is the result of trying out a number of ideas to develop a better razor blade plane for paring leather. I used magnets to hold the razor blades in place until final clamping, and also used a blade cap more like a normal block plane. This entry was posted in book conservation and tagged bookbinding, paring leather, razor blade planes on September 5, 2011 by Jeff Peachey. Video seems a promising technology for the preservation of craft based knowledge: it can clearly demonstrate and record hand skill techniques.
This entry was posted in book conservation, hand tools, knives, tools and tagged bookbinding hand skills, bookbinding tools, how to pare leather, paring leather on December 16, 2009 by Jeff Peachey. Since the wooden block can be effected by temperature and the humidity, constant adjustments to the blade end within the wooden block will have to be made. The blade is set diagonally into the block, and the thickness of the shave is determined by the amount of the blade protruding from the sole of the block.
In order to correct some of the limitations of a flexible double edge blade, he used a single edge blade that has a back stiffener.
The binder clip is lightweight enough to allow a feel for the flexing of these thin blades, making sure to sharpen them on the bevel, although I tend to take a couple of degrees off the angle to make the edge a bit more robust.
1910 Gillette,in the middle a 1990’s Scharf-fix, and on the bottom a 2011 Tungsten Carbide industrial blade. It might be useful for specific circumstances, like paring very thinly, or for those who don’t want to bother having to resharpen their blade. I’ll keep tweaking this plane and bring it along to the Guild of Book Workers Standards of Excellence Seminar, October 6-8, 2011 in Boston. The ceramic coated blades reduce the initial cutting performance to an unacceptable degree, but the carbide blades performed reasonably well, although they are not as sharp initially, they have a much longer, more gradual use time, though seeming not as long as the 75 times some suppliers claim.
High carbon blades cut great initally, but don’t seem to last as long as one would hope.