07 Aug. 1983|
How to make a wooden seed tray,diy mudroom bench plans,woodshop dust collection hose - How to DIY
A solution to one of the downfalls that any indoor gardener will know that you are regularly transporting multiple seed trays to and from the windowsill as the day turns into evening. This weekend I decided to cross off one of my much needed jobs of making something to put my seedlings that line my windowsills into. I main idea was to make a tray with a lip around it that the seed trays sit into, enabling me to lift multiple items at once and it would also stop water spilling out and making a mess.
After cutting the board into 3 I cut 4 other strips of wood which I then screwed where needed so that all trays had a lip around them. I now had 3 rustic wooden trays for my windowsill Chillies and they looked exactly how I wanted them to, and not often that happens I find when you are working with random materials.
I really like this idea of having a one piece wood bottom that you can pick everything up at once in. You’ll need containers that have drainage holes, and a tray or something to catch excess water. Using its own nutrient reserves, this seedling emerged and stretched to the light in less than 10 hours. Its one of the downfalls that any indoor gardener will know that you are regularly transporting multiple seed trays to and from the windowsill as the day turns into evening. I’m really happy with these and it’s going to make my indoor Chillies so much more manageable and enjoyable to grow.
If you want to grow plants from your own seeds in the future, be sure to use parent seeds described as open pollinated or heirloom.
As seed companies buy their seed grown all over the country, it's best to find one that stands behind their seed by testing and retesting for germination before packing, and which clearly labels the seed as to batch and pull date. Don't buy seed at a store where it's been in a sunny window (faded packets) or near humidity (the paper feels limp)--germination will be half that of properly merchandised seed. Her seeds are tested in a number of different climate zones in California and have done very well for me.
I much prefer to make something from what I’ve got around me, after all I’ve got a garage with lots of wood off cuts and a tool collection that is getting very respectable.
Seeds from a hybrid, which is the result of crossing two plants, will not produce a plant identical to the hybrid.
Seedlings need a lot of light, and spindly growth will tell you if they’re not getting enough.
Seed companies that service their racks on a regular basis will have fresher seed in the racks. I have confidence in her seeds' performance, and so far, the newbie gardeners are having spectacular results.
For example, a seed catalog specializing in tomatoes presents a particular challenge for the tomato lover by offering more than 200 varieties. Place them in a cold frame or in dappled shade for about five days, and then move them into a sunny location for another five days before transplanting them into their new home.Lastly, keep records, or at least label seedlings properly.
Stay away from unsterilized soil, compost, or worm castings until the seedlings are ready for transplanting.
If the seedlings must remain in the container for a while, fertilize with a weak solution of fish emulsion or seaweed.Using a soilless mix lessens the chance of a common seed starting disease called damping off, which rots stems and topples seedlings. If keeping a record book is not for you, then use small plastic or wooden stakes and write on them with a permanent marker. For northern gardeners, this is crucial because the growing season is short and good timing increases your production.For mild-weather gardeners, like me, it can mean getting two or three crops (of corn, for instance) in a season by removing the remnants of a harvested crop and planting three-week-old seedlings in their place.
I like to use wooden stakes and write the variety on one side and the date I started the seedlings on the other. Perfecting this technique requires good timing and seed selection, understanding your climate and soil, and some practice in starting seedlings.
My favorite tray is a foil baking dish with holes poked in the bottom, with another one it can slip into to catch excess water.
Even with the best effort at careful spacing during planting, you may have to pinch out some seedlings. This is also a simple way to keep track of how many days a plant takes from sowing to harvesting.
If you spot any mold or fungus, uncover the seedlings immediately.Successful sprouting Fill your container with 3 in. There is something quite magical about looking at the planting date on a stake when you’ve harvested a head of cauliflower, and remembering when it was just a tiny seed. Place three seeds in a line, the length of this line is how deep you should plant the seed. Tiny seeds like lettuce and parsley should be broadcast (sprinkled) across the top of the soil or planting medium and then covered ever so lightly.
When broadcasting, be sure not to sow too many seeds, or they will be difficult to separate later. The ideal distance between seeds provides enough space so the resulting seedlings and their roots do not touch or intertwine. Basically, the longer you plan to leave the seedlings in their first home, the farther apart the seeds should be sown. Place freshly planted containers on a heated seed starting mat, or in a warm spot in the house. Seeds germinate at warmer temperatures than those needed by seedlings for growth, so after the sprouts have true leaves, you can move them to a cooler home. Some seeds need light to germinate, so check thpacket for this information, as well.Remember that warmth can reduce moisture, so check the soil daily.