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29 Sep. 1979

Best spray finish for wood,woodworking vice parts,diy cat furniture instructions - Within Minutes

Aerosol cans of shellac, lacquer and polyurethane allow you to quickly apply a finish on small or complex projects that's free of brush marks. This is after waiting a couple hours for the spackling to dry and then sanding with the 600 grit shown above. I will finish sanding today and put on the second coat of paint so I will update again later on. These next couple of pictures were taken with my point and shoot instead of the SLR that was used previously so I apologize for the reduced image quality. Fine Woodworking had a review in the past year - didn't think much of the Wagner Turbine that is inexpensive and was written up as good in the Mr. I've decided to make a proper extensive tutorial on how to paint MDF to get that perfect mirror finish since my original worklog thread got so much interest and questions about how to paint.
For this project a 3M brand type block would have been fine, but for arcade sticks I recommend making one like this.
I do 2 coats at a time, then wait a few minutes for them to dry a little, then repeat until it's a fairly uniform coat.
The next steps will be to sand the second coat, apply clear, sand the clear, and buff to a mirror finish.
Like conventional spray guns, conversion guns atomize finish with air supplied by a compressor, and that air must be filtered of both water and oil to avoid contaminating the finish. To best atomize a finish, three spray-gun adjustments must be balanced: fluid flow (the amount of finish leaving the gun), airflow (the amount of air exiting the spray cap), and fan width (how broad or narrow a pattern the gun can spray). This will be a very complete guide and I hope to help all of you out there who struggle to get a great paintjob with spray paint and MDF. So you start off of the wood and then make a pass and don't let off the flow until you are off again.
You complete more work in less time; benefit from fast-drying finishes that are far less susceptible to nibs from settling dust, and consistently produce smooth results. As much as 80 percent of the finish that leaves a conventional spray gun bounces back off your workpiece, and winds up on every exposed surface, including the shop floor, walls, shelves, and tools. A powerful turbine can't compensate for a poorly performing gun, nor can the best gun effectively atomize finish with an anemic turbine, but a restrictive or easily crushed hose can render the whole system ineffective.
A too-stiff hose tends to steer the gun during spraying; a more flexible hose may not return to its original shape, restricting airflow.

And, as your spraying skills improve, you can use techniques like toning and shading (adding color between finish coats) that bring depth and sophistication to your finishes. HVLP sprayers, on the other hand, use a large volume of air at low pressure to break up, or atomize, the stream of finish leaving the nozzle into a fine mist. To put that demand into perspective, a 30-gallon compressor typically can power a lower CFM gun adequately, but it takes an 80-plus-gallon model to supply enough air for the hungriest guns. May graduate to a more expensive unit in the future, but for now it is my go to for finish work on my wood projects. This method greatly reduces finish bounce-back, saving you both money and time cleaning up. With this little block you can sand in the middle of the wood pieces of your case without hitting the edges until you want to. Other acceptable techniques to seal edges are to use wood sizing (a mixture of glue and water), wood filler, or bondo.
There are many things to use I just picked spackling randomly so it may not be the best solution.
You need wet sanding for that, but there's really no choice when working with the first coats of primer.
If you can find 1000 to go in between that and 2000 for the last sand that would be even better.
For reference I used about a whole sheet of sandpaper to do just that top part and the long side. After sanding for maybe 10-15 seconds you will notice that the paper starts to grab and doesn't glide very easily anymore. Click HERE to see a variety of Mike's finished products, both with color paint and clear finish over wood laminate.Support OurSPONSORSThe Art of Stock Painting by Mike RicklefsOver the last couple of years I have been asked a lot of questions about paint and prep work.
For this article, I started out with two previously painted Lee Six Hunter BR class stocks and a new Lee Six Borden-style stock. Paint in a well-ventilated area, and always follow manufacturers' safety guidelines for all products. It is best to remove all the parts you can.This raises an important point--if you have to make an major changes to the stock layout or inletting, do that BEFORE you lay down any primer or paint.
Likewise, any repairs or fiberglass work should be done before you hook up the paint sprayer.The white Hunter BR stock had a couple of layers of white paint on top of black primer.

Most of this remaining primer will come off as the parting lines and pin holes are filled and sanded.The Lee Six Borden-style stock shown above is the third project stock for this article. I didn't have to remove old paint, but I did want to fill seams and smooth out the small flaws in the finish. Looking at the photo below, in the smaller inset showing the underside of the stock, you can see the exit for the drop port. This will ensure even coverage for the finish coats.Here are all three stocks ready for priming. Once that has flashed off (dried) then the Intercoat clear is applied.Xotic also makes a variety of specialized base coats for Candy, Pearlescent, metal-flake, and color-shift (chameleon) effects. These special-effect base-coat paints are quite expensive, so it's smart to learn the right techniques before spraying your entire stock. A silver or gold base coat is often preferred for bright candy colors and metallic finishes. 5 ART EFFECTS -- Marble and TexturesOne very popular treatment for fiberglass stocks is a marble finish. You need a special "marblizer" paint for this and it requires you to physically "mold" the paint on to the stock. For this Hunter BR stock, which was going to be a gold over black marble, I selected House of Color's Gold-Blue Marblizer. This is a dual-color paint, meaning that over a black base it appears gold while over a white base it will be blue.House of Kolor Marblizer paint comes ready to spray with no mixing needed. But text and logos are special options I offer to my customers.)Above one of the Hunter BR stocks has been sprayed with a coat of the Marblizer, over the black base-coat. When the yellow masks are removed, the type remains black underneath.) 6 CLEAR COATING -- Gloss and ProtectionFor finishing both fiberglass and wood stocks, I prefer to use automotive clear-coat. The key to getting a mirror-like finish is using multiple, light coats, and allowing plenty of time to dry hard. When clear-coating a wood stock without a paint base, I will apply three (3) coats of final clear over five or six coats of heavier "build" clear.

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