14 Nov. 1997|
Exterior door frame plans,white wood stain kitchen cabinets,carpentry evening classes east london - Reviews
Determine that no electrical, plumbing, or duct lines are in the way, or plan to move the lines. Use a circular saw, then a reciprocating saw, to cut through each exposed stud in two places. To construct a header, cut two (three with 2x6 framing as shown) pieces of 2x6 (or larger) to the width of the rough opening, plus 3 inches (to allow for the thickness of the two jack studs). At "B" the spreader bars at the bottom of the frame have been lost and the brickwork has pushed the bottom in. In "D" a thin cheap frame has bowed in, most likely the brickie has squeezed a few bricks in tight instead of cutting them. There is one that I missed in the sketch, that is for wider frames, say for double doors, you must provide support over the top, or in the case of reinforced blockwork, prop the frame to stop the head sagging while the blocks are being laid. In the sketch at the right, sighting from in to out through the opening, the left frame is perfect, but the other one is twisted. Most brickies do a good job, read the plans OK and fix the door frames and windows as they go.
The way that is normal is to make up your frame in one piece, with the sills and heads nailed or screwed up into the jambs. The doors are usually fixed last, into the already fixed frames, mainly because the frames and outside cladding are fixed by a separate team. I have fixed quite a few aluminium doors, which were obviously pre fitted by the manufacture, and they are always easy to fix, because you can see the various aspects of out level, twist, bow in the jambs etc. I like to use three hinges on outside doors, so I would probably recess my hinges in the hanging jambs first before assembly, but then fix the frames and doors separately, purely because I am comfortable doing it that way. I always use screws for my frame fixings, that way I can back them out easily and adjust things if it is not right first time.
The French doors I have put in over the last few years have all been pre made aluminium, already hung in their frames.
The water penetration side of it has meant that the rebates in the frame's sill have gone deeper than they used to be. If I had to replace my old timber French doors in my old house that had a timber floor, I would do the same, that is let the new frame sit on top of the floor joists and just get used to the slightly higher sill. Just behind me as I type this in my shed are a pair of solid core timber doors, 900 x 2040 x 42 thick. I have made and fixed similar sized doors out of two layers of 16mm MDF with a 1.2mm lead sheet in the middle for radiology rooms. The joints in internal frame for the door as you say are not all that critical, they are only there to hold it in position until the glue etc.
If you went to the trouble of making lap joints, I'd be tempted to put a couple of braces inside the frame and just sheet the inside with ply and fix you boards directly to the frame on the outside. You mentioned mortise and tenon, if you wanted to make the job a definite project, you could make yourself a pair of frame and filled doors.
The information that follows represents the Standard Steel Door and Frame Industry's considered views on a number of details normally encountered in building plans and specifications. The Steel Door Institute recommends that they be followed except when very unusual details necessitate special drawings.
Note: If a louver door is required to provide security, the steel door manufacturer should be consulted. Fusible link louvers are used in fire doors where flames and intense heat passage must be controlled.
Pierced louvers, available from some steel door manufacturers, offer a flush condition and may be furnished with internal insect screens. The above percentages assume there is no air pressure drop from one side of the door to the other. The purpose of this publication is to establish a guide for architects and those responsible for scheduling doors, frames, and hardware requirements.
Although primarily designed for steel doors and frames, this suggested schedule is flexible enough to list total door and frame requirements of a complete job.
The following details represent the recommendation of The Steel Door Institute in this important corollary area.
The ability to maintain gasketing at the door and frame during periods of normal thermal movement to the balance of the building structure. Since the members of the STEEL DOOR INSTITUTE do not manufacture gasketing, it is strongly suggest that the BHMA Members' catalogs and BHMA documents be consulted to establish "fit and function" criteria for specifying of any gasketing. Gasketing and thresholds are used to control the flow of air, smoke, heat or cold, water, sound or other environmental factors through the door opening.
Sealing of gaps between door edges and the header or jambs generally has the greatest effect on performance of the door opening. Gasketing products should never impede the operation, opening or closing of the door assembly. In most instances, sealing of gaps between the bottom of doors and flooring or thresholds is accomplished with door bottoms or overlapping strips in metal retainers. Sealing of door edges at meeting stiles, in lieu of or in addition to factory mounted astragals is accomplished by supplemental gasketing. When supplying products to be used on fire rated openings, care should be taken to maintain the proper clearances around the perimeter of the door assembly in accordance with NFPA 80. The details shown are typical of those employed by members of the Steel Door Institute, but all of the details are not made by all of the members of the Institute. Frames will "fit and function" if made to these dimensional tolerances and installed within tolerances.
There are occasions where steel frames used in extremely high frequency or high use areas need to be supplied with additional reinforcing to eliminate potential door sag. When a high frequency preparation is required, the top hinge of the door frame shall be provided with an auxiliary reinforcement as shown in example 'A' or 'B.' For additional strength, the center and bottom hinge reinforcement may also be provided with additional reinforcements.
Drainpipes and heating or air-conditioning ducts are difficult to move; if one is in the way, you may have to relocate the doorway. By looking at an existing door's bottom in relation to the house's siding, you can tell how high the stairway will need to be. If you are cutting a larger opening (as for a patio door), install temporary supports and use larger lumber. Some older homes have balloon framing, in which the studs travel up through the floor and the ceiling, with no plates.
I always use the term "door jambs" but by far the most people I meet seem to call them door frames.
When you go to the supplier to pick up the door jambs you need at least this minimum of information. This publication contains explanations and details of louver designs that are most commonly available within the standard door industry. Inverted "V" blade, "Z" blade, inverted "Y" or chevron-type blade, lightproof, adjustable blade, grille type, and fusible link self-closing fire door types are available in a wide range of sizes.
The louver blades can be welded or tenoned to the frame and the entire assembly is generally fastened to the door with moldings.
Also, note in the "Remarks" column whether door is to have an Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) Factory Mutual (FM), or Warnock Hersey (WHI) label. The location or intended use of the door assembly, the environment to which it is exposed, and the performance expected will dictate the selection of gasketing and threshold products.
These may be of a design that extends beyond the bottom of the door mechanically, or of a fixed protruding or overlapping design.
Closely abutting gasketing is commonly used where both doors must operate simultaneously or independently as in egress doors.
Consult manufacturer's instructions for the correct width and height of the rough opening you will frame.
If you have balloon framing, you will need to cut the studs to the height of the floor joists (that is, the bottom of the subflooring). It is probably more correct to refer to them as frames because the word jamb does indeed refer to only the upright pieces of a door or window frame.
Try to get a fixing from underneath, or if they are standard 820 doors, the fixing to the jambs should be enough with maybe a blob of liquid nails under the sill in the middle.
An average 70% of the grille size can be used in computing free area on doors with air condition grilles. In addition, handicap codes may dictate the location of the louver relative to the bottom of the door. Thresholds should be provided under the door and between the frame to allow for a smooth transition between floor coverings of different heights or materials.
For example, the performance of gasketing is observed during the fire test to ensure that flaming does not occur on the exposed surface of door assemblies. When these types of installations are required, there is a method in which this can be handled, efficiently and economically, through providing auxiliary reinforcing to standard door frames.
So wherever you see the term jamb take it as read that I am talking about the full frame on this page and other pages. Insert louvers intended for exterior doors or other doors where security is a consideration should have fasteners or materials specified accordingly. When louvers are installed, the detachable moldings should be located on the room or non-security side of the door. A simple test for gasket compression may be conducted by inserting a sheet of letterhead paper into the gap and closing the door. I figure that to hang the door I would need about a 4x2's thickness being 38mm minus a mm or so needed to straighten things out.
Where doors are manufactured as nonhanded, louvers may require reversing during door installation to suit actual handing. Information in catalogs published by BHMA members aid in the selection of perimeter sealing " systems" to meet the applicable performance criteria of the door assembly.
Architectural Specifications are to be consulted to determine the appropriate sealant material to be used at fire door or smoke control frames. In fire door applications it is VITAL that gasketing does not inhibit the ability of the door assembly to close and latch.