13 May. 2007|
How to make a patio table with tile,free easy wood carving projects,plans park benches - Review
Your patio table aspires to be more than just a place to set your drink while you grill burgers. Here are step-by-step instructions on how to create a mosaic tile top for your patio table put together by Forums associate aboveaveragejoe. No matter which way you choose, you’ll need to first install a secure base so that the tiles have a firm and permanent place to rest upon.
Now depending on the size, shape, and how the table is constructed will depend on how much materials you’ll need to buy.
Shown below, I included a cut-away illustration that best describes the items you will need to make a base and to hold the tiles down securely.
Essentially, if you place down the backerboard with wood underneath (the wood can be fastened underneath with adhesives and sheet-metal screws to the frame), you’ll be giving yourself a long-lasting and professional tile top that can withstand any weight and weather beating down on top of it. If you decide to make your mosaic using broken tile pieces no bigger than a quarter, you’ll need to do a little more preparation with the tiles. Next, depending on the size of your table, you can layout the tiles by pattern, color, or style on a flat surface so you can mimic that pattern onto the final table top. I’ve seen some arts and crafts stores sell tile mosaic glue, but if you do a small amount of pre-mixed tile adhesive we sell, this can work just as effectively.
Let the tiles dry out overnight, and you can place grout or mortar to fill in the spaces between your tile pieces.
I’ve posted your question on our How-To Community Forums for an answer from our experts. I’ve posted your question on our How-To Community Forums, where our experts can take a look and come up with an answer for you.
What was not very clear for me, was what tipe of table we should use, and if we can find the materials in HD.
As a professional mosaic artist who has installations in homes, hotels, and hospitals across the US as well as exterior public art installations in Texas, I must differ with you on several of your instructions.
I have been called to examine mosaic table tops that were created on wooden substrates and they were literally falling apart.
I am so pleased to see this set of directions for replacing a table top with tiles and indicating the use of backerboard. I also make my own ceramic art tiles, but use Home Depot’s colored tiles to fill in around those I make.
We would love to see some photos of your work– especially if they show some how you incorporated Home Depot tiles. When potter Clay Cunningham lost his glass patio tabletop in a spring storm, he decided to keep the existing table frame and replace the glass top with a ceramic mosaic top. I recently returned from a vacation to discover that a spring storm had destroyed the glass top of my patio table.
Lay the plywood on the floor, cover it with large sheets of drawing paper (24 ? 36) and lightly tape them together to hold their position. Allow the clay to dry to an early leather-hard state then cut along the dotted lines with a fettling knife (figure 3). To prevent warping in the tiles, carefully flip and gently compressed each one numerous times over the course of a few days or dry them on an open wire rack.
Brush three coats of weatherproofing water sealant onto the plywood tabletop to ensure its longevity. For more tile and mosaic projects be sure to download your free copy of How to Design, Make and Install Ceramic Tile Murals and Mosaics: Design Tips and How-To Instructions for Handmade Ceramic Tile Projects.
Not sure how you are finishing the edges- if the table top originally had a metal rim, then the tiles and their border can be fit within- otherwise you have the plywood visible from the side, under the edging tiles.
Tilework that is going outside, exposed to the elements, should not be on plywood, but on a concrete-based board used in bathrooms etc.
If you need to put the table away (storage) for the winter, I would suggest either a bracket or holes in the plywood backing to allow you to hang it in the garage and enjoy it all year long. While I realize your table edge and materials maybe different, this should give you an idea of what to expect. The upside of this is that you’ll be getting a unique and customized table top that no one else on earth has! Remember to consider thickness, so that at the end of the day, the table top is as level as possible.
Now you can place a small amount of tile adhesive spread thin in a small area so you can work the tiles in carefully. Since the adhesive is very effective, make sure you know exactly where you plan do put down the mosaic pieces before placing them on the surface. I would think one made of wood would not last with rain, it seems to me it made out of iron. But I went ahead and posted your question over on our How-To Community Forums, where you can get how-o advice from our experts. In this post, and excerpt from our free download How to Design, Make, and Install Ceramic Tiles and Murals: Design Tips and How-To Instructions for Handmade Ceramic Tile Projects, Clay explains how he did it, from the planning stages to the final grouting.
I was faced with two options—order a new manufactured tabletop or put my talents to work by designing and building a new one out of clay. This will be thick enough for strength yet not so thick that it makes the tabletop excessively heavy.
While the tiles are upside down, incise small grooves into the back of the tiles with an old pen. Make detailed drawings of which clay quadrants are on which shelves and where the shelves are placed in the kiln. Begin by laying the tiles out onto the plywood, allowing an even amount of space between each tile.
The grout does two things—first, it adds a stained-glass effect with all of the tiles separated by a single, unifying color and second, it keeps water and other materials from getting between the tiles and rotting the wood underneath.
Also, doing the transfer drawing on a thin sheet of plastic makes it easier to transfer to the tiles. Again, it all depends on the size and shape of the existing patio table frame that you have now. You can place the tiles you want to break up in a folded drop cloth and break the pieces using a rubber mallet.
The tile nippers (included in the tile installation kit), can cut, or bite into the tiles if you want to give more smoother or different edges that the original broken pieces.
Depending on what kind of tile down will determine what kind of sealer to put down, which is why I can’t recommend one until you choose your tile. We decided on an image of aspen trees with beautiful red and yellow fall leaves, but any image is possible with this technique.
After drying a bit more, smooth the tiles out along the edges and round off any sharp points. Because the clay has a shrinkage rate of around 10%, the mosaic will perfectly fit your tabletop and allow just enough room between the tiles for the grout.
The scraping removes all but a fine film on top of the tiles which can be easily wiped away.
These serve as the brackets that lock the tabletop into place, yet allow it to be removed if needed.
You can turn it into a stunning hand-made work of art, as artist Mark Hendricks did with the table we see above. No matter how you put down your tile, using a quality sealer guarantees you won’t have to worry about failure in your table for a long time.
If the edges and points are not smoothed, they may turn into sharp areas poking out on your tabletop.
Do not use a needle tool to create the grooves as it will make a line that is too thin to allow the glue to fill the groove. Space the tiles out a bit to allow enough room to add underglaze to them without accidentally getting the wrong color on a tile.
It’s important to get the grout down into every nook and cranny between the tiles (figure 6). From under the table, place each bracket a few millimeters away from the table frame, one in each quadrant, and screw them into the underside of the tabletop.
But even a more modest mosaic of ready-made tiles will raise your patio table’s self esteem to a whole new level. First, large clay tiles tend to warp, which leads to an uneven top, so keep individual pieces small—less than eight inches on a tile’s longest dimension. Simply follow along the drawing, lightly piercing through the paper with the needle tool until the entire drawing is perforated (figure 2).
Though you could add the underglaze to the tiles before placing them on the kiln shelf, placing them first avoids over handling of the underglazed pieces. Flip each tile over, coat with a liberal dollop of tile glue (figure 5), and immediately place into position, paying careful attention to retain an equal amount of space between all of the tiles. Last, a light sponging with a thoroughly rung out damp sponge brightens all of the colors and a dry towel removes any remaining film. Lay the plastic with the drawing on top of the clay, and with a pencil, knitting needle or other pointed tool trace over all the lines. With a wide hakeme brush, apply underglazes in a thick, opaque coat onto the tiles (figure 4). You will need to take careful note of how thick (or thin) the table edge is as well as finding out the exact size of the opening.
If you do, you’ll stab into the clay, which distorts the drawing and makes for rough, gouged edges. I recommend going back over each tile and giving it a little wiggle to ensure that none are missed.
Continue until the entire tabletop is coated with grout, including the edge of the table where the tile and plywood meet. Finally, including a border will not only visually ‘frame’ your design, but also ensure a nice, even edge to the entire table. You can bisque fire the tiles before glazing them if you wish, but I wanted to eliminate as many unnecessary steps as possible. I lay the clay slab directly on the sheetrock before cutting, to handle it as little as possible, and place another piece of sheetrock on top of the cut tiles. If you have a large project such as this table, it is easy to cut the design into smaller parts by simply cutting the plastic or drawing a line with another color where the design break occurs. Once everything is fired it is easy to reassemble the pieces by following the numbers on the back, no matter how complex the work is.