12 Jul. 2010|
Finish plywood table top,burl wood bowl making,online wood carving patterns,build wood futon frame - How to DIY
I normally design my smaller raceways with the drivers stations for lanes 1 and 2 along one side of the table, and lanes 3 and 4 along the other side. Note the screws used to fasten the plywood sheet to both the outer edges of the table frame as well as the two parallel cross braces used to mount the table's legs.With the plywood glued and fastened to the frame with screws, all that remains is the Homasote sound damping layer.
Now it's time to fill the exposed screw holes on the sides of the table frame and legs with wood filler, then sand and prime the bare wood. Take your time with this phase of the track construction, and inspect each screw used to fasten the track to the table top. The photograph above shows the photo-cell sensor assembly and the junction box that will be mounted under the table.
Once the four holes have been drilled the sensor leads can be fed up from the underside of the table. The red and black wires running horizontally at the top of the picture above are coming from the Lane No.
The next picture illustrates the wires passing through the table's frame and how they're attached to the driver's station terminal barrier block.
The power supply shelf shown above fits entirely under the table itself and does not extend out beyond the track's retaining walls. I had a pile of leftover plywood in my basement, a set of hairpin legs from a broken table, and a big idea in my head.
Jim used a 3-inch paint roller and a tray full of glue to roll the glue on, while I brought all the pieces over to the gluing table and kept them in order, and helped slap the pieces into place after they were rolled with glue.
Before the final sanding, I used wood filler to fill in all the little holes that you’ll find inside plywood. Take Two: Minwax White Wash, and its recommended top coat, Polycrylic (instead of the regular oil-based poly I used for my first attempt). Update #2: I went back and put an extra special finish on this desk to make it satiny-smooth. This produces a neater wiring job, and reduces the amount of work that must be carried out lying on my back, or with the table turned on its side. The drivers stations for the center lanes, 2 and 3 are mounted on opposites sides and at opposite ends of the table. Acquiring the lumber, cutting it and constructing the table itself can be done on Saturday, and the primer coat applied late that afternoon.
The Astron 10 Amp 0-30 VDC Variable Power Supply and Parma 45 Ohm Turbo Plus Hand Controls are shown towards the back of the table. Note the two pieces of 1×4 dimensional lumber used to make certain that this track is mounted square with the edge of the table. The remaining track will need to be mounted to finish up the track mounting phase of construction. You'll recall that I attached them to the table frame before the table top was mounted to reduce the amount of work carried out lying on my back.The picture below shows their original mounting locations. While the finished product is done up in the customer's choice of ash, cherry, walnut or white oak, Klebba first worked it out using plywood and maple scraps for the top and legs, respectively.The tabletop of the finished desk retains plywood as the core component, but as it's mean to be a writing desk, it's covered with a thicker-than-usual hardwood veneer.
The other table sizes described there use the same construction principles as the table illustrated here.
This arrangement allows for just 2 racers running on lanes 2 and 3 to easily marshal the entire raceway with a minimum of movement.The next step of construction involves applying the plywood table top.
The table top is fastened to the outside table frame as well as the supporting cross braces. The photo-cell leads are run to a small junction box that will be mounted under the table in a later step. For this particular table two driver's stations hookups are mounted at each end of the table frame on the leg support cross braces. Four (4) holes will need to be drilled to pass the wiring and fuse block through the table's side frame. You can also use the shelf to hold a computer if you want to locate it under the table and out of the way.I used slotted metal shelf standards and movable shelf support arms to hold the power shelf.
Simply extend the length and width if you will be building one of the larger tables described there. My track wiring kits include complete step-by-step instructions and do not require any soldering or prior electrical experience to install.On smaller tables such as this 4x8 footer it's often better to place two drivers stations along each of the longer 8 foot sides of the table. The length of the screw that you use may differ depending upon the thickness of your table. Also try to have everything you'll need under the table with you, otherwise you'll be forever climbing out from under the table to retrieve tools and supplies.If you have a trouble light put a small screw eye in the underside of the table top to hang your light from. A well-made slot car table should last 20-30 years, and I'm not sure that the adhesive alone will protect the wires for that length of time.
There's actually enough room under the table to mount two shelves if you find that you need extra storage space. The 8-position barrier terminal block mounted in the center of the cross brace is where track power will be applied to the table. The edge of the 1×4 frame was coated with Elmer's Exterior Wood Glue before attaching the plywood sheet. Heavy weights can be placed on the table top to hold the Homasote in place while the glue dries. It can get dark under the table and having a good light source makes the entire wiring phase easier and go much smoother.A second option, if your table is not too large or too heavy, is to have someone help you turn the table on it's side. The Homasote used for the table top is very porous and requires two coats of primer to completely seal it.With the entire table primed and sealed all that remains of the table construction phase is painting the table top, sides and leg assembly. The legs are painted with a dark gray enamel, the retaining walls are painted with white enamel and the table top is painted using a dark shade of green to replicate turf. Once the heads are painted black it will be difficult to spot any missed holes that don't have a screw securing them to the table top.In the picture below the outer track sections that make up the hairpin turn have been fastened to the table top, but the inside pair of lanes as yet, have not. Even a 4×8 foot table can get pretty heavy once the plywood table top has been attached. You'll be crawling around under the table to wire and having hundreds of needle-like spikes will make that phase of the project bloody and very dangerous.I've found that the best results are achieved if you start by mounting an entire 2-lane portion of the track first. I also fit #6 spade lugs to the ends of the wires to allow for a neat and tidy hookup underneath the table.With a piece of masking tape in place I mark the location of the holes I plan to drill. If you're working alone do not try to turn the table on its side by yourself, it's just too heavy and you'll end up dropping it and cracking the retaining walls.I start by mounting an 8-Position Barrier Terminal Block near each of my Custom Power Terminal Tracks. This shelf fits neatly under the table and provides a convenient spot to place the track power supply.