09 Nov. 2010|
Best respirator for woodworking,wood carving tool sets sale,wood guitar amp stand plans - Reviews
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I’ve been in the shop for about two hours this morning and the first task I faced was clearing out a jammed dust-collection pipe above the jointer. So I had the mask on for about two hours straight (except for the few times I removed it to have a sip of Diet Coke). Typically, I’ll have at best a slight sore throat after a couple of hours in the shop with power tools (not to mention cleaning the dust-collection).
The ONE thing that I always hated about dust masks was that because they were small I suppose, it got pretty warm and humid inside the mask and hard for me to breathe causing me to take it off and do without. You can find the 3M masks on the net for less than $20 sometimes; regular net prices run in the mid twenties usually.
For giggles anyone using a respirator should do an actual fit self test, either negative, or positive to make sure they do have a good fit. It is latex and silicon free (not an issue for me, but I know some people experience reactions to those), low profile around the nose so it doesn’t obstruct vision, and it moulds to the contours of my face for a good seal with no leaks (I assume it will do the same to yours).
Filters range from cheap to fairly expensive if you are looking for acid vapor ones or the like. So it was a good test of the Elipse P100 Respirator I recently bought from Highland Woodworking ($30 plus shipping). For simple dust you may do best wearing a paper P 95 or P 100 mask, and using a handkerchief inside to fill the gap, and act as a dust baffle.
I will point out trying to do a positive test on a full face respirator with a re-breather cup (little mask inside of the big mask) is awful hard to do, so jump to the negative test.
A heavily bearded friend swears it helps him, me I’m dubious, but then I do fit testing for industry. All respirator manufacturers seem to design their masks so there is not enough of a pocket for air (oxygen) to be freely available.