27 Dec. 1988|
How to finish wood after staining,build wood step stool,cool woodshop project ideas,plate display rack plans - How to DIY
Wood finishing expert Bruce Johnson shares basic wood staining tips and offers advice on how to stain some of the more popular wood species. While wood in its natural state can provide breathtaking beauty, it doesn't always match the other colours or wood tones in our home. Since wood is a product of nature, it can vary from tree to tree, even in the same wood species. This thick-bodied stain is ideal for vertical application and works on both wood and non-wood surfaces.
Sand bare or stripped wood lightly with #150, #180 or #220-grit sandpaper to open the pores in preparation for staining.
Pay attention to how long you leave the stain on the wood before wiping off any unabsorbed liquid. Remove the last of any unabsorbed stain with a dry cloth wiped only in the direction of the grain of the wood. When staining vertical surfaces, such as unfinished paneling or doors, try Minwax® Gel Stain. All woods have two characteristics that play important roles in determining their final appearance: their natural colour and the size of their pores. In addition to their natural colour, each species of wood has unique properties that will also affect the staining results. As its name implies, hard maple is an extremely dense, tight-pored wood that does not absorb much stain. These three popular softwoods are beautiful when finished naturally or with only a light application of stain. Always prepare the wood with a light sanding and an application of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (see Wood Preparation for other tips). Attempt to obtain a darker colour by allowing any unabsorbed stain to dry on top of the wood, as this will later peel off.
Woods like cherry, pine and birch can become blotchy and unattractive when stained, unless you use a sealer before staining. After the test board dries, examine the results in different light and locations to see which amount of stain gives the most appealing results. Test different sheens and types of finish on your test piece to see what your project will actually look like finished. I stripped my cabinets and applied three coats of stain, but the cabinet doors still feel sticky after two days of drying. If you used a penetrating oil stain, you may have allowed the stain to build up too thick a coat on the surface of the wood. To remove excess oil stain from wood, simply apply another coat of stain, allow it to soak in for a few minutes, then wipe it off.
In either case if the tackiness doesn’t go away, wipe the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove most of the stain, let it dry thoroughly, then try again using a fresh can of stain.
Miniwax polyshades is little more than tinted polyurethane, so your drying problem has to do with the varnish type finish not drying rather than the stain. After waiting a couple of days for the stain to dry on my newly built floating shelfs I did some research.
I sanded, stained & varnished an old bathroom cupboard recently but noticed one drawer was still sticky days after the other parts were dry.
So, it has been a few days now since staining and we had a fairly warm day or two between the humidity.
I am working on building a drawer with fresh wood and like the original poster had to leave quickly before wiping excess stain off the drawer facing. I lightly sanded my medium oak bathroom vanity and stained it with Minwax stain and finish yesterday. I also experienced a problem with a stain that remained sticky to the touch after about 8 hours. I have taken a end table and sand it down to the wood, the stain did not take all over like it should of, so I put it on thicker and it did not dry. It sounds like the wood may not have been sanded down enough and pores in the grain may still be sealed and are keeping the stain from penetrating. For the best results, select a pre-stain wood conditioner, stain and finish with the same solvent. Applying stain over a finished surface, such as lacquered kitchen cabinets, will not change the colour of the wood. On woods with large, open pores, such as oak, mahogany and ash, increase your pressure to work the stain into the pores.
Swirl marks left by a stain-saturated cloth will become even more obvious under a coat of clear finish. Once the stain has dried, apply a clear finish to protect both the stain and the wood — and to make the final results look even more beautiful. Unlike paint, both water-based and oil-based stains are absorbed into the wood rather than laying on top of it.
Like hard maple, however, it does not absorb stain evenly and should not be stained with dark coloured stains. Problems arise, however, under darker stains, for all three absorb stain unevenly, especially around knots and blemishes. The solvent in the finish will activate the damp stain, allowing your brush or cloth to pull it out of the pores of the wood. Any excess stain will redissolve and come off, leaving only the stain that penetrated into the wood.
Remove the remaining stain by wiping the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha (be sure you have plenty of ventilation and don’t work around open flames), followed by wiping with a clean cloth. My guess is that either the can of finish was bad or that it was very humid when you applied it.
I used some baby wipes to clean and to my surprise i found the stain was coming off onto the wipes, would this tell me that it has only been stained more recently on an item which has been made to look old or would this stain come off if it had been stained lets say 80-90+ years which is how old i thought this item was, many thanks in advance. The oak cabinets were sanded down to the wood very smoothly using 220 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. For that reason, the natural wood colour will blend with the colour of the stain you choose.
To help reduce blotchiness when staining, first apply a liberal coat of a pre-stain wood conditioner. When staining, first apply a pre-stain wood conditioner, then select stains lighter in colour. Always apply a liberal coat of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner prior to staining and even then select light to medium colours. Allow the wood to dry completely, sand the piece down to bare wood, and apply a coat or two of stain, wiping off any excess.
Your site said to restain and wipe off after a few minutes, this sounded much easier and less expenvise. Tonight, after about 24 hours, the dresser is still tacky and is not as dark as we’d like. Never allow any excess stain to dry on wood surfaceit will cause all sorts of adhesion and other issues. In order to accurately predict the final colour of your project, always test any stain you select on an inconspicuous place on the wood first. To insure that any stain penetrates and fills oak's deep pores, apply a liberal amount of stain to the wood, then work it into the pores using a cloth in a swirling motion. This can also happen if the wood wasn’t stripped and sanded completely down to bare wood, since the stain will sit on the surface rather than soaking into the wood. If you try to finish over it with a brush, some of the stain will probably come off on the brush and give the surface an uneven look. In some places it has absorbed into the wood and other placed it is shiny, but dry and not tacky to the touch. I sanded where they wer worn but not down to bare wood every where but all were sanded some. All was okay I wiped all excess,and was dry next day, but then on the third coat I forgot to clean excess and now after 12 hour still is sticky to the touch.
Afterwards remove any unabsorbed stain by rubbing a clean cloth in the direction of the grain of the board. You could spray several light coats of finish over the stain, but the adhesion between the finish, stain, and wood will not be very high.