04 Jun. 2002|
Folding chair step stool plans,custom wood engraving houston,wood support beams - Test Out
One way to cut the spline and step dadoes for this project is to build a simple slotted jig, as shown in the video.
Repeat this process to rout dadoes for the first and third steps in the upper and lower side pieces. Figure 5: Transfer the spline and step dado locations from the first upper and lower side pieces to your tracings for the second set of matching parts.
Set your side pieces aside for a spell, and joint and plane stock for the back, stretcher, four steps and seat. Apply the full-size, gridded patterns for the chair back and stretcher to their workpieces using spray adhesive, and roll the patterns smooth. The back edges of the first and third steps need to be bullnosed in order to fit into the curved ends of the dadoes in the side pieces.
Figure 10: The back edges of the steps must be rounded over to fit into the curve-ended dadoes. Figure 11: Slip the steps into their dadoes in the upper and lower sides, and mark their overhanging front edges.
Figure 12: Clamp the chair back between the upper sides, trace its location and use these references for drilling the necessary screw pilot holes. Figure 13: Spread glue into the dadoes for the third step, slip it into place, and secure it to the upper sides with counterbored screws. Figure 14: Attach the first and second steps to the lower side pieces to build this subassembly.
Figure 16: Cut a piece of piano hinge to length, and fasten it to the second step and seat pieces to join the upper and lower assemblies. Apply your finish of choice to complete this handy, stylish Convertible Step Stool and Chair.
Chad HuntAdvertisement - Continue Reading BelowWood stoves, lightning rods, bifocals--and the founding of our country--are a few of the things we think of when Benjamin Franklin comes to mind.
Download an animated walk through and full printable plans of this project (PDF, 1MB).Side ViewWhile the piece is simple to build, the parts must fit together correctly so the assembly works in both stool and chair positions.
Make a comfortable, classic wooden chair that converts to a stepladder with these instructions, including a materials list and diagram. The library chair solves the problem of having two pieces of furniture where there's really only room for one. It helps to mark the slot-cutting jig with a reference line to show you where to stop each of these two dado cuts, since the router will mostly cover up the cutting path during routing. Then step over to your drill press to drill the ends of the handle cutout on the chair back with a 1-dia.
Spread glue in the dadoes before slipping the step into place and driving screws through the upper sides to secure it (see Figure 13). A large clamp with deep jaws can help hold the second step in place while driving the counterbored screws. But somewhere in between flying kites in storms and diplomatic missions to Europe, the great man had a hand in furniture design, including an innovative step stool that doubles as a chair.
Otherwise, you risk tearing out a bit of the plug below the surface of the surrounding wood.Download an animated walk through and full printable plans of this project (PDF, 1MB). Folded over itself, it's a sturdy step stool; otherwise, it's a comfortable straight-backed chair that is not all that costly or difficult to build. It's an upright wooden chair that folds over itself to become a stepping stool—aptly called a library chair because of its practicality in a room where standing and reaching for books can occupy as much time as sitting and reading the volumes.Even if you don't have a study, you can find plenty of use for a chair such as this in the kitchen, dining room or any other place where there are shelves beyond normal reach. Then slip the first and third steps into their dadoes, clamp the parts temporarily, and mark any overhang where the steps protrude past the sides (see Figure 11).
Add the second step, gluing and screwing it down to the top of the lower assembly (see Figure 14). Line up the edges of the hinge leaves flush with the top and bottom faces of the second step and seat, before driving screws into each of the hinge holes (see Figure 16). Also had the idea of laying the pattern out on both types of wood used here then switching the steps and back.
For extra router support, secure a piece of scrap wood between the legs of the stool with double-sided tape. The original piece—made over a century ago for former governor Wade Hampton of South Carolina—is somewhat narrower and a bit taller than the one you see here, but our modern version is a lot easier to build and uses a store-bought, workable clear pine rather than the stubborn, hand-milled oak of an earlier time.Simple as this project is, you'll still welcome the help of a few power tools. Tilt your table saw blade to match these angles — it should be about 20 degrees — and trim the steps to final width.
While you’re at it, the inside edge of the top step also needs to be cut to this angle.
Since nearly every component of the chair has a duplicate, it's best to clamp and cut each pair together so they're symmetrical. To help guide the seat straight onto the base when folding the chair, you may want to use the sander to slightly bevel the inside corners of the rear legs.If you've chosen a select grade of wood and filled the gaps with care, the chair will take a stain and a clear finish nicely. Wood with more than a few surface blemishes, however, may look better sealed first with a primer, then painted with a semigloss finish.Once the final coat is dry, you can fasten the flat catch to the outside face of one set of diagonals to keep the chair from unfolding when it's lifted.