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09 Sep. 2001

How to make a canoe seat,brands of wood floor stain,how to woodworking bench - PDF Review

I noticed on another thread a discussion of the pro's and con's of cane versus webbing seats.
A few years ago in Canada we had a rental boat (I believe a Nova Craft) with the seat weaved with rope.
To make the weaving work without overlapping (also underneath) you need 16 holes along the wide part, and 2 parallel rows of holes (8 and 4) along the narrow lengths. I've never built a seat but will be doing one soon, and this looks like a great way to do it. I bought an Apache 14 beautifully finished by an amater builder with cane or plastic cane substitute seats. Over the weekend I took the latest canoe out for a test paddle and I was reminded how long it has been since I’ve updated the blog. Today saw one of the last steps in the construction of the canoe — installing the seats.

The cardboard measures 10 inches from the bottom of the canoe while the adjustable cross-piece enables me to measure length.
I plotted the location of the strap on the seat frame and then cut the strap to length and stapled one end into place. Because I want to hold off on fiberglassing until the weekend, I have several days on which I can work ahead on a couple of tasks. This is one area in which free, how-to information is a little hard to come by on the internet, so I’ll take a little more time on this one in case anyone wants to avoid my mistakes. Hopefully it will last longer than a cane seat and I personally think it looks nicer than webbing. However I put the T grip of my paddle though one whilst getting out, and last week my whole fist went through in another place on the same seat. This is definitely one area in which you want to measure twice, cut once and to make plenty of allowance for adjustments.

It could have been wider, but I have faith that no one’s posterior will be too put out by the meager real estate of the seat (least of all my wife, for whom 13 inches will be no doubt spacious). I made a seat for my solo boat in 2008, with the same technique and paddle the boat nearly every week, and the seat is still perfectly tensioned after 5 years of weekly continuuous use. Because the hangers were pretty narrow, I opted to use stainless screws (rather than carriage bolts) and a dollop of dookie schmutz to fasten the seat to the hangers and the resulting assembly from the gunwales. For this build, I used felt pads on the ends of the seat supports (the kind used for furniture) so that I could dry-fit the seats without scratching the hull to bits. Iwonder if you can explain the use of the second line of holes on the short side of the seat, and if, in fact, I could do the job without drilling more holes.

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