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11 Jun. 1996

Filler wood floor cracks,how to build a sawhorse plans,free wood bench seat plans - For Outdoors

I have a 1905 house in Boston with hardwood floors which have large cracks in them that were filled many years ago. I've used the Elmers water-based filler in other areas of the house and it had good results however and none of these areas have been on the floor.
To put this in perspective I will be selling the house in about six months and need to repair the floor for showing the house.
Mark is suggesting replacing the wood - using a filler piece of wood in the gap and using the saw to create straight lines so installing the new piece is easier.
Well, now that I'm done with the floor I thought I'd write up a quick tutorial for those thinking of doing it themselves.
You must of course start with a hardwood floor, preferably one that needs to be refinished. You need to make sure you either have a subfloor underneath the hardwood, or a thick enough hardwood floor that it can handle being thinned a bit.
The sander really doesn't require much strength to operate, but you constantly lift up on the handle to apply the sander to the floor, so your forearms and lower back are likely to get sore if you're out of shape like me. At this point, the floor still feels pretty rough to the touch, but we still have a lot of sanding to go. If you want a light stain, you can seal the wood prior to staining, and the stain won't soak in as far.
Some prefinished flooring manufacturers offer their own proprietary floor fillers that come in smaller tubes.


If the manufacturer does not provide a filler, the most accessible product one can use is made by Minwax, found in every big box store. That’s one of the biggest problems with filling cracks in both prefinished and unfinished floors.
Trowelable filler that many professionals place confidence in with unfinished floors include Woodwise, Bona Pacific and Timbermate. In many areas the filling looks pretty good however over the years the filling in some areas had is cracked and crumbled away. Set your saw blade depth at the same thickness as the flooring so you don't cut into the floor joist. Considering the floor after installation is the final product, some types of filler cannot be used, specifically those that are not water based or acrylic.
They work well for smaller projects and filling minor gaps like the one shown, but let‘s say you made a mistake and bought a great price reduced hardwood but nobody told you about the gaps you may be faced with. Most finishers will trowel fill the cracks after the first rough sanding pass with the drum sander. These products come in quarts, one gallon and 3.5 gallon containers and can be found at many local flooring supply houses.
I'm considering water-based wood filler but would also consider epoxy or urethane based if someone can give me a good reason. I suppose I could rip something to fill most of it and do the rest with wood filler of some sort.


Woodwise, a product many professionals use offers a similar product, but in sixteen colors including harder to find Brazilian Cherry and bamboo colors. I'm wondering what would be the best choice for filling these areas given that it is in fairly high-traffic areas. My plan as it stands is to fill the gap, sand it, use the stain pen and then put some finish over it.
Inserting wood more or less garuntees that the filler won't fail [if still needed] and will look better than just using filler.
Often what happens is a residue gets left behind that bonds to prefinished floors and cannot be removed safely. To make things worse, the floor boards are not entirely stable in the affected areas which surely explains the old wood filler cracking. You can probably also buy a piece of floor that would match your grain pattern or at least the age on ebay, just type in pine flooring. The products mentioned do have some elasticity to them, however do not be surprised if the filler gets squeezed out during periods of higher humidity.


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