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02 Nov. 2004

How to use router table,wood bed frames king size,wall mounted folding drafting table plans,free wooden magazine rack plans - PDF Review

Router tables depending if you think about buying or making your own, you should take at least some basic planning into your project. Key parts are the table top quality, fence, positioning of router within the table, stability of the table and safety switch.
Adjustment and positioning of the router: Whatever router you use (fixed base or plunge) your router must be fit solid underneath the table. Router table switch: (picture shows rockler power tool switch)Building your own router table make sure you think about an extra switch. A router table is one of the key woodworking tools in your workshop(if you not own a spindle molder). However, if you like this article, you can use the HTML code below to directly link to this article. To save a bit of money and get more use out of his workbench, the author constructed his own quick and easy router table. The author designed his lift to fit his router, so you might need to make slight adjustments depending on the router you used. I designed my router lift to suit my Festool OF 1400 plunge router, because it plunges without the need to engage a release lever. Get started on the project by ripping and crosscutting the tabletop and two mounting blocks (pieces 1 and 2) to size. Use a core box bit to mill out the grooves for your router's guide rods, making them half the rod's diameter.
If your router does not have guide rods, then you will need to modify the tabletop to accept a router table plate or simply mount the base to the table with screws. Rout slots into mounting blocks to fix the rods against the table, then fasten them to the table blank with carriage bolts and wingnuts.


Use glue and biscuits to assemble the frame for the router lift, the top of the frame will make up the rear router mounting block. To mark out the screw positions on the lift plate, the author set four wood screws in the holes in his router's motor cap, these will keep the lift plate from spinning during cranking after final assembly.
Cut two slots through the base of the fence near each end, this is where you will mount the fence to the table and be able to make any adjustments. Being one of the most versatile tools in a workshop, a router table must have certain features.
Owning an old Elu (now De Walt) plunge router, I got myself a nice depth fine adjustment which works very well underneath my table.
Consider the standalone router table even if you have not much workspace available, because you could use some of the extra storage space in the stand of your table for additional woodworking tools. Whether you go for a bought or shop made table, make sure you understand all safety aspects of your router and how to handle a router. The lift may work with other routers, too, but study the Drawings carefully to verify the compatibility with your machine. Notice in the Drawings and the photos at right that, instead of hanging the router from a removable plate, I make use of the two metal edge guide rods that come standard with the tool. In order to prevent the router lift plate (piece 10) from spinning around when I turn the lift crank, I drove four wood screws partially into the plate, aligning their heads with the hole pattern on the motor cap. If you think about making your own table, you should consider including a "cabinet type" stand. The custom plate leveling system makes it easy to perfectly level the insert plate with the tabletop. A very good example of combining a solid very durable router table with a high precision height adjustment facility.


If equipped properly and with all possible safety features, a router table will be an indispensable piece of woodworking machinery. Then use a square aligned with the cutting edges of the bit to mark start and stop marks on the fence. The project features an adjustable split fence with dust collection, plus a router lift made from ordinary home-center hardware. The gap between the two boards leaves enough room for the router bit to move freely, but should be as close as possible to prevent splintering. In addition it is very important that your router can be accessed easily from underneath or top of the table to quickly change your router bit. By removing three pairs of carriage bolts and wingnuts, I can remove the lift, router and fence easily for convenient storage.
Run your router against a clamped straightedge to rout a pair of shallow groove for the guide rods into the table.
On shop made tables you can simply add a large splinter board along the entire fence and cut it out with your cutter.
When the finish dries, I recommend adding a safety power switch so you can turn the router on and off easily or quickly in an emergency.


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