08 Jun. 1990|
Glue for wood cutting board,wood cedar shakes,turned wood pen kits - For Outdoors
In a recent Woodcraft class we had 3 students making cutting boards, Sue Ellen Miller, Liz Matheny and 15 year old Maddy Byers. Use and Safety Tips: When using a compound miter saw please refer to the manual for safety guidelines. Place a mark on the router table where the left side of the core box bit will make first contact with the wood. To cut the finger grip, steady the board on the right corner, slightly tilted up so that the two beginning left pencil mark on the cutting board edge down onto the bit. Finish the cutting board using either General Finishes’ Salad Bowl Finish or Butcher Block Oil. The drawing is actually supposed to be today or tomorrow as far as picking the winning name, but will not be released to the public until we get affidavits signed and returned from the winner for acceptance. Instruction says to put the wood into the planer "with the grain," but there was no instruction to orient the grain the same way in each piece when the stack was being glued. Without the ends being aligned during glue-up, it is probable that for trimming the ends with the table saw, both front and back edges will not align with the intended kerf, i.e. Somebody has not paid attention to Bob Flexner's writings - ALL modern finishes are safe when cured, not just the ones specifically labeled for contact with food. Stills were taken for clarification shots, no actual unsafe practices were used in actual board creation.
I'm making a solid walnut cutting board there are some cracks in the wood on the cutting sides that should be sealed before use. When I made some boards for Christmas last year from Bubinga, Cherry and Maple, some of the Maple had worm holes. Wood choices in this class were based on both, best use of wood for a cutting board, and aesthetics too. The board is glued up into one section, cross cut twice, a segment is flipped, then reassembled. After looking at the picture for awhile I realized that it was cut after being glued up, but I had already posted the question.
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This Instructable details how to make hardwood cutting boards out of maple and cherry scraps. Hearing is one of those things, like eyeballs and fingers, you want to hang onto for as long as possible.
For our class we chose lyptus for the red, walnut for the accents and maple for the lighter colors. For our project, we reviewed the following…unlock the arm, bring the blade up and out towards you to the outer edge of the board.
To begin cutting the boards, make sure the straightest side is toward the rail when the board is lying flat. Place a mark on the router table where the right side of the core box bit will end contact with the wood.
Slide the board to the left with our right hand and holding it against the fence with your left hand. With the bit spinning, start cutting in the center of one end of the cutting board by moving the cutting board into the bit. This finish dries glossier and the wood shows through lighter than using Butcher Block Oil. This simple cutting board, actually has some very important executions going on that have a whole lot to do with other many aspects of woodworking.
Additional coats are up to the individual user for the final effect and complete coverage you feel you are happy with.
Measure to the centerline of the finger placement, and distance you wish to cut the finger holds across the board. Use what you like for the parallel grain laminations, then use top grade epoxy for the end grain. Start the blade, then enter the outer edge of the board with the blade spinning, push and saw through.
If there is a gap between the rail and the board, it will cause the board to pinch when cut. Keep your thumb on the lower left corner of the board and always keep your hands behind the blade. Place the smooth edge against the fence and use the push stick to run the boards through the table saw. Keep the material to the right side of the bit by rotating the cutting board counter clockwise against the bearing. Put a dab of glue on your finger and smear the glue in any small cracks on the surface of the cutting board. Not only do you end up with a great useful product or gift, but you get to learn some really solid basics on wood selection, joining, and glue up assembly. On another note, I like your YouTube channel, great shots of your woodworking, and the site really gets your attention. Keep in mind that when the board is in use, cutting into the wood might require additional coats. They do look beautiful in the end, but I was wondering if these are the best kind to use while making a board. We used maple balusters removed during a remodel as the main elements of the cutting boards. We passed through each face that glue would be applied to several times to get a nice smooth surface.
If this happens, release the power switch, wait until the blade stops spinning and remove the blade from the wood.
Push forward with one hand on the very back edge of the board, using the other hand to push the board in against the guide. We are using shorter 14” boards which allow for greater control than cutting the longer 6-8’ boards with which we started the project.
Squiggle a line of glue from end to end, flip the wood on its edge and press and wiggle against the first piece of wood already in place.
The dust from the sander will stick in the glue and help fill the cracks, therefore the glue must be wet while sanding.
I have a lot of test pieces that are merely end grain to end grain, sitting out in the rain trough, growing algae and rotting, with the glue joint still intact. Listen to the sound of the saw, if the wood begins to pinch, the sound of the saw will change. Continue to quickly ‘squiggle and wiggle’ the glue onto each piece and flip into place until all the pieces are glued together. The nice thing about using cherry is that it gets darker the more you use your cutting board.
The debris could elevate the board, impact the cut and create an edge that is not square; defeating your purpose. Cut all the boards to the desired size before you move on to the workbench for design and glue up. Align the back end of the cutting board (nearest you) with the edge just covering the saw cut in the fence.
Mark the starting and stopping points of the finger grips with a pencil on the face of the cutting board.
One you find a design you like, with a pencil make a #1 in the top left corner and draw a diagonal line all the way across the board to the lower right edge, label that edge #2. When finished, use a scrap board to press flush against the edge to realign the edges if needed.
Hold onto the cutting board with your left hand on the outside left edge and push the cutting board forward through the saw blade using the handle on the miter gauge with your right hand. NOTE: If you make several boards at once and one gets smooth before the others, flip the smooth one over and run it through once (to get excess glue off) before you put all of them through a rotation cycle. Once you get your glue nice and even, making sure there are no air pockets, you can start to slap the pieces together. Setting time is 10-30 minutes, depending on temperature and moisture of wood for Titebond ll. You'll want to use a fairly hard wood: maple, oak, maybe even walnut, just a good, hard, wood. I don't recommend using any sort of plant derived oil because it will rot and make your board smell and nut oils may trigger allergies in people that have them - not a Dr., just a guess. Whatever you use, just be sure you coat both sides and edges, give it 2 or 3 coats over a day or two, don't let it sit in the sink too long when you wash it (be sure to use waterproof glue - titebond III is good), and when it starts to look dry re-coat it. I recommend using a wood burner or router if you want to add some flare (or different colored woods, the one's in this instructable are maple and cherry).